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Sweet! Forget my above post
Oh I agree, the less handling the better! I used tape just like you mentioned earlier and it worked out great. It will be interesting to see how the ekowool holds up compared to the Nextel. I have an igo-l built with each so I can vape them side by side.
Would a lighter work?
Ekowool is just basically regular silica just weaved different? Or does it have a different composition I'm not aware of?
Ekowool is just basically regular silica just weaved different? Or does it have a different composition I'm not aware of?
I just got 3 feet of 3mm eko from Okcvapes. About 1/2 inch was unravelled in the bag. A bic lighter doesn't seem to stop the fraying? I corralled the other end with some kanthal. I would like to see some tutorials for IGO-L coils with this stuff.
Dana
Dana
I torched the heck out of mine with a butane torch, that stiffened it up and helped to stop the fraying. I also did what Uno Mas suggested earlier...
"Torching helps...
Also what I do is tape where I plan to cut my length off at, cutting the tape in half leaving some on the piece I plan on coiling and some on the remainder to keep it from unraveling. I cut my length a little long so I can torch between the taped ends and cut off the extra as the last thing I do."
"Torching helps...
Also what I do is tape where I plan to cut my length off at, cutting the tape in half leaving some on the piece I plan on coiling and some on the remainder to keep it from unraveling. I cut my length a little long so I can torch between the taped ends and cut off the extra as the last thing I do."
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No need to apologize.
I've tried contacting ekowool with no success and I'd like to find some at a reasonable price but no success thus far...:s
Finding it doesnt seem to be an issue, however, the reasonable price part is proving to be very difficult
A normal bic lighter probably can't provide enough heat to properly stiffen it up. And it could leave behind lots of black sooty nastiness on the wick.
If I get a section of Ekowool glowing red for 5-6 sections, it's VERY stiff and stays together perfectly (only frays maybe 1/8th of an inch or so) I torch the whole piece when I'm making a wick, and this makes it stiff enough that I don't even have to use a needle/pin to wrap the wire tight.
Has anyone had issues with air bubbles INSIDE their wick? I'm using 3mm which is pretty thick, and when I have my wick laying on the deck of whatever rebuildable I'm using, many times the inside of the ekowool "opens up" (since it's hollow) and has a long air bubble inside.
I wouldn't care, but this seems to displace a lot of area that could be occupied with juice, reducing the amount I can drip before flooding. I've also had instances a few times where I've got a dry wick where the coil is, when there was still plenty of juice in the dripper and in the ends of the wick. This has only happened a few times, and I'm thinking it has something to do with the air bubbles screwing the ability of the juice to wick down the ekowool. I know it's not a choked wick or a hotspot of any kind, it's just like the juice randomly refuses to move for a little bit.
If I get a section of Ekowool glowing red for 5-6 sections, it's VERY stiff and stays together perfectly (only frays maybe 1/8th of an inch or so) I torch the whole piece when I'm making a wick, and this makes it stiff enough that I don't even have to use a needle/pin to wrap the wire tight.
Has anyone had issues with air bubbles INSIDE their wick? I'm using 3mm which is pretty thick, and when I have my wick laying on the deck of whatever rebuildable I'm using, many times the inside of the ekowool "opens up" (since it's hollow) and has a long air bubble inside.
I wouldn't care, but this seems to displace a lot of area that could be occupied with juice, reducing the amount I can drip before flooding. I've also had instances a few times where I've got a dry wick where the coil is, when there was still plenty of juice in the dripper and in the ends of the wick. This has only happened a few times, and I'm thinking it has something to do with the air bubbles screwing the ability of the juice to wick down the ekowool. I know it's not a choked wick or a hotspot of any kind, it's just like the juice randomly refuses to move for a little bit.
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A pen torch will stiffen the wick up. The fraying wont be AS bad. I use 2mm Eko with .32 kanthal to re wick my Evods 5/4 1.9-2.1Ω. I run a paperclip up the wick thru the hollow center and wrap around that. It wicks nicely. 2mm has a tuffer time with high VG 50/50 is ok anything higher and I am getting try hits.
I am really impressed with ekowook in my DID and RSST.. it wicks better than regular silica and much easier to set up than ss mesh. The vape is super quiet and sooo smooth! Since it works well at higher resistance, I can use my gennys on my Provari's and get the same vape as a genny with a subohm coil on a mech (the vape is different but just as good) So now my genesis rba's aren't confined to just ss mesh and mechs
Eko wicks well enough to wrap and dangle in genesis? WOW if it does. has anyone done a "vertical wick test" ala Pbusardo style?
Its wicks extremely well and it's not quite as positional as mesh. With ekowool a genesis isn't near as prone to leaking when it's not upright. Its also a very forgiving in a coil...meaning as long as there is proper coil to wick contact, it will work fine. There's also no pesky shorts or need for oxidizing like ss mesh requires. I'll post a pic when I get back to my laptop.
it doesn't really need that long tail and see how sloopy the coil is? well it still blew me away (and that's not easy to do nowadays). I've since rewicked and recoiled it with a single strand of ekowool, not doubled as in the pic.. it is working and wicking just as well. Also, another advantage to ekowool over mesh, the juice in the tank stays clear and doesn't get darker with time and refills. Plus did I mention that it's so damn easy to setup? LOL
I still like and will use mesh, it gives a different vape and flavor but ekowool will be going into all but one of my gennys now.
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Here is a pic of my current setup of a single strand of ekowool in my Rsst. The coil is a bit neater. I used 30g but next time I'm going to use 28g. And I haven't even tried cotton yet LOL
I noticed you were talking about torching the ekowool to prevent fraying... see how it frays inside the tank? I think that's a good thing and helps with wicking. So no torching necessary.
I noticed you were talking about torching the ekowool to prevent fraying... see how it frays inside the tank? I think that's a good thing and helps with wicking. So no torching necessary.
JUICEY! I am a Fat Bottom Coil man myself. Rewicking a BCC I use under 1/2 inch of wick, Fraying sucks when making and installing a coil in a BCC but after the lid is on a lil fraying helps. Ekowool got me off of cotton. It is that good Flavor and useage wise.
I'm using cotton in mico coils on my kayfun lite, spheroid and igo-l with great success. I tried silica in a micro coil in the kayfun and like cotton better. When I change the wick in the RSST, I'm going to try cotton.. what I meant was, never tried cotton in a genesis.
I'm not saying I like ekowool better than mesh in my gennys.. but I like it just as well and in a different way. And it has all the added benefits I listed above.
Here's a video of silica in a genesis (zap) he's using regular silica but it's the same principle and I think the ekowool wicks better than regular silica because of it's weave.
In reference to the OP's first question, ekowool is amazing. I use it exclusively to build my igo-L and rebuild kanger protanks. It works exactly the same, if not slightly better than silica, and allegedly it is better for you. I believe it is because instead of breaking into 'shards' as silica does, it breaks down into larger, thread-like pieces. It does get a bit fiddly if you cut it and it starts fraying, it will come totally undone on you pretty quick while you are wrapping. Unfortunately my only source for it is CANVAPES and they ship to Europe, but not the U.S. for some reason. Hope you like the stuff!
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