Eleaf istick 50 watt vs Sigelei 50 watt v2

[JeremyR]

None of those will even touch the istick 50w. The i50 is smaller and will last 3 times longer than the others.

I don't have the others but here's a comparison to a zmax.

 

[TXBiker]

Although ismoka made big improvements in the 30w and 50w it still dosen't regulate power as well as the yihi and dna. It does boost and buck well, battery life is great and the 510 is much improved. My 30w Beyang reads my build more accurately though, my istick is .2 off of my build. I am simplifying my vaping a step at a time and not having to deal with batteries and hauling spares around has been great so far. Now all I carry is a tiny matchbox sized box with premade coils and wick and a 30ml bottle of juice.

 

[roxynoodle]

Thanks you guys, this information was helpful. Although I think the Sig and IPV seem overall better in certain areas, the larger size turns me off a bit. What's the battery life on them? Is battery life on the Sig and IPV based off the mah of the battery you put in it? Sorry I know that's a noob question lol but I want to make sure.

Its going to be dependent on the battery and your resistance. Bear in mind a 0.5 ohm build pulls twice the amps of a 1.0 ohm build. And a 2500mah battery will last longer than a 2100mah battery.

I have to say I'm very impressed with the battery life of the istick 50W. I'm getting longer battery life with that than my Sigelei 100W at similar resistances.

 

[Zakillah]

Both my IStick30W and 50W read Ohms just fine and the voltage output is pretty accurate as well as seen in PBusardos (and other) reviews. I dont get what the yihi and DNA boards do better, really.

 

[JeremyR]

Dido, no imr battery can match the discharge curve of the lipos in the istick. Its so flat it makes the imrs look like a 10/12 pitch roof.

I suspect the .1 off that some report has to do with the new designed spring loaded pin. Its really not an issue.

Istick goes to 10v and has no voltage drop even with a near dead battery.. Imrs start to show fade by 3.6v.

Just sayin

Bucks and boosts well, but doesn't regulate well??

 

[JHDublin]

I bought an iStick 50W a while ago but only got around to start using it today, been using it all day with a Lemo Drop just using the pre-installed coil it came with at 1.2 ohm, my other MOD is an Evic Surpreme with the full size Lemo and the funny thing is that I bought the iStick to have as a spare at work but now I think it's going to be my carry around and leave the Evic at work instead.
I find it a very tidy design and for the 7 hours I have used it today the battery is not showing any signs og going down.

 

[Zakillah]

Yeah, the 10V are impressive as well. Plenty of fiddle room for higher resistance coils. Why Subohm when you can crank the voltage up?

 

[JeremyR]

Guess I neglected to leave this behind on my last post.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ion/656162-eleaf-istick-50w-owners-group.html

 

[TXBiker]

Both my IStick30W and 50W read Ohms just fine and the voltage output is pretty accurate as well as seen in PBusardos (and other) reviews. I dont get what the yihi and DNA boards do better, really.

DNA and YiHi regulate power better. They are more accurate and consistent. My custom DNA 40 box I built will run circles around my 50w Istick. Don't get me wrong there's nothing wrong with the Istick it works fine I got mine for work. I'll prolly throw a subtank mini on it and be happy. I chase flavor since I quit smoking and can taste again. My modded Orchid v3 on the DNA produces killer flavor with a .6 dual but will burn a little on the Istick set to the same wattage. How low of a build do you use on your 50w? Mine's fine from .8 up.

 

[Carnage9270]

DNA and YiHi regulate power better. They are more accurate and consistent. My custom DNA 40 box I built will run circles around my 50w Istick. Don't get me wrong there's nothing wrong with the Istick it works fine I got mine for work. I'll prolly throw a subtank mini on it and be happy. I chase flavor since I quit smoking and can taste again. My modded Orchid v3 on the DNA produces killer flavor with a .6 dual but will burn a little on the Istick set to the same wattage. How low of a build do you use on your 50w? Mine's fine from .8 up.

Now throw that dna 40 in the istick 50w and you have one of the best products on the market. Form factor is perfect, and it will have the best new gimmicky chip on the planet. Kidding on the gimmicky thing. I own a dna 40 and frankly the temp control...worthless imo but the chip itself is awesome outside of TC. It's like a dna 30 with 10 extra watts! lol

 

[TXBiker]

Now throw that dna 40 in the istick 50w and you have one of the best products on the market. Form factor is perfect, and it will have the best new gimmicky chip on the planet. Kidding on the gimmicky thing. I own a dna 40 and frankly the temp control...worthless imo but the chip itself is awesome outside of TC. It's like a dna 30 with 10 extra watts! lol

Sure would be a good one then. Lipo battery life and a capable chip and small. My custom has two of the three I can't get the small with a 5300mAh square lipo. I didn't mess with tc much either not big on nickle wire.

 

[Kyi]

Can someone explain buck and boost and why I would want that or how it works?

I think I'm probably gonna get the iStick for the size and battery life and since the reading possibly being slightly off doesn't bother me. Removable battery doesn't concern me either.

 

[TXBiker]

In a nutshell boost and buck is what gives the mod the adjustability and in the istick's case I believe is from 2v to 10v. So ya if you want to adjust your power up or down it's necessary. It's a good device even with it's little quirks. At the moment it's getting more use than my custom box. The lipo's should last a while and need a couple of cycles from charged to low voltage cut off before they really shine.

 

[JeremyR]

You mentioned the istick burmed hotter than the dna. I bet the istick is actual power; single battery mods are weak. Im betting It burns because your not really getting full power once your battery starts to drop.. Many tests are run with full batteries. What about dna40 with a battery at 3.8 or 3.7, 3.6, or lower.. The istick is stable power All the way to cut off. I was actually shocked that it was still perfect and metered right on point with 1 bar battery, after 3 days of use at 30w, 15mls.

You may want to review the oscope tests on the istick 50w compared to some others.

Box Mod oscilloscope power check (YouTubeirkOberhaus) - Album on Imgur

 

[TXBiker]

You mentioned the istick burmed hotter than the dna. I bet the istick is actual power; single battery mods are weak. Im betting It burns because your not really getting full power once your battery starts to drop.. Many tests are run with full batteries. What about dna40 with a battery at 3.8 or 3.7, 3.6, or lower.. The istick is stable power All the way to cut off. I was actually shocked that it was still perfect and metered right on point with 1 bar battery, after 3 days of use at 30w, 15mls.

You may want to review the oscope tests on the istick 50w compared to some others.

Box Mod oscilloscope power check (YouTubeirkOberhaus) - Album on Imgur

Na it's not battery man. My DNA40 uses a 1s 65c 5300 lipo. It get's pulled and charged weekly. When I swapped the orchid between the 2 both were freshly charged. I rewicked earlier in the day so it wasn't that. The one I got is simply not as accurate. It compares well to my other Istick 30w and the 2 beyang 30w with imr's in them. Numbers look good on in that link but I'd like to see the sine from those results. Also the DNA wasn't represented just yihi and whatever smok and cloupor uses.

 

[JeremyR]

Oh geez, your running a lipo to that, my bad.
I must have missed that...

I can see not all of the isticks being exactly the same.

 

[TXBiker]

Ya I gave up on 18650's when I started building my own mods. The link you provided only gave the output numbers which is well and fine. Where the variation comes into play is how the power is delivered which would show up in the wave. My DNA will show a smooth consistent pattern and the istick might be a little looser. Minor inconsistencies in output aren't a big deal but how a chip delivers and regulates makes the difference.

 

[AC81]

Can you get a really good sub-ohm from either of them though? With a dripper? I met a guy who told me if I want to drip I gotta get a Sigeli or IPV 150 watt and use at least 70 watts at 0.2 to get a true good sub-ohm. Fact or fiction?

 

[JeremyR]

That's super sub ohm. Anything under an ohm on a mech is subohm. Over 20w would have been considered sub ohm on a mech.

If you want over 50w get the sig150.

 

[mamabear15]

A little random opinion post here. I've got the iStick 50 as well as a Tesla 120w (compare to a Sigelei, different chip but amazing how consistent the vape is between my Tesla & my roomie's Sig 150...but that's a different post, lol) - anyway - which is better? I LOVE THEM BOTH!!!

Ohm range is close to the same, at least on the lower end- iStick 0.2-5.0, Tesla 0.18-3.0

Power is obviously different, 50w vs 120w, however unless you're super sub ohming (I mean this as under .3ish) I doubt you'll use the difference. (I know OP knows this, I say it for others who may read this thread.)

Battery life is actually about the same. Let me clarify what exactly I mean here. Tesla is a dual 18650, I'm personally using mostly Samsung 25r's (although I also have a set of authentic Sony VTC5s that are really not much different on battery life) - iStick, of course, is what it is. Currently I've got a 0.5 clapton coil Lemo 2 rta on the iStick, and a 0.5 dual micro coil Tobh rda on the Tesla. (Yes, I can drip on the iStick & use the tank on the Tesla, I just usually don't.) Either will last me from 5am til about 6-7pm, and yes I vape way too much as everyone is quick to point out. Lol.

When the batts die, either mod can still be used - iStick via pass thru USB charging, Tesla of course via changing the batts out. However battery safety means that for the iStick I don't use the pass thru much, and that for the Tesla I actually keep 3 sets so that they never, absolutely never go straight off the charger into the mod...they always sit hours first.

In my experience both read ohms accurately. I've built from 0.3 up to 2.8, singles, duals, quads, micro, spaced, nano, twisted kanthal, clapton, you name it... There's never been above a 0.1 difference between them, nor between they & my ohms meter, and even that much of a discrepancy happens rarely. (Especially when you consider both mods round to the tenths place! Each time I've seen a different reading, the meter has said either x.x4 or x.x6 ohms.)

I will say the iStick seems to run a bit higher than its displayed voltage. This is just my opinion, because if I swap the attys & duplicate v/w settings, it seems just a bit warmer on the iStick than the Tesla.

Both of these have been dropped before, BTW, and they both still work just fine actually, neither have even so much as a scratch, but I'm afraid to say that out loud!

At the end of the day the choice is yours. The Sigelei 50 you're looking at (or any other external battery device) would mean more to keep up with, in terms of batteries/charger/et al, as well as almost certainly a larger device. The iStick frankly people don't seem to think is as "cool" or as "beastly" of a mod, but it does all the same things and frankly is about half the price or less once you add up everything you need to make it turn on. Makes it my going-out mod, and the Tesla my "I wanna feel like a bad*** sitting on my couch" mod. But that's just me I'd recommend any of these 3 devices -iStick 50, any Sigelei, or the Tesla that I love - with no qualms whatsoever.
Vape on!!