Eleaf GS Air Fan

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Cloudmann

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I don't put anything in the water, just hot tap water and the machine will heat that up through the process.
It's scary how hot the water gets running in those things!
My advice is to take a couple of gunky coils and put them in for one cycle, maybe 5 minutes and check
how they coil looks then...I'm lazy, so the least amount of time is best.
This way you can gauge what length of time you want to run it...I only use soap on my vintage razor blades.
Everything else is just water!
About 10-20% pure grain alcohol (everclear) or 15-30% vodka (no need for top shelf, cheap stuff works just as well) added to the water helps a lot. It all evaporates off so there's no residue or anything... speeds the water evaporation, too.
 

LynnNC

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About 10-20% pure grain alcohol (everclear) or 15-30% vodka (no need for top shelf, cheap stuff works just as well) added to the water helps a lot. It all evaporates off so there's no residue or anything... speeds the water evaporation, too.
Thanks for the tip!
 

Cloudmann

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Incidentally, don't use straight PGA or vodka... it won't light up or anything, but it evaporates so much in the cleaner that you get nothing but tons of condensation... the liquid level drops by about a third. That heat really evaporates pure alcohol.
 

Cheechako

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Ok thanks! I put in some nautilus mini coils in it first just to see if I could clean them. Inspects sent me about 50 coils today to rebuild. Most are ST Mini OCC coils but there were a few Air coils in there. I'm rebuilding these for myself.
Your dance card is full!
 
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Cheechako

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Something like that! :lol::lol::lol:

I'm going to build half with nickel and the other half with Kanthal.
I bow to the Coil Queen!
I am unworthy...

2zeyt77.gif
 
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Cheechako

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You really need to stop that tihs!! :lol::lol::lol: I'm not even a queen in my own little world! :?:
Why should you not be Queen in this one?
I'm sure the folks you are blessing with your talents are more than grateful and think you are a Queen, as do we all!:thumbs:
 

Chemtx

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Cloudmann

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Yeah, that sounds pretty logical in theory.
BUT, did any of you try to remove the top of the coil. I am not sure what it is called but it is like a very tight fit stock pot cover.
With a plier, I was able to remove this "dish" from top of the housing and reveal all open access to inside. I used a plier grabbing firmly on the small short chimney pipe in the middle on top, pried it off easily. Only that I struggled to put it back and finally did it after a while. Did it on a brand new coil and this one I put in use so it will be a few days before I attempt to do it again. That is also the logical way how this coil was made as I doubt machines were able to insert coil and wick from bottom.
How about that? Works like a champ. I used a pair of needle tip pliers, put them on the chimney sideways, and pried it off. Pretty easy. To pop it back on, I inseted the cap on one side and used a pair of pliers on the other to pop it in place. Holds fine. I imagine the cap and housing can survive a couple dozen rebuilds like this before the cap fits loosely. It'll make the wicking process easier, as the wick won't need to be packed tightly and crammed into the base. Still, the vertical coil will require installation twice if you want to test for hot spots... the coil still has to be wicked outside of the housing. Much easier, though... good find. I didn't see the seam to the cap at all. The new design makes a bit more sense than on the original GS Air coils and the larger juice channels certainly work better.

This pic is looking straight down the throat of the gutted coil housing. Tons of space... relatively speaking. Notice there'ss no wick material inside... that's how clean it came with me pulling the wick out with my bare fingers. Not bad.

Thanks for the heads up @Mrmik !

6132015225043.jpg
 
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Cloudmann

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Heck... with all this room, I might try my hand at a 1.0 ohm build with a larger diameter coil and some .28 awg kanthal or tightly coiled .26 awg, maybe (for the extra surface area). Seems to be enough air flow to support it, but not any build too much lower. Still should work great on my Mini iStick 20 watt... it fires down to 0.85 to 0.9 ish ohms before the low resistance safety cutoff kicks in. Might be interesting... just for giggles. I'll give it a shot next week. School and work have me pretty sapped this week.

Poop. Now I need to stock up on a couple more packs of these as to have a stockpile of rebuildable coils in my arsenal.

If only the new Subtank coils were this easy... talk about a pain!
 
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