I have a billow v2 tank and a IPV3 LI which is a tc mod. I bought some 24g ni200 from my local vape shop which the guy recommend, he said I could do 2 coils @ 7 wraps and would be in a .4 ohm ballpark
Your LI is good down to 0.05 in TC mode, so with a 2.5mm coil you'd need 19 wraps on each coil using 24g Ni200. That would never fit inside a Billow, and even if you had a dripper you could fit it in, and used all 100 TC joules of your IPV, you'd have a cold vape with a ramp up time almost measured in minutes. Long story short, that vape shop guy is clueless, and I have to wonder why they even STOCK 24 gauge Ni200. Did I mention your vape shop guy is an idiot?
Even with 28g ni200 I still would need 80 wraps.
But you're not shooting for 0.4 with Ni200, you're shooting for something above the mod's low limit of 0.05. With 28g Ni200, you'd only need 8 2.5mm wraps per coil to hit that. 10 wraps would be better, putting you at 0.06 ohms and giving you more margin for error, but that will be a problem on that cramped, awful-for-temp-control-builds center-post Billow deck.
Why is it that I can change my setting to ni200 on my mod and use kanthal in the tank and vape at 420º ?
Because you're not vaping at 420f. You're just throwing whatever joules you've selected at that Kanthal coil, and it keeps throwing all those joules because no matter how many joules you throw at that Kanthal coil the resistance won't climb much, so the mod never cuts power, because as far as its concerned, it's never reached your set temperature. It'll keep throwing power to that coil even after the cotton has went bone dry and burned to ash, because the resistance barely changes. That flat resistance across temp ranges is why nobody uses Kanthal coils for temp control.
