I've found a trick in rebuilding this style atty that also removes the 'solder'. A wire is soldered to one end of the coil and reaches through the ceramic cup to be soldered to the small brass looking connection plate. I remove this entire wire and replace it with a sewing needle its not hard to find one long enough that will also fit through the hole in the ceramic cup.
You want the loop end of the needle (thread normally goes through) to be in the ceramic cup. When re-assembling leave the bottom silicon stopper in place with the metal connector removed. Shove the ceramic cup and spike on flush, then cut the needle to sit flush out the silicon end piece and then put the metal connector on so it touches the needle. Now when you replace the coil one end touches the metal wall and the other end gets twisted onto the sewing needle end.
Check with a meter to ensure a sort from the plate to the needle. You could optionally solder the needle to the plate, but I prefer life without solder.
Trying to shove too large of a needle in I broke a ceramic cup in half. Thinking of how my stardust/ce4+ has no ceramic cup I just built the coil onto the wick that comes out of the spike. I wedge one wire between the spike insert and the metal shell and the other end to the needle...
Currently working on trying to make a dual coil mod with two strands of bamboo thread going into the spike. With the top half both strands wrapped together in SS and below the spike be two separate strands wrapped in SS mesh and resistance wire.
Leaving the option for two high resistance coils of very fine wire or two coils in series of like 32 gauge wire. I have been oxidizing the mesh and before and after coiling to avoid short outs of the two coils. To do this I am using a shorter needle piece, no ceramic cup and vertical style coils. This time I did solder down the sewing needle because things were really wobbly without the ceramic cup holding it all in place.
So far the ego-c with one wick replacing the two wick system really improves on the flavor and wicking consistency.
You want the loop end of the needle (thread normally goes through) to be in the ceramic cup. When re-assembling leave the bottom silicon stopper in place with the metal connector removed. Shove the ceramic cup and spike on flush, then cut the needle to sit flush out the silicon end piece and then put the metal connector on so it touches the needle. Now when you replace the coil one end touches the metal wall and the other end gets twisted onto the sewing needle end.
Check with a meter to ensure a sort from the plate to the needle. You could optionally solder the needle to the plate, but I prefer life without solder.
Trying to shove too large of a needle in I broke a ceramic cup in half. Thinking of how my stardust/ce4+ has no ceramic cup I just built the coil onto the wick that comes out of the spike. I wedge one wire between the spike insert and the metal shell and the other end to the needle...
Currently working on trying to make a dual coil mod with two strands of bamboo thread going into the spike. With the top half both strands wrapped together in SS and below the spike be two separate strands wrapped in SS mesh and resistance wire.
Leaving the option for two high resistance coils of very fine wire or two coils in series of like 32 gauge wire. I have been oxidizing the mesh and before and after coiling to avoid short outs of the two coils. To do this I am using a shorter needle piece, no ceramic cup and vertical style coils. This time I did solder down the sewing needle because things were really wobbly without the ceramic cup holding it all in place.
So far the ego-c with one wick replacing the two wick system really improves on the flavor and wicking consistency.
