dual coils & battery drain, help please

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deweylasv

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Jul 18, 2011
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You may have damaged your battery's protection circuits and after that it may start not holding charge as well or may even be dangerous to charge. The dual coil should never have been put on a slim battery. Slim batteries should be using things that are 2.5 to 3 ohms single coils (a 2.5 ohm dual coil won't work either because it's 2 5 ohm coils and works on high voltage mods.)

In general, anything under 2.5 ohms belongs on a fat battery model or mods. And even the mass manufactured fat battery models (Ego etc) are occasionally damaged by 1.5ohms. Some people will only go that low on mods.

If you want something with a big battery and 901 connection (901 connection with work with KR808D-1 cartos only IF the socket provides appropriate airflow for KR808D-1. In general I think the threaded end of the battery to have a slotted post to let air in?). You are also used to using 3.7v so you probably don't want a 3.4v big battery. Ones you can research (as to how well they work with KR808D-1 cartos and what their real voltage is) are the Kanger Vgo version that is KR808D-1 threaded (there is also a 510-threaded version), Igo, the Riva 901's at Liberty-Flights.com (I believe they have a slotted post but don't know if they are 3.7v), the CigEasy Elegant Easy. And any of these would need that own charger which will put of more mA and is not to be used to charge slim KR8 batteries.
Read about the KR808D-1 threaded Vgo version here
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ger-vgo-650-kit-kr808-little-fat-battery.html

Alternately you can get a more flexible 510-threaded 3.7v model like the Riva 510 kits at Liberty-Flights.com (their kits are 3.7v because they are new stock from the one Riva manufacturer who now makes the 3.7v ones). The Kgos may also me 3.7v. Or get a 3.7v mod. You can use a 510 to 808 adapter to put KR808D-1 cartos on them and can also use 510-threaded stuff on them. With Riva or Kgo or small battery mods, 1.5 ohms may still be pushing the edge a bit. Some recommend large battery mods (like ones that use 18350 or 18650) for 1.5 ohm vaping.

lots of info thanks, bit why would I want 3.7 v, when all I see is all the hype of 5volt? I've already dabled in 5v, with my direct pass-thru and 2amp.adapters, and I really feel 5v is the way to go, I think I should go all the way, why dilly rally? Where can I get the strongest, best for my duals?
 

throatkick

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Dec 20, 2010
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lots of info thanks, bit why would I want 3.7 v, when all I see is all the hype of 5volt? I've already dabled in 5v, with my direct pass-thru and 2amp.adapters, and I really feel 5v is the way to go, I think I should go all the way, why dilly rally? Where can I get the strongest, best for my duals?

No doubt about it.

The preceding message contains extremely high levels of subjectivity :)
 

deweylasv

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Jul 18, 2011
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Absent as usual from these suggestions are good variable voltage or 5 volt models which tend to have higher mAh batteries that will not only provide warmer vapor and long battery life, but will work well with dual coil cartos. I would suggest you look at the 5 volt GLV2 or the variable wattage Darwin.
That's what I was thinking, why bother with 3.7v, 5is the way to go, right?
I looked at your suggestion, but What about a simple mod, like at Madvapes, 5vmod kit, $35. One things for sure, the GLV is a tank, looks awsome, looks unbreakable!
 

markfm

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If someone wants to go towards higher voltage, it's worth looking at the notcigs infinity pro vv. it runs 3.5 - 5.5v, up to 15w total power (1.5 ohm dual coil at 4.7v), solid, good run time between charges, good voltage regulation (no sag as the battery voltage drops).

The single voltage pv are of course also good, it just depends on what a person wants.
 

sandybeach

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If someone wants to go towards higher voltage, it's worth looking at the notcigs infinity pro vv. it runs 3.5 - 5.5v, up to 15w total power (1.5 ohm dual coil at 4.7v), solid, good run time between charges, good voltage regulation (no sag as the battery voltage drops).

The single voltage pv are of course also good, it just depends on what a person wants.

The Infinity Buzz Pro ;)
 

Antoly

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Mar 26, 2011
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I think, the suggestion to switch to high voltage battery is not the solution of the described problem. Moreover, the higher the voltage, the higher the amperage, the faster the drain. Of course, voltage matters but in opposite direction. The lower the voltage the longer battery lasts with the same cartomizer. I think what caused this misunderstanding is the fact that VV mods usually have very high capacity batteries. So the advice to switch to high voltage in fact means to switch to high capacity batteries. You need at least 800mAh - 1000mAh but 3.7-4.2V.
 

wv2win

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Feb 10, 2009
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I think, the suggestion to switch to high voltage battery is not the solution of the described problem. Moreover, the higher the voltage, the higher the amperage, the faster the drain. Of course, voltage matters but in opposite direction. The lower the voltage the longer battery lasts with the same cartomizer. I think what caused this misunderstanding is the fact that VV mods usually have very high capacity batteries. So the advice to switch to high voltage in fact means to switch to high capacity batteries. You need at least 800mAh - 1000mAh but 3.7-4.2V.

If the person enjoys the consistency, warmer vapor along with good battery life of a good 5 volt or variable volt model, that is the exact direction to go in. Many of us have vaped multiple models at all levels and find that 5 volt and variable volt models provide a more consistent and nice vape. Both my 5 volt and variable volt models last significantly longer than any 3.7 volt model.
 

wv2win

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Feb 10, 2009
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You may have damaged your battery's protection circuits and after that it may start not holding charge as well or may even be dangerous to charge. The dual coil should never have been put on a slim battery. Slim batteries should be using things that are 2.5 to 3 ohms single coils (a 2.5 ohm dual coil won't work either because it's 2 5 ohm coils and works on high voltage mods.)

In general, anything under 2.5 ohms belongs on a fat battery model or mods. And even the mass manufactured fat battery models (Ego etc) are occasionally damaged by 1.5ohms. Some people will only go that low on mods.

If you want something with a big battery and 901 connection (901 connection with work with KR808D-1 cartos only IF the socket provides appropriate airflow for KR808D-1. In general I think the threaded end of the battery to have a slotted post to let air in?). You are also used to using 3.7v so you probably don't want a 3.4v big battery. Ones you can research (as to how well they work with KR808D-1 cartos and what their real voltage is) are the Kanger Vgo version that is KR808D-1 threaded (there is also a 510-threaded version), Igo, the Riva 901's at Liberty-Flights.com (I believe they have a slotted post but don't know if they are 3.7v), the CigEasy Elegant Easy. And any of these would need that own charger which will put of more mA and is not to be used to charge slim KR8 batteries.
Read about the KR808D-1 threaded Vgo version here
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ger-vgo-650-kit-kr808-little-fat-battery.html

Alternately you can get a more flexible 510-threaded 3.7v model like the Riva 510 kits at Liberty-Flights.com (their kits are 3.7v because they are new stock from the one Riva manufacturer who now makes the 3.7v ones). The Kgos may also me 3.7v. Or get a 3.7v mod. You can use a 510 to 808 adapter to put KR808D-1 cartos on them and can also use 510-threaded stuff on them. With Riva or Kgo or small battery mods, 1.5 ohms may still be pushing the edge a bit. Some recommend large battery mods (like ones that use 18350 or 18650) for 1.5 ohm vaping.

lots of info thanks, bit why would I want 3.7 v, when all I see is all the hype of 5volt? I've already dabled in 5v, with my direct pass-thru and 2amp.adapters, and I really feel 5v is the way to go, I think I should go all the way, why dilly rally? Where can I get the strongest, best for my duals?

You are right deweylasv. Some frequest posters, based on their advice, do not believe anyone should ever vape above 3.7 volts, simply because they never have and don't think anyone else needs to.

The 5 volt GLV2 comes with a lifetime warranty and is built to last. It has a legion of well satisfied customers. The Darwin with it's 1800 mAh battery and regulated boost circuit technology provides the best battery life and consistency of any of the many models I have used.
 

tj99959

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    Simply put you cannot power a Mac truck with a VW engine, it requires a larger displacement power supply.

    3.7v, 4.5v, 5v or 6v is completely subjective, and dependent on an individuals taste, but the bats capacity is not. 650mAh is the absolute minimum that I would want to put a DCC on, and even then there would probably be a need to carry a charger around for it.

    As a side note, my super expensive PT ($10.00) has built in protection ckts, and won't even fire a LR DCC, but for me personally, a 3ohm single coil @5v is a better vape anyway. Again, just personal taste.

    For me personally anything above about 8watts burn off my ability to taste. It's not the juice it's burning, it's my taste buds. And, that is where the individuality comes into play.
     
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    Maximillian

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    Sep 28, 2011
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    Heyas deweylasv,

    If you like the 1.6Ω dcc's at 3.7v, you probably do want to upgrade your gear. At the least, look into a fat batt pv. If you're set on using 808D dcc's, I can suggest a few options, most of which I haven't actually tried myself, but think would work.

    First off, liberty flights sells riva 901 kits and batts, which I'm pretty sure should work with 808d cartos. Riva's are fat batt ego clones that have a good reputation here.

    Second, you can buy an 808D to 510 adapter from Madvapes or elsewhere, and then use the huge variety of 510 connector batts and devices that are out there.

    Third, you could get an ego/riva/kgo whatever 510 kit or batts, and some 510 dcc's.

    Forth, you can get into mods, where pretty much anything is possible, and the sky is the limit on cost :p

    But, using those dcc's on your slim batts (I assume they're slim batts at 380mah), will drain the batts fast, and probably shorten the life of the batt, from what I've been told here. I should say that I don't have any direct experience with that setup.

    Of course, this is all assuming that you are dead set on dcc's at 3.7v :p

    Just my :2c:

    :D

    Maximillian the Vaguely Disreputable

    Edit: lol. I read the first page of this thread, and then replied without reading the next 3 pages. Sorry. Most everything in my reply was already covered.
     
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    Maximillian

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    So, having now read the rest of this thread... :p

    If you don't want any more dilly dallying and are ready to jump in the deep end, as I think you said, you might want to look into a variable voltage device, as others have suggested.

    Starting off is something like the vv box mod from madvapes. ~$18 in kit form. ~$35 assembled. vv box mods from kens box mods, foxy box mods, krimson Kustom box mods, etc. I don't actually own any of those, but have heard good things about them all.

    Then you have variable voltage tube mods. The lava tube can be had for $70 from volcano, for just the mod. Notcigs makes great variable voltage tube mods, the Infinity Pro and the Buzz Pro. That's the $100 - $140 range.

    Then there's the Provari and Darwin. Pretty much king of the hill, for vv mods. The darwin is actually a variable wattage mod, not variable voltage, but the end result is similar. Provari's start at $160 and go up from there. A darwin will set you back $250.

    All except the darwin will also require the purchase of batts and a charger, so that adds to the cost. The darwin has an internal battery that isn't user replacable. You have to plug the pv in to the wall to charge it. All the others, you can buy extra batts for, and keep some one the charger and replace as necessary.

    Of course, all this is assuming that you don't want to dilly dally around, and are ready to jump in to the deep end. I'd recommend LOTS of research and reading and questions here. It's a big jump I've found. But a very enjoyable one :)

    :D

    Maximillian the Mostly Mischievious
     

    deweylasv

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    Jul 18, 2011
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    I think, the suggestion to switch to high voltage battery is not the solution of the described problem. Moreover, the higher the voltage, the higher the amperage, the faster the drain. Of course, voltage matters but in opposite direction. The lower the voltage the longer battery lasts with the same cartomizer. I think what caused this misunderstanding is the fact that VV mods usually have very high capacity batteries. So the advice to switch to high voltage in fact means to switch to high capacity batteries. You need at least 800mAh - 1000mAh but 3.7-4.2V.

    thank you for clarification! I just ordered a 3.7v 2*AA mod (pre-fab), holds one 14500 (900mAh) batt, but I ordered two and a charger for the batts. Did I do good?
     

    deweylasv

    Full Member
    Jul 18, 2011
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    So, having now read the rest of this thread... :p

    If you don't want any more dilly dallying and are ready to jump in the deep end, as I think you said, you might want to look into a variable voltage device, as others have suggested.

    Starting off is something like the vv box mod from madvapes. ~$18 in kit form. ~$35 assembled. vv box mods from kens box mods, foxy box mods, krimson Kustom box mods, etc. I don't actually own any of those, but have heard good things about them all.

    Then you have variable voltage tube mods. The lava tube can be had for $70 from volcano, for just the mod. Notcigs makes great variable voltage tube mods, the Infinity Pro and the Buzz Pro. That's the $100 - $140 range.

    Then there's the Provari and Darwin. Pretty much king of the hill, for vv mods. The darwin is actually a variable wattage mod, not variable voltage, but the end result is similar. Provari's start at $160 and go up from there. A darwin will set you back $250.

    All except the darwin will also require the purchase of batts and a charger, so that adds to the cost. The darwin has an internal battery that isn't user replacable. You have to plug the pv in to the wall to charge it. All the others, you can buy extra batts for, and keep some one the charger and replace as necessary.

    Of course, all this is assuming that you don't want to dilly dally around, and are ready to jump in to the deep end. I'd recommend LOTS of research and reading and questions here. It's a big jump I've found. But a very enjoyable one :)

    :D

    Maximillian the Mostly Mischievious

    I think, the suggestion to switch to high voltage battery is not the solution of the described problem. Moreover, the higher the voltage, the higher the amperage, the faster the drain. Of course, voltage matters but in opposite direction. The lower the voltage the longer battery lasts with the same cartomizer. I think what caused this misunderstanding is the fact that VV mods usually have very high capacity batteries. So the advice to switch to high voltage in fact means to switch to high capacity batteries. You need at least 800mAh - 1000mAh but 3.7-4.2V.

    Thank you for clarification! I just ordered (From Madvapes), a 3.7v 2*AA mod (pre-fab), holds one 14500 (900mAh) batt, but I ordered two and a charger for the batts. I spent a total of $40! Did I do good?
     

    madjack

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    Aug 17, 2011
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    Thank you for clarification! I just ordered (From Madvapes), a 3.7v 2*AA mod (pre-fab), holds one 14500 (900mAh) batt, but I ordered two and a charger for the batts. I spent a total of $40! Did I do good?

    ...yep, good enough...MV also sells inexpensive 5v and VV boxmods for when you are ready to try them as well........
    madjack:2cool:
     
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