eFest LUC Charger II Back in Stock! New Improved Battry Slideouts and Other Features - ON SALE!
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Already had an Intellicharger i2, which I believe is a very good charger. But, I wanted that damn display! lol. Plus, it has the car charger cord, and a USB charging port. How cool is that! I don't know what else they could have put in this thing.
best regards, larry mac
best regards, larry mac
Question about this charger. When I insert a battery to charge, it show's a higher volts than my various APV's show. In other words, say my Provari starts flashing (indicating a low battery), and the Provari shows a 3.4 volts when I check battery. Then, I put the battery in the LUC charger, and it shows 3.8 volts. The same thing happens if I put the same battery in another APV, such as a Vamo V3. And by that I mean the discrepancy between the APV, and the LUC.
Is that difference due to the battery being "under a load" in the APV, but not in the LUC. Which is it, 3.4 or 3.8 volts? I wouldn't think a 3.8 volts would make the APV's think it was a low battery. Or should I just ignore this and not worry about it?
best regards, larry mac
Is that difference due to the battery being "under a load" in the APV, but not in the LUC. Which is it, 3.4 or 3.8 volts? I wouldn't think a 3.8 volts would make the APV's think it was a low battery. Or should I just ignore this and not worry about it?
best regards, larry mac
Only testing with an accurate voltmeter ( most of the common ones aren't that accurate ) can you tell for certain... so if you don't mind a bit of an educated guess as apposed to an exact, accurate answer...
Being under load would certainly account for some of the discrepancy and is probably the most correct... but there are other factors that can also apply such as the number of connections, tube threads, springs etc between the APV's tester and the battery itself... all of these connections will also have some loss in them. In the charger, you only have the spring connectors and the battery itself.
So I'd venture a guess that it is the combination of load, loss at each connection all coming into play... not to mention that accuracy ( on both the charger and APV ) isn't that important just as long as the APV does cut off before the battery does reach too low of a voltage... or too high of a voltage on the charger.
Thanks rdsoc. A little embarrassed because I forgot I had ordered a volt meter a couple months ago just in case I needed one. It's an Innova 3300. A decent one for the price, I surmised from my research.
So here is what I found, on a AW IMR 18490 battery that has an unknown charge ( I took it out of an APV):
~ with innova on dcv 20v setting: 3.98 volts
~ with innova on battery load test 9v setting: 3.96 volts
~ in innokin SVD: 4.0 volts
~ in Provari 2.5: 3.9 volts
~ in Provari mini Zombie: 3.7 volts
~ in LUC battery charger: 3.9 volts
So that's pretty good agreement between the APV's and LUC battery charger I'd say. As you know, the Provari actually fires the atomizer with a low level charge when checking volts or ohms. So you'd expect a slightly lower reading I would think.
Now, I have to do some vaping to get a depleted battery so I can check at that voltage. After all, that's what got me curious in the first place. I'll use an AW IMR 18350. That way I can also add a Vamo V3 into the mix. lol.
best regards, larry mac
So here is what I found, on a AW IMR 18490 battery that has an unknown charge ( I took it out of an APV):
~ with innova on dcv 20v setting: 3.98 volts
~ with innova on battery load test 9v setting: 3.96 volts
~ in innokin SVD: 4.0 volts
~ in Provari 2.5: 3.9 volts
~ in Provari mini Zombie: 3.7 volts
~ in LUC battery charger: 3.9 volts
So that's pretty good agreement between the APV's and LUC battery charger I'd say. As you know, the Provari actually fires the atomizer with a low level charge when checking volts or ohms. So you'd expect a slightly lower reading I would think.
Now, I have to do some vaping to get a depleted battery so I can check at that voltage. After all, that's what got me curious in the first place. I'll use an AW IMR 18350. That way I can also add a Vamo V3 into the mix. lol.
best regards, larry mac
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Rdsok, you are very good at your answers. you are about 90% correct in your assumptions. As a long time Electronic tech I can add a little more to it for you and and Larry Mac. 99% of most APV's with resistance checks do so under load. On the Provari you can tell this because when you check the batery voltage you will hear the atty fire. This is true in most APV's. That is why when you put it on Charger the voltage will show a little higher as it is testing under no load. Also when removed from service even for a few minutes Li-Mn batts voltage will rise as the residual charastics of the batt changes with no load.
It's not that I'm 10% incorrect ( yeah, a glass half empty sort here lol )... as I just didn't mention that other 10%...
It's actually the same with the lipo's I have used for years in my RC planes... only they are much more volatile if abused than the types we use in a PV. Most of my planes will pull between 10a-100a burst... so I've dealt with high amp stuff for quite some time which is just now coming into the higher end mech mods. Voltage drop is a big deal at those power levels and as you mentioned... the batteries will "recover" after they sit a bit and have pulled them off of their load...
OK guys, or gals (gotta throw that in there so my biaches don't be getting all up in my face lol). So I'm taking the answer to my question as D: don't be worrying about it!
I'm still gonna try it again with a low battery, 'cause that's what we do, right? lol.
best regards, larry mac
I'm still gonna try it again with a low battery, 'cause that's what we do, right? lol.
best regards, larry mac
I'd certainly check it out on a low battery if for no other reason that just curiosity...
Remember that the charger is applying power to the battery which will skew the measured voltage that the LUC can read. A battery that's at 3.7 volts would read 3.8 or 3.9 when charging at least that's what I'm seeing with my LUC.
The only way I see that the LUC could give the most accurate reading is if it stopped charging for 2 minutes to let the battery settle down to it's actual voltage then take a reading, just not worth it to me.
Another less accurate way would be to stop charging for a few seconds every minute or so to update the display.
The only way I see that the LUC could give the most accurate reading is if it stopped charging for 2 minutes to let the battery settle down to it's actual voltage then take a reading, just not worth it to me.
Another less accurate way would be to stop charging for a few seconds every minute or so to update the display.
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