Electrical Wiring Questions

[punchy187]

Well I have realized I need to use 20 amp switches instead of the 3 amp switches. The 3 amp switches are a lot smaller and cosmetically look better but they don't last very long so that was most of the problem. Even though when I check the amperage when the switch is on it never goes any higher than 3.89 amps eventually things stop working because of the switch malfunctioning I believe. I am only using 20 amp switches now and have everything connected with test leads and everything works the way it is supposed to but there is still some questions I have electrically speaking. The switch is rated 12 volt 20 amp and has a blue illuminated light on it and I also connected a white LED light for the end of the mod. I uploaded a schematic I made of the switch and labeled the terminals to help with my questions. There is no schematic or instructions on the switch or the package it came with and every switch seems to use different terminology and some only like to label some of the terminals. Not very convenient for someone like me that knows next to nothing about electricity. This switch is labeled (1) POWER (2) ACC (3) GROUND. When I first connected the switch I connected the positive side of the battery to the (1) POWER then connected the (2) ACC to the atomizer pin and connected the (3) GROUND from the negative side of the battery and then from the (3) GROUND to the atomizer housing. Then the white LED to the (2) ACC and then to the negative side of the battery. The blue illuminated light in the switch worked when I turned it on and so did the white LED light but it fried the battery. So with a new battery I hooked it up exactly the same except I didn't use the (3) GROUND terminal on the switch and just connected the negative side of the battery to the atomizer housing and then from the negative side of the battery to the white LED light. Now everything works correctly except the blue illuminated light on the switch doesn't turn on when you turn the switch on. Is there a way to connect it to get it to illuminate again without frying the battery? If I connect the (3) GROUND terminal to the negative side of the battery will the blue illuminated light on the switch work without frying the battery? Last time I ran the wire from the negative side of the battery though the (3) GROUND and then to the atomizer housing and that is what fried the battery I think.

Secondly the other switches I used were labeled COMMON and NORMALLY OPEN or NORMALLY CLOSED which is different from this switch. I would imagine that ACC stands for Alternating Current? Ecig mods use DC Direct Current I thought, so is it possible by the way you connect things for it to either be connect using AC or DC currents? Is that why the battery fried because it was connected using AC Alternating Current because the white LED light never turned off when I turned the switch off it just got dimmer.

So in summary...

1. Can I connect my mod correctly and still get the blue illuminated LED light on the switch to work without frying the battery again? If so, how?
2. Is it possible to use either DC or AC depending on the way you connect the switch to everything else?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[Java_Az]

A switch Rated @ 12 volts 20 amps would be a DC switch. If it was AC it would be rated to 110 -240 volts. Ground going to the negative side of the battery is correct and the LED should work without frying the battery, it might be a bit dim since it is made to work @ 12 volts not 7.4 or 3.7 . I would check for a short in the mod as a source of the battery failing.

AC current will not work with standard atomizers they are made to work off of DC current only . The ACC on the switch Stands for accessories not AC current.

 

[Sicarius]

To simplify the explanation I have stolen this from elsewhere. Note ACC and PWR swapped around, but principle remains the same.

 

[5cardstud]

Madvapes has a lot of tutorials and wiring diagrams that could help you in your build.