Eagerly awaiting the P3.

[Anarchy84]

I guess I don't get the whole VW thing.

The only benefit (IMO) is not having to do math if you want to dial in a specific wattage. Also, the resistance of your coil will change as it ages, so the VW mod will automatically adjust your voltage to maintain the desired wattage when the resistance of the coil changes, or when you swap toppers / atomizers.

The trade off, at least with every VW mod I've ever used, is there's a brief pause between pushing the power button and the atomizer firing. I assume this is so the mod can determine the resistance of the coil and dial in the specific voltage before it fires. I personally prefer the instant firing of the Provari, but this pause may not be typical of higher end VW mods.

 

[amolson]

Hmmm, last things first. I don't notice any delay on my vv3 between pushing the button and it firing and I leave it on VW. It shouldn't take that long to figure it out, at least in human terms. But then it's rare if I can tell the difference when I go a single step in power, which in the vv3 is 0.5W. I have to go at least a full W to really do anything.

And I do seem to have a fairly decent ability to distinguish tastes. 33.3 chips taste 'muddy' or 'rough' to me and won't buy mods based on it. It's like putting wine in an unfinished wood cup. But I've never noticed a significant change in taste over the lifespan of a coil. And I've now fried 3 of them. It's just too small a change to notice, for me.

I think because, again for me, it gets lost in the 'noise' of vaping one flavor over time. Near the end of a tank, especially my Aspire, I'm usually pretty tired of any flavor anyways.

 

[Shootist]

I guess I don't get the whole VW thing. Maybe it's because I'm a newb, but numbers are numbers. If you go up it gets hotter, if you go down, it gets cooler. Mmmmm, what's the difference if the display reads 10 or 3.9?

Right!!!!

The VW proponents state that once you set it to wattage you like no matter what ohm coil you put on it will always deliver that same wattage. It adjusts the voltage to fit the watts you have set to the resistance of the coil.

I always ask "Why would I want that"? If I have a 1.4 ohm coil and I like to vape at 8.5 watts and then I put on an atomizer that was 2.2+ ohms why would I want to leave it at 8.5 watts.

Again Right. Numbers are numbers. Turn it up it gets hotter. Turn it down it gets cooler.

And all this depends on the accuracy of the device and what the device can deliver. PBusardo has done many review of VW devices that can't regulate down to below something like 4 volts. So even if you have a 1.5 ohm coil and you want 7.5 watts you won't be getting it because that equates to 3.35 volts which the device can't get to.

 

[Garemlin]

To me either way I am adjusting. My coil builds vary. Now if I were running the same exact coil resistance all the time vw might be beneficial. But I go all the way from 1.2Ω - 2.8Ω.

 

[Ozwald]

The resistive variation in a coil along the length of its life is so minimal, I don't consider that a factor for needing VW personally. I've run coils well past the point where they should've been changed out & I've seen no more than a .1 ohm change. It's not enough for me to bother worrying about.

Even with the same resistance coils, I don't keep a consistent power level for different liquids, nor do I have the same liquid running in 2 different tanks with different coils.

I get VW. What I don't get is why so many people make such a big deal about it. It's just another way to the same result. Electronically speaking, a slightly more complex way to the same result. I love my Provaris for not having extra frills that could potentially fail on me. Reliability is a big thing for a lot of Provari owners.

That being said, I really could care less what number I'm vaping at or what scale that number is in. I care about the quality of the vape. I don't really care if the P3 has VW on it or not. I do find it a little stupid when people say they won't buy one until it has that particular frill.

On the other hand, it would be nice if it did have it, just for the sole reason that the 'VW on a Provari' circular debate has been beat to death & listening to whatever the next complaint is going to be would be refreshing, in a way.

 

[amolson]

Yeah, getting rid of that 'VW on a Provari' meme would be great. But to me, it would be like having brass trim. Ok, and, so what? (This may be why I don't get mechs. To me they're chromed flashlights.)

And VW is not that complex. A couple lines of code in the firmware of the display, if that. I'd be very, very surprised if the Provari doesn't monitor the resistance every time it's fired. To a certain extent, it has to, to prevent over/under ohm firing. So the only difference is literally what's shown when you push the button. It's not a real change in the hardware, only the display.

That's why, while I think it will have some kind of VW display, that's not a significant part of the P3. It's like putting a tachometer on a car, or an oil pressure gauge instead of an idiot light. Of course it monitors those things, so displaying them isn't real engineering.

But from everything ProVape has said, the P3 is a complete engineering job, not just a refit, upgrade or fit/finish job. Those wouldn't require significant time for machining or safety review. A completely new device would.

 

[tearose50]

Right!!!!

The VW proponents state that once you set it to wattage you like no matter what ohm coil you put on it will always deliver that same wattage. It adjusts the voltage to fit the watts you have set to the resistance of the coil.

I always ask "Why would I want that"? If I have a 1.4 ohm coil and I like to vape at 8.5 watts and then I put on an atomizer that was 2.2+ ohms why would I want to leave it at 8.5 watts.

Again Right. Numbers are numbers. Turn it up it gets hotter. Turn it down it gets cooler.

And all this depends on the accuracy of the device and what the device can deliver. PBusardo has done many review of VW devices that can't regulate down to below something like 4 volts. So even if you have a 1.5 ohm coil and you want 7.5 watts you won't be getting it because that equates to 3.35 volts which the device can't get to.

It's really a simple answer. SOME of us do like to stay pretty close to a certain wattage level, despite whatever ohms the coils are. I'm more inclined to ask -- Why wouldn't one want to use the same wattage level? Are you perhaps indicating you prefer the same voltage level?

I don't think I'm being too ignorant when I say that if one is using the same type of coil build & filler, with the 2 different ohm's you stated, and the identical holder for that wire, the vape would be nearly identical when set at the same wattage level. This would not be the case using the same voltage level.

More complex to use VW? As is so often said --- both methods are simply turn it up or turn it down.

For my use, the Provari is great for a few reasons. Perhaps mostly is that I usually like lower wattage than the current quality VW devices deliver. I don't vape extreme. But, I gotta say this -- it sure is nice to have that Evolv Display.

 

[amolson]

Heh. Well, my 'dream machine' for tank/carto type PV would be the Provari guts, but with a bluetooth interface where I could get all the sensor data from the mod and then send the control signals to the firing electronics. Basically take the place of the brains through bluetooth.

Then I could use it as a set and forget, as I tend to. Or if I want to fiddle, I could bring everything to my phone and do real time voltage regulation, wattage control, probably even temperature control if I worked at it. Have any number of digits of resolution, up to the abilities of the sensors, all without changing the look or normal function of the device.

And for me, that's the dream. To be able to go back and forth between full auto, like the Provari normally is, or complete off board control. All without changing the look of the device. Ok, one thing I'd do; put a sapphire window over the LED.

 

[twizted]

I've ran the same coil in my kayfun for a month and a half before on my provari & the resistance stayed a constant 2.3 ohms from the day I wrapped it til the day I tossed it. All I done about a couple weeks into it was pulled out the wick, dry burned my coil clean & re-wicked.

 

[Millah]

I change my wattage depending on the tank that I'm using, as well as the viscosity of the liquid. But I generally find no difference in saying certain types of flavors taste better at different watts. To me, the only thing that determines what kind of power I push is simply how well the liquid wicks to the coil. Maybe I'm picky about how well a coil is saturated, or my tastebuds aren't as refined as some of you. So in a Kayfun, which wicks very well in my opinion, I generally turn the watts higher. If I'm using something like a Nautilus, then I turn the power down, otherwise I start to taste a slight burn quickly. To me, it really doesn't matter the flavor, I like the same power without tasting less than fully saturated hits. I like a consistent throat hit and heat up time.

But regardless of that, to those of you who "don't get" VW. What's wrong with simply having the option? You can still CHOOSE to use it in VV mode. VW didn't become a de facto standard today unless people enjoyed the option. Heck, newer devices today are ONLY VW (like DNA's and SX mods). Most importantly, its FAAAR more approachable to a novice. Somebody who's new to vaping doesn't want to learn basic electrical engineering and the principles behind ohm's law. They don't understand coil ohms, and how voltage affects wattage depending on the resistance, etc. They can simply screw on any coil they like, and then adjust the watts to taste. They don't need to know that a particular voltage on one coil is going to perform differently on a lower resistance coil. Just screw on a coil and let the mod do the math for you.

 

[amolson]

Oh, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with VW. Heck, I use it on my vv3 and will probably continue to give wattage preferences in my reviews. It's more consistent from device to device.

However, what I'm saying, is that I don't understand why people are all up in arms about one number versus another. Especially not the whole, "Well, I won't buy x device because it doesn't have y numbers on it." Really because of the whole thing you mention with different wicks and wire gauges (discovered something most people don't mention ... do NOT put a little mod on a 28ga coil. It will throw a fit and maybe fry.) and tastes.

Yes, power is more transferable from device to device, but even more it's a clearer way to convey scale. A Kayfun with a 1.8 ohm, 28 ga coil probably IS going to take more power than a pt2 with a 1.8 ohm coil. Far more juice. I think that's why I've never thought of even watts as anything more than another relative number.

Like I said, I'd be happy with a 1-100 scale. Possibly even happier if it would adjust for what the mod could put out. Slap a 3.0 ohm coil on there or a 1.2 and it would still range from 1-100, whatever voltage that happened to be. (Heh, if I ever get my dream bluetooth device, I might just do that.) And that's really why I don't get the whole 'must have vw' thing.

Not that it's bad or useless, but more like having a choice in LED color. Doesn't really make any difference in how the thing works.

 

[Shootist]

The only benefit (IMO) is not having to do math if you want to dial in a specific wattage. Also, the resistance of your coil will change as it ages, so the VW mod will automatically adjust your voltage to maintain the desired wattage when the resistance of the coil changes, or when you swap toppers / atomizers.

The trade off, at least with every VW mod I've ever used, is there's a brief pause between pushing the power button and the atomizer firing. I assume this is so the mod can determine the resistance of the coil and dial in the specific voltage before it fires. I personally prefer the instant firing of the Provari, but this pause may not be typical of higher end VW mods.

What math do you have to do if you want to dial in a specific Voltage. Different wattage is different voltage. Raise the volts the wattage goes up. Lower the volts the wattage goes down.

Oh wait if you have VW and you raise the wattage, Guess What the Volts go up. If you lower the wattage the volts go down.

It is the same thing on a different scale. Just because people across the pond use Celsius as a temperature scale doesn't change the actual point water boils or freezes at.

 

[Shootist]

But regardless of that, to those of you who "don't get" VW. What's wrong with simply having the option? You can still CHOOSE to use it in VV mode. VW didn't become a de facto standard today unless people enjoyed the option. Heck, newer devices today are ONLY VW (like DNA's and SX mods). Most importantly, its FAAAR more approachable to a novice. Somebody who's new to vaping doesn't want to learn basic electrical engineering and the principles behind ohm's law. They don't understand coil ohms, and how voltage affects wattage depending on the resistance, etc. They can simply screw on any coil they like, and then adjust the watts to taste. They don't need to know that a particular voltage on one coil is going to perform differently on a lower resistance coil. Just screw on a coil and let the mod do the math for you.

There is nothing wrong with having VW. But it is simply the same exact thing as VV. Sure you like setting wattage, fine. I like knowing exactly what voltage is being delivered to the coil. The watts I could care less about.

Also VW is not the De facto standard. This whole wattage thing came about by the cloud chasers. Guess what. If you have a .35 ohm coil and you are running it at 30 watts do you know what voltage is being delivered to the coil? 3.24 volts.

If it was a .5 ohm coil you would have 3.87 volts delivered to the coil.

If you tried to power a 1.6 ohm coil at that 30 watts the device would need to deliver 6.92 volts and you would burn out your throat and basically Burn the liquid.

I don't see how it is more approachable to a novice. Most of what you read is all about "How I'm pushing 30+ watts to my atomizer and it hitting hard". A novice tries that and they get a burnt hit and a burnt throat.

If you do the math a good vape on a standard ohm coil is somewhere between 7.5 to 10 watts. Maybe with one of the lower ohm manufactured coils you might get to 12 or 13 watts.

 

[Anarchy84]

What math do you have to do if you want to dial in a specific Voltage.

My post says "...if you want to dial in a specific wattage" - not voltage. I don't use VW mods, but some people claim they like to vape a specific wattage regardless of topper / ohms. If you were one of those people, you could swap toppers without having to press any buttons at all on a VW mod.

Personally, like you, I find myself changing voltage up/down all the time. I agree that it's kind of a moot point, I was simply trying to explain the benefits as I see them. Perhaps a die-hard VW user could give us their reasoning for why it's better. Either way, I'm sure the P3 will have VW simply because so many people seem to want / require it.

 

[Addy_AU]

OK, I always use VW and this is why:
I use carto tanks and Russian 91%. With cartos I like between 8 and 9W no matter if they are SR or LR.
With Russian it's always 11W+ no matter what the resistance of the coil (usually between 1.4 and 1.7Ohms).
With the Russian, VV is not an issue, but with cartos there is a big difference between 3Ohm carto and 2Ohm carto if you apply the same voltage, and cartos are easy to burn (high VG liquids).
In saying all that, I'm about to buy a used Provari 2.5.

Addy

 

[Anarchy84]

In saying all that, I'm about to buy a used Provari 2.5.

Enjoy it. I'm sure you will.