I believe you are correct. FS cut of is a European standard. My eGos go about 8 seconds.As I understand it, there is no 5 second cutoff on an Ego or Riva.
I believe you are correct. FS cut of is a European standard. My eGos go about 8 seconds.As I understand it, there is no 5 second cutoff on an Ego or Riva.
You may have damaged your battery's protection circuits and after that it may start not holding charge as well or may even be dangerous to charge. The dual coil should never have been put on a slim battery. Slim batteries should be using things that are 2.5 to 3 ohms single coils (a 2.5 ohm dual coil won't work either because it's 2 5 ohm coils and works on high voltage mods.)
In general, anything under 2.5 ohms belongs on a fat battery model or mods. And even the mass manufactured fat battery models (Ego etc) are occasionally damaged by 1.5ohms. Some people will only go that low on mods.
If you want something with a big battery and 901 connection (901 connection with work with KR808D-1 cartos only IF the socket provides appropriate airflow for KR808D-1. In general I think the threaded end of the battery to have a slotted post to let air in?). You are also used to using 3.7v so you probably don't want a 3.4v big battery. Ones you can research (as to how well they work with KR808D-1 cartos and what their real voltage is) are the Kanger Vgo version that is KR808D-1 threaded (there is also a 510-threaded version), Igo, the Riva 901's at Liberty-Flights.com (I believe they have a slotted post but don't know if they are 3.7v), the CigEasy Elegant Easy. And any of these would need that own charger which will put of more mA and is not to be used to charge slim KR8 batteries.
Read about the KR808D-1 threaded Vgo version here
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ger-vgo-650-kit-kr808-little-fat-battery.html
Alternately you can get a more flexible 510-threaded 3.7v model like the Riva 510 kits at Liberty-Flights.com (their kits are 3.7v because they are new stock from the one Riva manufacturer who now makes the 3.7v ones). The Kgos may also me 3.7v. Or get a 3.7v mod. You can use a 510 to 808 adapter to put KR808D-1 cartos on them and can also use 510-threaded stuff on them. With Riva or Kgo or small battery mods, 1.5 ohms may still be pushing the edge a bit. Some recommend large battery mods (like ones that use 18350 or 18650) for 1.5 ohm vaping.
lots of info thanks, bit why would I want 3.7 v, when all I see is all the hype of 5volt? I've already dabled in 5v, with my direct pass-thru and 2amp.adapters, and I really feel 5v is the way to go, I think I should go all the way, why dilly rally? Where can I get the strongest, best for my duals?
That's what I was thinking, why bother with 3.7v, 5is the way to go, right?Absent as usual from these suggestions are good variable voltage or 5 volt models which tend to have higher mAh batteries that will not only provide warmer vapor and long battery life, but will work well with dual coil cartos. I would suggest you look at the 5 volt GLV2 or the variable wattage Darwin.
If someone wants to go towards higher voltage, it's worth looking at the notcigs infinity pro vv. it runs 3.5 - 5.5v, up to 15w total power (1.5 ohm dual coil at 4.7v), solid, good run time between charges, good voltage regulation (no sag as the battery voltage drops).
The single voltage pv are of course also good, it just depends on what a person wants.
I think, the suggestion to switch to high voltage battery is not the solution of the described problem. Moreover, the higher the voltage, the higher the amperage, the faster the drain. Of course, voltage matters but in opposite direction. The lower the voltage the longer battery lasts with the same cartomizer. I think what caused this misunderstanding is the fact that VV mods usually have very high capacity batteries. So the advice to switch to high voltage in fact means to switch to high capacity batteries. You need at least 800mAh - 1000mAh but 3.7-4.2V.
You may have damaged your battery's protection circuits and after that it may start not holding charge as well or may even be dangerous to charge. The dual coil should never have been put on a slim battery. Slim batteries should be using things that are 2.5 to 3 ohms single coils (a 2.5 ohm dual coil won't work either because it's 2 5 ohm coils and works on high voltage mods.)
In general, anything under 2.5 ohms belongs on a fat battery model or mods. And even the mass manufactured fat battery models (Ego etc) are occasionally damaged by 1.5ohms. Some people will only go that low on mods.
If you want something with a big battery and 901 connection (901 connection with work with KR808D-1 cartos only IF the socket provides appropriate airflow for KR808D-1. In general I think the threaded end of the battery to have a slotted post to let air in?). You are also used to using 3.7v so you probably don't want a 3.4v big battery. Ones you can research (as to how well they work with KR808D-1 cartos and what their real voltage is) are the Kanger Vgo version that is KR808D-1 threaded (there is also a 510-threaded version), Igo, the Riva 901's at Liberty-Flights.com (I believe they have a slotted post but don't know if they are 3.7v), the CigEasy Elegant Easy. And any of these would need that own charger which will put of more mA and is not to be used to charge slim KR8 batteries.
Read about the KR808D-1 threaded Vgo version here
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ger-vgo-650-kit-kr808-little-fat-battery.html
Alternately you can get a more flexible 510-threaded 3.7v model like the Riva 510 kits at Liberty-Flights.com (their kits are 3.7v because they are new stock from the one Riva manufacturer who now makes the 3.7v ones). The Kgos may also me 3.7v. Or get a 3.7v mod. You can use a 510 to 808 adapter to put KR808D-1 cartos on them and can also use 510-threaded stuff on them. With Riva or Kgo or small battery mods, 1.5 ohms may still be pushing the edge a bit. Some recommend large battery mods (like ones that use 18350 or 18650) for 1.5 ohm vaping.
lots of info thanks, bit why would I want 3.7 v, when all I see is all the hype of 5volt? I've already dabled in 5v, with my direct pass-thru and 2amp.adapters, and I really feel 5v is the way to go, I think I should go all the way, why dilly rally? Where can I get the strongest, best for my duals?
I think, the suggestion to switch to high voltage battery is not the solution of the described problem. Moreover, the higher the voltage, the higher the amperage, the faster the drain. Of course, voltage matters but in opposite direction. The lower the voltage the longer battery lasts with the same cartomizer. I think what caused this misunderstanding is the fact that VV mods usually have very high capacity batteries. So the advice to switch to high voltage in fact means to switch to high capacity batteries. You need at least 800mAh - 1000mAh but 3.7-4.2V.
So, having now read the rest of this thread...
If you don't want any more dilly dallying and are ready to jump in the deep end, as I think you said, you might want to look into a variable voltage device, as others have suggested.
Starting off is something like the vv box mod from madvapes. ~$18 in kit form. ~$35 assembled. vv box mods from kens box mods, foxy box mods, krimson Kustom box mods, etc. I don't actually own any of those, but have heard good things about them all.
Then you have variable voltage tube mods. The lava tube can be had for $70 from volcano, for just the mod. Notcigs makes great variable voltage tube mods, the Infinity Pro and the Buzz Pro. That's the $100 - $140 range.
Then there's the Provari and Darwin. Pretty much king of the hill, for vv mods. The darwin is actually a variable wattage mod, not variable voltage, but the end result is similar. Provari's start at $160 and go up from there. A darwin will set you back $250.
All except the darwin will also require the purchase of batts and a charger, so that adds to the cost. The darwin has an internal battery that isn't user replacable. You have to plug the pv in to the wall to charge it. All the others, you can buy extra batts for, and keep some one the charger and replace as necessary.
Of course, all this is assuming that you don't want to dilly dally around, and are ready to jump in to the deep end. I'd recommend LOTS of research and reading and questions here. It's a big jump I've found. But a very enjoyable one
Maximillian the Mostly Mischievious
I think, the suggestion to switch to high voltage battery is not the solution of the described problem. Moreover, the higher the voltage, the higher the amperage, the faster the drain. Of course, voltage matters but in opposite direction. The lower the voltage the longer battery lasts with the same cartomizer. I think what caused this misunderstanding is the fact that VV mods usually have very high capacity batteries. So the advice to switch to high voltage in fact means to switch to high capacity batteries. You need at least 800mAh - 1000mAh but 3.7-4.2V.
Thank you for clarification! I just ordered (From Madvapes), a 3.7v 2*AA mod (pre-fab), holds one 14500 (900mAh) batt, but I ordered two and a charger for the batts. I spent a total of $40! Did I do good?