Dul Micro Coil 1.0 ohm slow heat litter vapor

[Jamok23]

Hey guys, im hoping i can get some help. i recently purchased a Fogger V4 and along with it, i bought some micro coils to get me started whilst i attempt to make my own. The coil i bought are 5mm 26awg 1.0hm coils and i have them in dual config. I believe that these coils are the problem, but im not 100%% sure. i am running the fogger on the nemesis mod, with an 18350 battery. Fully charged, the coils take anywhere from 5-10 seconds to heat up enough to produce vapor, and even at that, its VERY little vapor production. Does anyone know if the coils are the problem, or if its something else.

Thank you for any and all help.

 

[93gc40]

You are pretty close to beyond the capacity of that 18350 battery most likely.

Thats alot of watts and amps for those little things. 27 watts at 7.5amp for 3.7volt, sound like allot dont it. Gives a coolish heat flux of about 120 heat capacity of 37. Yeah thats gonna take a few puffs to heatup and eat some battery doing it. That build would work better with 27 or 28 gauge wire or more power.

 

[Thrasher]

Lots of wire and mechanicals do not go well. In dual mode your somewhere around 12-15 watts per coil then add in a battery not exactly known for massive power curves, and you are pretty much guaranteed of a lame vape.
I would go to 28g for single coil or 30-32 for dual try some 30-32g ribbon, you will only need 4-6 wraps each and it will rip

<<<<<<<<<28g single coil 5 wraps at .7ohms

 

[Bunnykiller]

either go with 28-30 ga wire or smaller 26 coils.. and a bigger battery the present coils are drawing too much from the 18350 and not "gettin" it....
kinda like pulling an 18 wheeler trailer up hill with a moped....

 

[Rsunderl]

Hi Jamok23 and welcome to the forum!

Depending on the battery, you may actually be over the CDR (Continuous Discharge Rate). Many batteries have a CDR of 20 amps - only a few have a CDR above that.

With the build you have, you are drawing a little over 27 amps from your battery.

You always want a safety margin in your builds, because as batteries age, the mAh drops.

I would suggest going to single coil for now. you'll be drawing 13.69 amps with those 1 ohm coils - a better safety margin, and they should heat up faster.

For info on batteries Baditude has several excellent blog posts on the subject. His blogs on battery safety are a must read before you venture into the world of sub-ohm vaping.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/for...ected-icr.html

Reliable sources for batteries:
Batteries-Chargers-Flashlights-Only The Best
Authentic AW Batteries - RTD Vapor
Illumn.com - Flashlights, Batteries, Carry Gear, Intelligent LED Lighting, and More!

Do not buy batteries from eBay or Amazon. Some of their third party sellers sell fakes.

... and finally, here's a link that explains things in pretty simple terms: Vaping Battery Safety & Ohms Law Illustrated and explained in very simple terms

If you're going to be building your own coils, an ohm meter is a must.

Hope it helps and Happy Vaping!

 

[Thrasher]

You may want to check your math there

.5@ 4.2v is a little over 8 amps
1ohm@ 4.2 is 4 amps

where did you get 27?

But I did miss the 18350 part, many can only handle - 5 to 7amps

 

[mcclintock]

Yeah, only a few 18350 can handle that build (e.g. the "new" AW, 3.0WH, 10.5 A). Even with 2 #28 coils my batteries struggle. The flavor didn't happen in my very dual-coil oriented Doge atty until I tried single #26 stovetop, about 2.6", 0.75 ohm. I don't think there's anything special about the stovetop coil itself, but it works with a wall-o-cotton that fills half the side that is used, and blocks the other, resulting in tiny-atty style airflow.

Anyway, try dropping one coil and see the remaining one works better, and then pull off a wrap if it's still too cold. "5 mm" doesn't sound like a microcoil, unless that's length. A large diameter coil, or worse yet my stovetop, needs to be a little hotter (heat flux) due to indirectly heating more juice, and generally running wetter.

 

[MacTechVpr]

You may want to check your math there

.5@ 4.2v is a little over 8 amps
1ohm@ 4.2 is 4 amps

where did you get 27?

But I did miss the 18350 part, many can only handle - 5 to 7amps

Yep.

Basic rebuild T. Why aren't we building to a baseline? Why are they selling microcoils? Super_X and I know what a microcoil is and what its function is supposed to be. We did the dirty business of testing these things to make 'em work.

We marvel why more peeps aren't guiding new vapers to us and the threads where we're talkin' about this.

<shrug>

A microcoil functions as if it we're a continuous short with electrons bridging in a haphazard fashion. The fools selling these things as microcoils to peeps putting them on 350 batt's are askin' for trouble, for all of us. Shorting micro's will go way high in res and the rated amp draw on most 350's is relatively low…but huge when you put an unoxidized close contact coil on one. So 27A, theoretically no. On what a lot of resellers are calling a microcoil or what we consider "safe" erratic shorting open winds…a lot more likely in the direction of 0Ω.

Just sayin'.

Good luck all.

 

[NealBJr]

Hey guys, im hoping i can get some help. i recently purchased a Fogger V4 and along with it, i bought some micro coils to get me started whilst i attempt to make my own. The coil i bought are 5mm 26awg 1.0hm coils and i have them in dual config. I believe that these coils are the problem, but im not 100%% sure. i am running the fogger on the nemesis mod, with an 18350 battery. Fully charged, the coils take anywhere from 5-10 seconds to heat up enough to produce vapor, and even at that, its VERY little vapor production. Does anyone know if the coils are the problem, or if its something else.

Thank you for any and all help.

26 gauge AWG is a bit thicker for my liking, and at 1.0 ohm, it's a lot of metal for the mod to heat up. for 1.0 ohm coils, I prefer .28 AWG coils... those still take a second to heat up, but anything lower, and it just doesn't produce enough vapor.

I use a fogger, but I use it on a Sigeli 100w to push it. I use two 1.4 ohm coils. Now, that being said, I pump up the voltage to 4.8, which is more than what a lithium battery is rated for.

I'd recommend trying a lower ohm coil if you're doing mechanicals, and I'd ditch the 18350's and go with a safer 18650. As it is now, you're using 8.4 amps on a full charge. The largest I've seen an 18350 as far as maximum amperage rating is 12 amp. You can practically double the amperage rating, and triple the capacity. If you want to stick with an 18350, then go to a smaller wire, maybe a 30 gauge AWG and see how that goes.

 

[Thrasher]

W

e marvel why more peeps aren't guiding new vapers to us and the threads where we're talkin' about this.

Many dont care about finess or skill anymore. And they dont have to when you can brute force even the sloppiest build into thunder clouds

 

[MacTechVpr]

W
becuase they wrap 6 inches of aircraft cabling into a bedspring(ssomehow still calling them micro's) dump it in the dripper of the weekweek.k and dump 60 watts into it. Many dont care about finess or skill anymore. And they dont have to when you brute force even the sloppiest build into thunder clouds

It wasn't that long that I started, 18 mos. I quit with the intention of trying to see if proper electrical circuits could be made to help if I succeeded. But tell ya what T, I was true to the cause. Faithfully tried all the winds and methods, gear and strokes they're pushin' out there. Continue to. 'Cause I've wanted to see what folks have put up with. And it's kind'a amazin'. But for every one of you that's willin' to stand up, say woah, try winding on 2mm or check your res there's a jackass round every corner willin' to throw a subΩ d/c in some newb's hands for a $. Now I don't mind folks callin' 'em micro's. Gotta tell ya, bugs the shiit out of me when they do so to ring the bell and open the tray. Supe and I didn't do this for people to profit. We did this to encourage success migrating out of the stinks and the chance for a great and safe vape. And yep, learning to rebuild so to hold on to that great vape for a lifetime (if they choose).

Thanks for letting me vent. Just one too many today…after the thousands I've seen and worked with. Time to go wind some.

Vape on!

Good luck all.

 

[Thrasher]

Lol have a beer, and know theres still people out here who appreciate the effort.

 

[mcclintock]

A microcoil functions as if it we're a continuous short with electrons bridging in a haphazard fashion.

That's a good point, the coils need to be dry burned and shorts teased out, and with these batteries that probably needs be done a coil at a time with #26, even if it can manage otherwise, with an outside door or bucket of water handy.

 

[Rsunderl]

You may want to check your math there

.5@ 4.2v is a little over 8 amps
1ohm@ 4.2 is 4 amps

where did you get 27?

But I did miss the 18350 part, many can only handle - 5 to 7amps

DUH! you're right - looked at the wrong part of Steam Engine

 

[Thrasher]

DUH! you're right - looked at the wrong part of Steam Engine

Mmmmmm hmmmmmm. Wink wink, nudge nudge

 

[Rsunderl]

Mmmmmm hmmmmmm. Wink wink, nudge nudge

::FWAP:: That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

 

[MacTechVpr]

That's a good point, the coils need to be dry burned and shorts teased out, and with these batteries that probably needs be done a coil at a time with #26, even if it can manage otherwise, with an outside door or bucket of water handy.

Don't know about the bucket clint but using a pin vise to tension micro's into life makes it a snap to pulse 'em parallel. They've already been wound as closely tight as nature will allow so you have excellent parity from the jump. If you haven't' tried it, I highly recommend it. And the principle as you probably know can apply to anything we wind.

Good luck.

 

[wheelie]

DUH! you're right - looked at the wrong part of Steam Engine

That's ok. I think I may have made a mistake once. LOL