I really liked the taste and shape of the eGo-C setup but there were a few small issues I thought could be improved on:
Anyways, I set out to modify the little atty so that it could be re-used easily and re-loaded with a new wick and coil.
This is how:
First push out the battery connector stem and drill the small vent hole bigger. Push the stem back in place when done. I made mine about 1.5mm diameter.
Now you have to butcher one of your dead replaceable attys (hope you kept them!). Cut the bottom battery connection and silicon piece off and discard. Push the entire ceramic cup from the metal sleeve and remove remnants of the old coil and wick setup. Carefully inspect why it died in the first place....?
Use a small bunsen torch to heat the ceramic cup red hot to remove all traces of whatever was in there previously and to clean burn the small holes where the wires went trough.
Insert two thin hypodermic needles through these holes as shown below. One of the needle's tip needs to be bent in such a way that it curls down on the outside of the ceramic cup to touch the metal sleeve once inserted back to ensure good conductivity. The bottom of the same needle can also be bent outwards to touch on the bottom of the metal sleeve - also shown below. I cut a small indent into my sleeve to secure it nicely in place.
The other needle needs to touch the centre post of the battery connector and you will see in the pictures shown below how I bent mine. It's a pretty failsafe method for good conductance since the outside sleeve pushes down onto the atty and pushes it straight ensuring odd contact.
Once your needles are in place, glue with epoxy or whatever you use for these things.... I also crimped the bottom of my needles very close to the ceramic entry holes to make sure they "expand" a bit and fit tight.
Something else I added was a slightly longer centre tube in the ceramic cup - it extends about 2mm into the inside of the cup to make sure the condensed liquid cannot run back into the air intake tube. This is optional. It works well but takes some cutting and drilling of the ceramic - and that is not easy to do... Broke a few cups in the process....
All done and ready for re-assembly
BIG NOTE ABOUT THE WICK:
Thanks to EvilGrym's thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...terials-safe-vs-dangerous-46.html#post5717639 I decided to try a small cotton ball on top of the wick. I made a roll of stainless steel mesh, oxidised it and fitted into the standard tank connector. It must not fit too tightly - you have to be able to easily move it in and out when in place. The end of the s/steel mesh will touch against the cotton ball and suck the liquid from the tank. The cotton ball ensures perfect wicking and spreads the VG very nicely - never a dry hit or burnt taste (unless your tank is empty)....
Assembly as below and enjoy.
Pin the wires in place with very thin sewing needle tips to secure the coil wires inside the hypodermic needles.
(I added a silica o-ring around the atty to ensure no leakage)
That's it! Works like a charm.
- The draw is very hard
- The coil resistance is set to whatever you buy
- You cannot repair it - or can you?
Anyways, I set out to modify the little atty so that it could be re-used easily and re-loaded with a new wick and coil.
This is how:
First push out the battery connector stem and drill the small vent hole bigger. Push the stem back in place when done. I made mine about 1.5mm diameter.
Now you have to butcher one of your dead replaceable attys (hope you kept them!). Cut the bottom battery connection and silicon piece off and discard. Push the entire ceramic cup from the metal sleeve and remove remnants of the old coil and wick setup. Carefully inspect why it died in the first place....?
Use a small bunsen torch to heat the ceramic cup red hot to remove all traces of whatever was in there previously and to clean burn the small holes where the wires went trough.
Insert two thin hypodermic needles through these holes as shown below. One of the needle's tip needs to be bent in such a way that it curls down on the outside of the ceramic cup to touch the metal sleeve once inserted back to ensure good conductivity. The bottom of the same needle can also be bent outwards to touch on the bottom of the metal sleeve - also shown below. I cut a small indent into my sleeve to secure it nicely in place.
The other needle needs to touch the centre post of the battery connector and you will see in the pictures shown below how I bent mine. It's a pretty failsafe method for good conductance since the outside sleeve pushes down onto the atty and pushes it straight ensuring odd contact.
Once your needles are in place, glue with epoxy or whatever you use for these things.... I also crimped the bottom of my needles very close to the ceramic entry holes to make sure they "expand" a bit and fit tight.
Something else I added was a slightly longer centre tube in the ceramic cup - it extends about 2mm into the inside of the cup to make sure the condensed liquid cannot run back into the air intake tube. This is optional. It works well but takes some cutting and drilling of the ceramic - and that is not easy to do... Broke a few cups in the process....
All done and ready for re-assembly
BIG NOTE ABOUT THE WICK:
Thanks to EvilGrym's thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...terials-safe-vs-dangerous-46.html#post5717639 I decided to try a small cotton ball on top of the wick. I made a roll of stainless steel mesh, oxidised it and fitted into the standard tank connector. It must not fit too tightly - you have to be able to easily move it in and out when in place. The end of the s/steel mesh will touch against the cotton ball and suck the liquid from the tank. The cotton ball ensures perfect wicking and spreads the VG very nicely - never a dry hit or burnt taste (unless your tank is empty)....
Assembly as below and enjoy.
Pin the wires in place with very thin sewing needle tips to secure the coil wires inside the hypodermic needles.
(I added a silica o-ring around the atty to ensure no leakage)
That's it! Works like a charm.
