E-Go T/C leaking question

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I have 10 kits left and have given up completely on figuring out how to stop the leaking and just include Clearomizers. BUT it still burns me up how poor these things are, has anybody come up with a sure fire way on stopping the Type A's from leaking? Keeping in mind most people don't want to take a brand new e-go say down to the garage and mess with it.
 

fisher

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I have found that if I use the silicone caps for the tanks and pre-punch them in the center with a needle juice filler the don't tear and leak. The only problem with that is that is your seal is so tight that you may have to pre-puff to get the atty wet. Unfortunately when the tanks get low they still leak a little, but it is a lot less than with the pre-punched hard caps or it you use the atty wick cover to tear the hole for the silicone caps. Also the silicone caps still get stretched or ragged after a whiile and you will need to replace them, but they are relatively inexpensive.
 
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billo

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I rarely have leaks any more, but when I do I just replace the cap, as mentioned above. They are cheap to buy. Get 5 or 10 extra ones.

Prepunching is supposed to help, but I don't do that since I've not gone to the trouble of getting a 12 guage punch.

Also, if you vape 100% PG they will tend to leak more. Adding maybe 20% VG makes the juice thicker and greatly reduces leaking.
 

HawkeyeFLA

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I generally vape at 50/50 or higher in the VG department. I've never really had a leak that I can think of and I've had my -C for a month now. Some things that the vendor showed me when I bought it ... when putting an atty in, drop it into the cone and let it settle in it's proper alignment, then screw on the base. I know all the videos for the -C show putting the atty on the base then screwing the cone on, but I can see where one could get it a bit out of alignment that way. Keep the tank vertical with the mouth piece down when you put it into the cone. Push hard until it is always the way flush. The newer the tank, the more resounding the click will seem. Slow steady drags seem to be the word of the wise as well, so you're not pulling more fluid in than the atty can handle. All I see when I pull the tank out is condensation, and there's going to be no getting around that. All in all, I personally like the tank system of the -C. I have a DCT sitting at my vape station that I never use. Well, part of that is that it has a dual coil carto in it, and the eGos don't really put out enough power for it, even on the Twist I find. Once I get some single coil cartos around 2.0ohm, I might try the bigger tank again for sitting around the apt. But for on the go, and the way I like to change flavors a few times a day, the easy of the A/B (I have smaller A, think the B is too bulky personally) can't be beat. I did finally buy a drip tip tho for my 2nd cone so I can really change up the flavors now through out the day if I so desired.
 

HawkeyeFLA

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When I got my tanks, I made sure all the little punches/caps popped out clean with no tears and I haven't had issues with leaking. I did have one tank dump completely, but that was probably my error since I'd thinned the juice with a lot of flavoring.

What's interesting, my kit ... the 5 tanks already had the center hole out. I bought a 2nd batch of 5 tanks, and 4 of the 5 were already open. I'm wondering if maybe Joye is realizing that punching the hole is causing some of the leaking problems and shipping tanks already holed. I also bought some of the silicone caps for when my current ones wear out, which I am sure will happen. But I love how easy the tanks are to clean also. If you clean your own, I do recommend using a paper clip to pull out the little piece of plastic at the mouth end as well. That way you can flush out the air flow as well. Since condensation can build up there.
 

Tezcatlipoca

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Slow steady drags seem to be the word of the wise as well, so you're not pulling more fluid in than the atty can handle.

I'd bet good money that ^^^^this^^^^ will solve 99 out of 100 leaky eGo-C/T issues. Most people starting out on them (myself included when I first got mine) drag too hard on them. I found that I could hear a whistling sound through the tank when I was drawing too hard, and that's a good rule of thumb. I changed my ways (wasn't hard to do) and it's been dry as a bone for at least 3 months now. Using LR attys could also help, because they will evaporate the juice faster.
 

HawkeyeFLA

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I'd bet good money that ^^^^this^^^^ will solve 99 out of 100 leaky eGo-C/T issues. Most people starting out on them (myself included when I first got mine) drag too hard on them. I found that I could hear a whistling sound through the tank when I was drawing too hard, and that's a good rule of thumb. I changed my ways (wasn't hard to do) and it's been dry as a bone for at least 3 months now. Using LR attys could also help, because they will evaporate the juice faster.

I loved the LR attys on the regular -C batteries. Now that I'm Twisting the night away, I went back to the SR ones.

I was at my vape store today and the clerk was showing a customer how to load her new -C ... and she was about to invert the tank and load it cap side first. We all were very quickly no no no no. Got a good chuckle out of that one after the fact. Since it also is a big issue I think. I've seen some videos were people load them horizontal. I suppose that's not as bad as cap first, but I could see where some juice could still get out before the spike goes in the hole.
 

Tezcatlipoca

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You know, I don't think I've ever paid attention to how I load the tank into the cone (i.e. horizontal, vertical, diagonal, upside-down, downside-up). It might not make a huge difference because I've noticed that you can hold a full tank perforation down, and juice won't leak out, due to the vacuum created in the tank and surface tension of the juice. This could change with the viscosity of the juice though, and I suppose there might not be surface tension or vacuum in a tank held horizontally.
 

HawkeyeFLA

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You know, I don't think I've ever paid attention to how I load the tank into the cone (i.e. horizontal, vertical, diagonal, upside-down, downside-up). It might not make a huge difference because I've noticed that you can hold a full tank perforation down, and juice won't leak out, due to the vacuum created in the tank and surface tension of the juice. This could change with the viscosity of the juice though, and I suppose there might not be surface tension or vacuum in a tank held horizontally.

Other than a couple bottles of Dekang stuff, I don't think I've ever gone more PG than 50/50, so I really can't say on this one. The Dekang stuff didn't appear to cause any problems, but again I have always loaded cap up, so I dunno.
 

HawkeyeFLA

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I noticed today that the warmer it gets the more it tends to leak. I was using 100% VG when this happened.

I can see where that could happen. Heat expands things, so it's possible that something is going on with the seal of the cap to the spike. I pretty much chain vape at home and it gets pretty darn warm, even more so now that I VV with the Twist, and I have yet to get any leaks, so I dunno. In your case, I would suggest trying the silicone caps. Just be careful with those that the piece that gets punched out doesn't get stuck on the spike. I've heard of that causing all kinds of nasty flavor issues.
 
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