Hello all,
back with the latest Connman mod hot off the soldering iron.
It uses the 16340 batteries in parallel and gives you a 3.7 volt vape or a Boosted 5 Volt.
I do have to give a big thanks to theECB from this link in making a similar mod a ways back in time.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/94421-my-newest-dual-voltage-3-7v-5v-box-mod.html
And to Sci for all the great booster info he has shown us at.
Need info on the booster boards and caps check this thread out.
http://forum.vapegate.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=65
And my sister for getting all the parts she has.
The Project box can be found at Madvapes here.
http://www.madvapes.com/Project-Box-319-x-157-x-79_p_2361.html
You will also need two of these boxes for cutting up and parts.
Black 2xAA Battery Box with On/Off Switch
A vape switch
Horn style switch -- Black
510 connector already wired at this link
Prewired 510 Battery Connector, Sealed
and a LED and resistor
LEDS and Indicators
I actually used The PTN04050C from Texas Instruments for the booster.
The Caps on the booster are these.
Dip Tantalum 100uf 100 uf 20v 10% Capacitor
Here is a ebay link to them. Although these are 20v you can get and use 10v ones on ebay as well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dip-Tantalum-100uf- ... 2eb468237f
Here is a album with all the pictures that also have the direction can be found here
http://s809.photobucket.com/albums/zz17/_Connman_/E-cig%20Mod%20Pictures/Project%20Box%20%20Dual%20Voltage%20Mod/
And on with the how`s and possibly the why`s
In this picture you will see me sizing where the batteries will be to Dremel the project box to get more depth for the batteries. The 16340`s are just a tad thick.
Here you can see what the Lid will shut like if you do not make the batteries fit better.
In this picture you can see where I Dremeled the bottom of the box for the batteries also that I cut the hole for the main on off switch as well. The next picture will give you an idea on how I come up with where the hole should be for that.
In this step you need a 2 X AA battery box and cut it up to have the battery post mounts and all as the pieces you will need.
On the end where the main switch isn`t will come out looking like a T the right side of the T is the positive battery mount. Now you need to remove the spring off the other side a solder the other battery positive post to where the spring was. You want it flat just like the other positive battery post, nice and smooth.
You will need to replace the switch sides positive battery post out with a spring for negative. I used a 2nd 2 X AA battery box for this post. You will also need to solder a wire from that to the other negative battery post or where the wire from it runs to the center post of the main on/off switch.
You need to have a negative wire soldered to one of the outside post on the on/off switch as well. It should be long enough to reach past the end of the box once installed. Say 3" roughly.
Now before you attach the on/off switch back to where it goes you can use the hole in the housing to find where you will need to drill the project box.
In this step I needed to make it easier to slide the on/off switch since the project box is just as thick as the switch nub. This acts like a safety for accidental bumping the switch to on if you like safety.
So I beveled the area out some around the cut slot the switch sticks in and that makes it nice and easy to slide it with a finger now.
Once you are happy with the previous step you can now install the switch and negative side of the battery contacts into the project box. It should go in nice and straight and the contact should be against the project boxes screw mount. Room you will need for the opposite end of the box later. You may even hold off on permanently installing this till you can see what is needed as in space later.
Here you can see where I installed the positive battery post T You might need to cut the T down some on the bottom part of the T to shorten the distance for the 16340 batteries. When I installed this piece I squeezed the batteries in place as the super glue set up. You need as much space as possible for the remainder of the project once again.
I also decided to go pretty much dead center with the battery/atty connection and drilled the hole there.
This caused me to have to place the 5/3.7 volt switch next to the projects box screw mount. I also cut around one quarter the screw mount away to give me a little more clearance between the atty connector.
I also found the only area left for the Horn style switch to fit was the right side of the project box. It`s all fitting in there pretty tight and close to each other once this project finishes up. So again eyeball the areas with the other pieces to see just what works best here.
After this step the mod works at 3.7 volt for those needing a vape right away.
So here is a run down on what wire goes where for those that can`t understand my picture.
Negative battery wire will be shortened to around half of the empty spot past the positive battery post and the end of the box. The ground wire off your battery atty connector will then be soldered to it now when this goes 5 volt this solder spot of these two wires will attach to the booster negative feed.
The positive off the battery contacts need to be attached to either of the outside post that you may want to be the 3.7 volt side of the 5/3.7 selector switch.
Now a positive needs to run from the center pin on the 5/3.7 selector volt switch to the Main Vape Switch.. The other tab on the main vape switch will run to the center pin on the atty connector.
This should give you a working 3.7 volt mod now.
Thanks to Sci for this picture of how to wire a booster board with Caps. Thanks Sci.
The negative wire is in the box already so don`t worry on it but attach some Positive wires to the booster board as Sci has shown.
Ok now once you have the caps installed on the booster board and the positive in wire attached along with the positive out wire.
Lets set this baby in it`s new home.
You can start by soldering the negative to the negative in on the booster board. It should be where we joined the two negative wires together in the box already. Attach that to the booster board.
The positive out which will be the one out on the end of the booster with the empty pin will attach to the 5/3.7 volt selector switch. Attach to the open pin on it. That will complete the selector switch.
Now the Positive in wire will attach to the main positive battery post.
Now if you want a LED you could install it now although it was the last thing I installed. The positive leg to resistor then attach to the vape horn style switch post that runs to the center pin of the atty connector. The negative needs to attach to the outside of the atty connector or a ground wire.
Now just to stick the booster board in and be sure nothing is touching. JB weld every thing to help keep it in place. This should be it.
Working 5/3.7 volt mod with Blue LED.
Thanks for viewing hope you enjoyed.
back with the latest Connman mod hot off the soldering iron.
It uses the 16340 batteries in parallel and gives you a 3.7 volt vape or a Boosted 5 Volt.
I do have to give a big thanks to theECB from this link in making a similar mod a ways back in time.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/94421-my-newest-dual-voltage-3-7v-5v-box-mod.html
And to Sci for all the great booster info he has shown us at.
Need info on the booster boards and caps check this thread out.
http://forum.vapegate.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=65
And my sister for getting all the parts she has.
The Project box can be found at Madvapes here.
http://www.madvapes.com/Project-Box-319-x-157-x-79_p_2361.html
You will also need two of these boxes for cutting up and parts.
Black 2xAA Battery Box with On/Off Switch
A vape switch
Horn style switch -- Black
510 connector already wired at this link
Prewired 510 Battery Connector, Sealed
and a LED and resistor
LEDS and Indicators
I actually used The PTN04050C from Texas Instruments for the booster.
The Caps on the booster are these.
Dip Tantalum 100uf 100 uf 20v 10% Capacitor
Here is a ebay link to them. Although these are 20v you can get and use 10v ones on ebay as well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dip-Tantalum-100uf- ... 2eb468237f
Here is a album with all the pictures that also have the direction can be found here
http://s809.photobucket.com/albums/zz17/_Connman_/E-cig%20Mod%20Pictures/Project%20Box%20%20Dual%20Voltage%20Mod/
And on with the how`s and possibly the why`s
In this picture you will see me sizing where the batteries will be to Dremel the project box to get more depth for the batteries. The 16340`s are just a tad thick.
Here you can see what the Lid will shut like if you do not make the batteries fit better.
In this picture you can see where I Dremeled the bottom of the box for the batteries also that I cut the hole for the main on off switch as well. The next picture will give you an idea on how I come up with where the hole should be for that.
In this step you need a 2 X AA battery box and cut it up to have the battery post mounts and all as the pieces you will need.
On the end where the main switch isn`t will come out looking like a T the right side of the T is the positive battery mount. Now you need to remove the spring off the other side a solder the other battery positive post to where the spring was. You want it flat just like the other positive battery post, nice and smooth.
You will need to replace the switch sides positive battery post out with a spring for negative. I used a 2nd 2 X AA battery box for this post. You will also need to solder a wire from that to the other negative battery post or where the wire from it runs to the center post of the main on/off switch.
You need to have a negative wire soldered to one of the outside post on the on/off switch as well. It should be long enough to reach past the end of the box once installed. Say 3" roughly.
Now before you attach the on/off switch back to where it goes you can use the hole in the housing to find where you will need to drill the project box.
In this step I needed to make it easier to slide the on/off switch since the project box is just as thick as the switch nub. This acts like a safety for accidental bumping the switch to on if you like safety.
So I beveled the area out some around the cut slot the switch sticks in and that makes it nice and easy to slide it with a finger now.
Once you are happy with the previous step you can now install the switch and negative side of the battery contacts into the project box. It should go in nice and straight and the contact should be against the project boxes screw mount. Room you will need for the opposite end of the box later. You may even hold off on permanently installing this till you can see what is needed as in space later.
Here you can see where I installed the positive battery post T You might need to cut the T down some on the bottom part of the T to shorten the distance for the 16340 batteries. When I installed this piece I squeezed the batteries in place as the super glue set up. You need as much space as possible for the remainder of the project once again.
I also decided to go pretty much dead center with the battery/atty connection and drilled the hole there.
This caused me to have to place the 5/3.7 volt switch next to the projects box screw mount. I also cut around one quarter the screw mount away to give me a little more clearance between the atty connector.
I also found the only area left for the Horn style switch to fit was the right side of the project box. It`s all fitting in there pretty tight and close to each other once this project finishes up. So again eyeball the areas with the other pieces to see just what works best here.
After this step the mod works at 3.7 volt for those needing a vape right away.
So here is a run down on what wire goes where for those that can`t understand my picture.
Negative battery wire will be shortened to around half of the empty spot past the positive battery post and the end of the box. The ground wire off your battery atty connector will then be soldered to it now when this goes 5 volt this solder spot of these two wires will attach to the booster negative feed.
The positive off the battery contacts need to be attached to either of the outside post that you may want to be the 3.7 volt side of the 5/3.7 selector switch.
Now a positive needs to run from the center pin on the 5/3.7 selector volt switch to the Main Vape Switch.. The other tab on the main vape switch will run to the center pin on the atty connector.
This should give you a working 3.7 volt mod now.
Thanks to Sci for this picture of how to wire a booster board with Caps. Thanks Sci.
The negative wire is in the box already so don`t worry on it but attach some Positive wires to the booster board as Sci has shown.
Ok now once you have the caps installed on the booster board and the positive in wire attached along with the positive out wire.
Lets set this baby in it`s new home.
You can start by soldering the negative to the negative in on the booster board. It should be where we joined the two negative wires together in the box already. Attach that to the booster board.
The positive out which will be the one out on the end of the booster with the empty pin will attach to the 5/3.7 volt selector switch. Attach to the open pin on it. That will complete the selector switch.
Now the Positive in wire will attach to the main positive battery post.
Now if you want a LED you could install it now although it was the last thing I installed. The positive leg to resistor then attach to the vape horn style switch post that runs to the center pin of the atty connector. The negative needs to attach to the outside of the atty connector or a ground wire.
Now just to stick the booster board in and be sure nothing is touching. JB weld every thing to help keep it in place. This should be it.
Working 5/3.7 volt mod with Blue LED.
Thanks for viewing hope you enjoyed.
