Dual air holes for a single coil RM2

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Filthy-Beast

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Once I got my Cyclone with Airflow Control I discovered I really like more air. The RM2, even with the hole drilled to 1/16, had become way to restrictive. I drilled it to 5/64 and the air flow was better. With the 5/64 hole the wife and dogs where bothered by a whistle I cannot hear and it also has a tendency to dribble juice from such a large hole.

So I decided to give two smaller holes a try. They are each drilled to 3/64 and position so they are at the ends of my coil. No more whistle or big dribble issue and I netted a little more air flow than the 5/64 hole. I like this setup a lot and will be getting a few spare tops to fix my other RM2s.


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sbmqcy

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Where are you getting spare caps? Empire mods for the rm2 precursor, or from Rob?

I've got two rm2s, but I can't interchange the caps--the same post wasn't removed for the squonk hole on both, so the caps only line up right on their bases. I could use an oring spacer, but I'm not thrilled with the idea. If I can get some cheap caps, I'd play around more with airhole sizing.


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Filthy-Beast

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Filthy-Beast

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On a side bar has anyone made the air hole higher than the placement of the stock air hole? I'm not much of a TH kinda guy this thread made me think a bigger air hole higher up might give even less TH.
I have not, but a new cap will run you 7 - 10 bucks and being plated brass is pretty easy to drill. Might be worth the experiment.
 

sbmqcy

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You can get the cap either from Rob or With the Triangle atty. I'd check that they were both put back together correctly. Look at this thread, there are two threaded holes in the base of the RM2, it looks like the ceramic cup and negative post could be shifted by threading into the other hole.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2-full-atomizer-itself-rebuild-pic-heavy.html

After reading that, I'm not quite sure how to rearrange the airhole. Would I be able to just remove the one post and re thread it into the other hole, or do I need to do a complete rebuild?


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Filthy-Beast

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When you remove the negative post the ceramic cup can spin in the base, so you could slight spin the base and see if the post will line up with the other threaded hole in the base. This is the easiest option.

When I look at the photos in that linked thread you'll notice that the ceramic cup is cut on the bottom to allow juice to flow to the open hole. If you pull the center pin out from the 510 connector then you can pull the ceramic cup and check it's bottom to see which hole is cut for juice flow. You could also use a diamond bit in a dremel to cut a channel for the other hole and move the post over.
 

Paul.K

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Filthy-Beast

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