[Pictures] Ego-C Mod into a 'Genesis' style RBA.

[Lastlokean]

So my quartz tank broke on my home made genesis style atomizer. I was turned back to rummaging up atomizers that had been tossed aside. The Ego-C for some reason sparked my intrigue.

After not looking at one for so long... I had not noticed its simple potential for a SS wick.

1) Take out an ego-c atomizer.

2) Remove the little spike from the top. Also remove the silicone gasket and contact plate from the bottom. Remove and discard the wire from the contact plate. Save these.


3) Push out the ceramic cup along with the wick/coil assembly. Throw these away.


4) Push a prepared SS wick through the spike.


(I use a thin tube of SS mesh with a silica rope core)

5) Put one piece of the wire through the spike, between the wick and plate. This is the (-) connection to the coil. Wrap the coil arond the wick desired # of times. Here I do 6/7 wraps with 32 gauge nichrome. Also note the leg is doubled up on itself to avoid 'hot legs'.

6) Put the spike back on the top of the metal tube. The twisted up nichrome leg should stick out the other end. Put the nichrome leg through one of the tiny holes on the gasket. Band it over so it holds in place, and the metal contact will pinch it between the gasket when you put the contact back on.

(Hard to see, but there is a little piece of wire sticking out of the gasket and bent sideways..

7) Put the metal contact plate on the bottom.



Use a multi-meter to ensure contact is made and resistance is appropriate.

Use with an ego-c tank system.

Easy to rebuild in the future, because the ceramic guts are already out.. Just remove top spike and bottom gasket. Recoil & Rebuild.

Works better than my Ego-C used to... Still leaks a bit here and there.

 

[Teach]

Lastlo - Nice idea!

Are you still using it? How is this holding up?

 

[Lastlokean]

It is holding up alright... I would say it definitely isn't for you if you don't already have experience rolling ss wicks. Mostly because it is such a pain to get at the coil in order to make those tiny adjustments. I have a nice lab bench power supply I use to oxidize my coil/wick a final time before putting the assembly together... Without some type of power supply it is not really possible to get the coil glowing to check for hot spots.

I have started doing pretty much the same thing... Taking out the ceramic cup and using a bigger wick... Only with a cotton wick. This is easier to set up but performs almost as nice.

With a cotton wick I have also been getting much less leaking. Actually the least # of leaks I have ever gotten from this ego-c system. Using one of the special silicone caps and a semi-tight cotton wick in the spike. At this point I'd actually recommend anyone with an ego-c system to try gutting a dead atty and rebuilding it with cotton.

I have amazing results with a tightly rolled tube of cotton gauze and 5/6 wraps of 32 gauge nichrome.

 

[Exhaler]

Nifty Lastlo. Got to try this with one of my E-Cab atomizers. Bit smallish to work on but it should fly. Instead of SS might be forced to use cotton or eko due to the size hole on the spike but will try 500 SS first.

 

[Lastlokean]

Should have given more detail on the wick prep I used...

Start with a paper clip or similar item that has a diameter very close to the same as the hole. Cut a piece of 500 count mesh just wide enough to wrap a paper clip about 2-3 times. Oxidize in your preferred manner. After oxidizing thread a piece of cotton / silica through the center. Know gently roll it tighter, checking to see if it fits every few seconds. After a few gentle twists your wick should be easily installed.

I find it helps to start with an excessive long wick to what is needed. Over tighten just one end just a little bit to get it feeding into the spike easier.

 

[dnutz]

Will this work for use in E Roll atomizers?

 

[Lastlokean]

I have no idea what an E-Roll atomizer is...?

I did some google searching... They seem to be an ego-c knock off? I have no idea the differences if that is the case. Does it have the removable top spike and all that jazz?

 

[Teach]

I have no idea what an E-Roll atomizer is...?

I did some google searching... They seem to be an ego-c knock off? I have no idea the differences if that is the case. Does it have the removable top spike and all that jazz?

Joyetech eRoll uses the Type A atty. Same as eCab, ECA, and the other Tank series. The bases vary dependent on the ecig, but Joyetech appears to be switching many (all?) their models to the small atty.

 

[dnutz]

Yes it is a type A atty in the eroll. I tried your mod on it and recoiled. It works good but leaks like crazy after a while because the cartridges have to fit tight on the atty. It seems the wire coming out through the spike for the negative is causing leaking because it ruins the cartridge. I wish there was another way to make the negative connection. Thanks for your post. It helped me revive my type As. Just can't use in eroll.

 

[Lastlokean]

I am sorry to hear about your leaking! One idea could be to wrap the outside of the SS wick in cotton... Not necessarily the whole thing, just the part that goes through the spike. Are you using the hard plastic tank covers or the soft silicone ones?

With the hard caps the ego-c seems to just dump the tank. With the soft silicone caps leaking is much less.

Another thought is to cram the wire between the top spike and the side wall. (In those little grooves that hold it on so tight...) It might take a little filing to get it to fit back on with a wire crammed in there.

If you just want to rebuild your atties... Use the same method but with a less leaky wick like cotton or silica... The biggest thing about this mod is getting rid of that ceramic cup and two wick system. Just one wick coming through the spike with a coil on it. It allows much more room for bigger coil / wick setups.

 

[dnutz]

Thanks so much for your help. The eroll carts are plastic and leak with the wire through and bent over the spike. I will try bending the wire over the top of the atty base before putting the spike back on and securing the negative wire that way. I will report back on how this works.

Thanks again for helping me out. You are awesome!

 

[Lastlokean]

No problem m8... Just thought I'd share my random experiment with the community!

 

[DJ RyckRak]

I've rebuilt the eGo-c, type B attys too.
Didn't throw the guts out though...
Just re wicked and recoiled them.
Had to use a dentist drill bit on the ceramic cups to enlarge the holes for the coil wires...
And just folded the wire under the contact pad on the bottom instead of soldering it.
First one took 45 minutes...
Now, I can do them in 10 minutes.
Done a bunch, all work like new...maybe a little better.

 

[Lastlokean]

I also used to rebuild them as close to as they came brand new. Its just nice to have extra space for a bigger coil / wick. I'd say the biggest advantage is the ability to make a nice fat wick with 9/10 turns of 30 gauge for ~1.8 ohms. I recommend you try just one without the ceramic guts for comparison... You might be surprised !

 

[wa1nee]

I tried to rebuild the eroll atty but can't figure out how to remove the ceramic cup. Any tips? Thanks!!!!

 

[Lastlokean]

They can be tough to get out. Start with removing the top spike and the bottom silicone. Then set it down upside down (where the spike used to be is sitting on a solid surface.) Take a small nail / screwdriver or some other solid post. Pound out the ceramic. It is pretty easy to break and it will come out in pieces.

If you still can't get it out... You could try heating the tube. This will expand the tube and soften any crud. Then try the above steps again while the atomizer is still warm.

 

[dnutz]

So far so good! No leaking. I just snapped the spike back on worth the negative wire secured between those little grooves. It holds well. Thanks again for all your help!

I just broke the ceramic cup out using a screwdriver. It's too difficult to push it out.

 

[wa1nee]

Thanks for the tips, I'm trying to save the ceramic cup but if it get too frustrating, I'll just break it and try without the ceramic cup. If this work out, buying this https://www.fasttech.com/products/1348202 and rebuilding it might be a cost effective alternative to buying the Joye one at $5 a pop.

 

[rhm3769]

Sorry for posting In an old thread.... just fried an ego atty on a dry burn so Im willing to try this now.... the negative lead just has to make contact with the casing of the atty and the positive comes through the bottom to the contact plate?

Edit, answered my question taking the ceramic cup out....