eGo ONE tank series – CLR coil

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Katdarling

I'm still here on ECF... sort of. ;)
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ahaha "the little grommety things" did make me smile. I figured out of course KatieD meant Silicone Pin Sleeve p/n 4986653. jk about the part number. :D

Is THAT what they're called. Silicone Pin Sleeves? Hu Gnu??


This is WAY OVER the number of Watts I'd ever use...(for a person that has never gone over 20Watts)...

(I know...just because it has 120Watts doesn't mean I have to use 120Watts.)

But...we're only talkin' $19...:shock:

Kangertech KBOX 120 TC Box mod (US Vendor) $19.00

They currently have 2 colorways in stock: black and red. Shipping is FREE on US orders over $49.

Kangertech KBOX 120w TC Box Mod


..

We had a couple of the less wattage versions. I don't know, but they may have been lost in a scuba diving adventure. :blink:



I'm afraid I get a bit wound when I see dings and nicks.
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Good thing you weren't drinkin', Occifer.
 

lil_buddy

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Is THAT what they're called. Silicone Pin Sleeves? Hu Gnu??

First google hit with "Silicone Pin Sleeves"...
pin.jpeg
 

David Wolf

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David Wolf

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Anybody got an eleaf Aster? Won one in a contest and it's waiting for me at the po.
Hopefully you got the Aster mod, I've heard that's decent. I bought an Eleaf Aster Total, which is an all in one using IC 1.1 coils, I vaped it for half a spitting muted vapor tank full, the coils have a solid bottom with zero air flow. It now resides in my box of bad mistakes.
 

Foggy Road

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(I know...just because it has 120Watts doesn't mean I have to use 120Watts.)

Keep in mind also that just cuz ya can make the screen show 7 watts doesn't always mean the mod is capable of accurately stepping down that low. People who push that "ya don't hafta use it all" fallacy often don't mention this until confronted with it then admit, well yeah, but that's just some mods. If yer a tootle puffer yer best bet is to stick with tootle gear. Unless someone you trust says yeah I've got one and it does what ya ask of it.

:2c:
 

FranC

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    Hopefully you got the Aster mod, I've heard that's decent. I bought an Eleaf Aster Total, which is an all in one using IC 1.1 coils, I vaped it for half a spitting muted vapor tank full, the coils have a solid bottom with zero air flow. It now resides in my box of bad mistakes.
    Yes,it's the Aster Mod,not the total. Thanks:)
     

    gerrymi

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    Keep in mind also that just cuz ya can make the screen show 7 watts doesn't always mean the mod is capable of accurately stepping down that low. If yer a tootle puffer yer best bet is to stick with tootle gear.

    Interesting concept Foggy...I remember the brouhaha that erupted when it was discovered that the iStick-20W did not step-down accurately...:shock:

    But with it...if you normally vaped at 7W but set it to 5W...you'd get the vape that you were used too...

    Might the same principle apply to an "inaccurate step-down" 120W Mod???

    If I normally vape at 15W...put in a fresh coil...then slowly move up from 8W to find my "perfect" vape...

    Does it really matter if I end up with the screen reading 10W...

    ..
     

    440BB

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    Step down becomes important if you vape at lower wattages, say 5-6. Some brands simply don't go that low in wattage and now that TC is the common alternative versus VV, there is no way to go lower. I only look at regulated devices that can range from one watt up with filtered PWM or DC power. Fortunately, there are quite a few!
     

    Katdarling

    I'm still here on ECF... sort of. ;)
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    Interesting concept Foggy...I remember the brouhaha that erupted when it was discovered that the iStick-20W did not step-down accurately...:shock:

    But with it...if you normally vaped at 7W but set it to 5W...you'd get the vape that you were used too...

    Might the same principle apply to an "inaccurate step-down" 120W Mod???

    If I normally vape at 15W...put in a fresh coil...then slowly move up from 8W to find my "perfect" vape...

    Does it really matter if I end up with the screen reading 10W...

    ..

    This is certainly no longer timely, but I wrestled a lot with the iStick 20. So I made a sticky for my Sticky.

    How to regulate the iStick:
    Screen voltage (mean) RMS Effective voltage
    5.5 -- 5.63
    5.4 -- 5.58
    5.3 -- 5.53
    5.2 -- 5.47
    5.1 -- 5.42
    5 -- 5.37
    4.9 -- 5.31
    4.8 -- 5.26
    4.7 -- 5.20
    4.6 -- 5.15
    4.5 -- 5.09
    4.4 -- 5.03
    4.3 -- 4.98
    4.2 -- 4.92
    4.1 -- 4.86
    4 -- 4.80
    3.9 -- 4.74
    3.8 -- 4.68
    3.7 -- 4.62
    3.6 -- 4.55
    3.5 -- 4.49
    3.4 -- 4.43
    3.3 -- 4.36
    3.2 -- 4.29
    3.1 -- 4.23
    3 -- 4.16

    How to use this table?

    Suppose we want to vape at 10 watts. For example, we screw a 2 ohms atomizer. We select 10 watts. The screen does nothing but show the direct application of Ohm's law, so it’s showed 2 ohm of resistance, 10 watts selected and 4.5 volts delivered.
    Now, we go to the table to find the closest value to 4.5 in the RMS column, it is 4.49 and it corresponds to a 3.5 voltage in Screen Voltage (mean) column . Now we reduce the power, watts, until the screen shows 3.5 volts. That's it, we can vape at 10 watts.
    In 2 ohms resistance example, screen is showing 6 watts, but actually we are vaping at 10 watts.
    The bad news is that the iStick is actually a variable voltage mod 4.16 to 5.5 volts, not 3 to 5.5 volts.
    If for some reason we use the variable voltage mode, it is even easier. When selecting screen voltage it will deliver effective volts in RMS column. But the watts in screen are still untrue.
     

    Katdarling

    I'm still here on ECF... sort of. ;)
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    If I normally vape at 15W...put in a fresh coil...then slowly move up from 8W to find my "perfect" vape...

    Does it really matter if I end up with the screen reading 10W...

    To me -- not in the slightest!
     

    pufZeppelin

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    Interesting concept Foggy...I remember the brouhaha that erupted when it was discovered that the iStick-20W did not step-down accurately...:shock:
    But with it...if you normally vaped at 7W but set it to 5W...you'd get the vape that you were used too...
    Might the same principle apply to an "inaccurate step-down" 120W Mod???
    If I normally vape at 15W...put in a fresh coil...then slowly move up from 8W to find my "perfect" vape...
    Does it really matter if I end up with the screen reading 10W...
    ..


    :) yepper gerrymi , think you are confusing 'step-down' (unable to go lower than battery charge) (step-down / boost)
    with IN-accuracy o_O

    note: atta-boy to Eleaf for jumping all over that situation to take on the world...
    they tuned-in the output accuracy, added 10w, fixed the 'soft' 510 threads, and even put the 'flair' on to allow 22mm to fit
    that resulted in a complete change/swing in the vape world - small, cheap, friendly vape devices which we are still into today...

    some people like to harp on about; the evolv chip is SO ACCURATE with TEMP CONTROL (not the rock-solid chip output, but temp accuracy)
    again, start low and work up till it suits you... just as long as it is CONSISTENT - is it 10.2w or 10.6w ? ? -- 310°F or 325°F ? ?

    same deal with the ΩohmΩ readers .984578Ω or .99Ω or 1.054887Ω
    then screw topper on each device, maybe just a bit different .99332Ω or 1.0087Ω (I would call all of those 1.0Ω)
    as long as it is CLOSE, who's keeping score - just vape :):);):):)
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    upload_2017-6-12_17-35-15.png

    upload_2017-6-12_17-37-41.png


    upload_2017-6-12_17-38-20.png
    upload_2017-6-12_17-38-49.png

    :evil:
     

    Sir Kadly

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    Peek, who? ;)

    Kadley, I'm actually not crazy about the Pico, believe it or not.
    So I've gathered. I saw one at Atcha's last fall and instantly fell in love, so I bought a couple. Guaranteed (well, almost) that everyday I will have a Coppervape and a Pico with me. Other mods may vary but those two are almost always with me. But that's mostly a size and weight thing, both of those are easy to carry in a breast pocket just like I used to carry my smokes.
     
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