Eleaf GS Air Fan
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I'm sure you are not strong arming the coil in tightly, but, maybe back the coil off a turn or less in the base and see if
it makes a better seal between the air tube and the coil...I'm not real sharp when it comes to these things.
I defer to the genius from North Carolina!
And you've changed!
Well I know for certain it came out of an Ileaf box.
I am flummoxed and perplexed.
I use them both interchangeablely.. Sorry you're having problems with it.
Thanks. Well at least they're not terribly expensive so if I have to change it out again, it's not a huge loss. I just want to know what happened to the darned thing.
Oh, that. Yes, I'm getting my "professional" on since tomorrow starts the work week. Ugh.
Wow, those do look very similar to GS Air coils. I just did some checking around, though, and they are a lot more expensive.
Yeah, I looked at the egrip coils a while back too just in case I needed a substitute and yowzers! I hope I don't.
Wow, you are right, the no chimney look comes with a higher price!
If it was me, I would add another o-ring from a used coil to the bottol and see if it's an
issue with the distance between top seal and air tube.
Actually...I do, I'm a Soul man!
Me too! But I'm a girl.[emoji4]
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THAT is brilliant!!!! [emoji106][emoji5]️[emoji12]
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This afternoon, I rebuilt my first GS Air coil. I used a 14 gauge needle and did 7 wraps. It ohmed out to 1.53 ohms, which is about what I was shooting for (but more about this later). This is the first time I've ever used rayon. I have about a lifetime's supply of Japanese organic cotton, but everyone has been raving about rayon, so thought I'd give it a try. After reading some threads on rayon, I tried to really pack it in and use a lot more than cotton. The hardest part of the whole rebuilding operation was just holding Cheech's magic gauze around it and getting the cap on straight. I had to take the cap off a couple of times to get it on right.
I'm vaping on it right now and it's great! Lots of vapor and really great taste. It was about 10 hits, though, before I actually started getting much taste. Part of that was figuring out how many watts to use on it, and probably the other had to do with the rayon wick.
The big head scratcher was the ohms reading. As mentioned above, after wrapping the coil and assembling it I got an ohm's reading on my meter of 1.53. However, after putting the coil on the GS Air base and putting that back on the tank, my iStick reads 1.3 ohms. I checked the reading on my Vamo, and it is also 1.3. My MVP 20W reads it as 1.2 ohms. So I took the tank off and put it back on the ohms meter, and it now reads 1.3 ohms. I've never had the ohms go down like that when rebuilding T3S coils, so I can't figure out what happened.
Incidentally, this is pretty similar to rebuilding T3S coils (they are the same as protank coils). The only addition is that cap on top and the liner. I'm thinking that these rebuilt coils could actually last a lot longer than a stock coil simply because they would be very easy to dry burn. Once you take the cap off, you can actually see the coil. You can't with the dual coils. I had mixed success with that. One I dry burned turned out great and it was like having a new coil. The second gave me the worst burnt hit I've ever experienced in my life, so that bottom coil that I couldn't see must have been pretty messed up. These single coils you should be able to dryburn, rewick, replace the liner if need be, and reuse until the coil part breaks.
I'm vaping on it right now and it's great! Lots of vapor and really great taste. It was about 10 hits, though, before I actually started getting much taste. Part of that was figuring out how many watts to use on it, and probably the other had to do with the rayon wick.
The big head scratcher was the ohms reading. As mentioned above, after wrapping the coil and assembling it I got an ohm's reading on my meter of 1.53. However, after putting the coil on the GS Air base and putting that back on the tank, my iStick reads 1.3 ohms. I checked the reading on my Vamo, and it is also 1.3. My MVP 20W reads it as 1.2 ohms. So I took the tank off and put it back on the ohms meter, and it now reads 1.3 ohms. I've never had the ohms go down like that when rebuilding T3S coils, so I can't figure out what happened.
Incidentally, this is pretty similar to rebuilding T3S coils (they are the same as protank coils). The only addition is that cap on top and the liner. I'm thinking that these rebuilt coils could actually last a lot longer than a stock coil simply because they would be very easy to dry burn. Once you take the cap off, you can actually see the coil. You can't with the dual coils. I had mixed success with that. One I dry burned turned out great and it was like having a new coil. The second gave me the worst burnt hit I've ever experienced in my life, so that bottom coil that I couldn't see must have been pretty messed up. These single coils you should be able to dryburn, rewick, replace the liner if need be, and reuse until the coil part breaks.
Well that sounds simple enough, but seriously, what do you think happened to the chimney? Factory defect? I love a good mystery.
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