Engineers... a question.

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AttyPops

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Engineers... a question. In fact, probably a dumb question. I'm letting the cat out of the bag (a bit) on my idea, but I'm not an EE.

How much energy would you estimate is used in a "typical" hit on a 510 atomizer? For discussion purposes, lets say a hit is 3 seconds long. Let's also assume, 5 volt vape.

Note that this is not necessarily a battery, could be a direct passthrough.

Given a capacitor's power curve, what size cap is needed "per hit"?

I'm unsure of how to calculate this. I think my electronics books somewhere will tell me how many joules of energy this really is. I would guess it's about 30 watt-seconds, but how do I translate this to a cap value?

Thanks in advance.
 

Hoosier

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A Watt is 1 joule per second, so if E=CVV/2 then P=CVV/2t.

Unsure what power curve you refer to. Do you mean charge curve?

I think you are trying to provide power to the atty without being limited by power source current limits. Seems you'd want to figure for worst case in your sizing, so 30W seems applicable for your example.
 

AttyPops

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Thanks so far...

power curve refers to the discharge of the power to the atty. It's my understanding that a cap won't discharge through a resistor (the atty) uniformly. I assumed I would need some "extra" to account for the lower parts of the curve that are useless.

3 seconds at 10 watts per second is what I'm after. What size capacitor does that translate to when discharged ( after charging with a 5 volt potential difference) through a normal 510 atty? (about 3 ohms).


Using your 1st equation,
So... 10 watts = (C * 5 * 5) / 2?
20 = 25C
C = 20/25 = .8 joules for 3 seconds duration so 2.4 ??what?? Is that correct?

so what size uf/pf/nf cap is needed? Obviously not 2.4F, the cap would be as big as a house. so :?::unsure::(

If a watt is a joule per second, then 10 watts at 3 seconds = 30 joules. So what does that mean in uf/pf/nf?
 
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Hoosier

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Um, I guess I should have noted the variables.
E= Energy (joules), C=Capacitance (in farads), V=Voltage, P=Power (in Watts)

I think you mean the time constant curve. I had to look up the time constant as I just use 60%... One time constant is the time to charge a capacitor to 63.2% of the supply voltage and a capacitor is considered fully charge at 5 time constants (99.2% of supply voltage). So caps charge quick early and taper down, and discharge is much the same in that it discharges quickly and tapers down slower.

Now the balancing act comes from the fact that the time constant is smaller for smaller caps and higher for bigger caps if voltage and resistance remain constant. (I am assuming the atty and battery, or passthrough, are constants.) If you are looking for that instant BAM of power into the atty, then you don't want to go too big.

While searching around for the actual time constant, that I haven't used since school, I found a site that might give you some better insight than my poor teaching skills could allow. Linky It is geared toward audio, but does have a couple of nice embedded calculators and an overview of the tradeoffs in capacitors.

These rusty rules of thumbs I use come from schooling in electronics and ending up doing structural/material engineering type stuff and doing electronics as a hobby in my basement. The last time I had to get precise was when a neighbor poorly installed a ham and I had to build a filter to get his crud out of my stuff. (And to stop the, then, wife from telling my sons that the strange voices coming over the stereo and TV was ghosts that were going to get them.)

If it were me, I'd rough a value out, based on worst case values of atty and supply and then get a few around that value and give them a try.
 

AttyPops

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PS: Just know - If you're thinking it at LEAST one other is doing the same at this very moment. One must move with their thoughts or forever be out done. IE: Ya snooze Ya Lose..... :closedeyes::vapor:

Thanks for the caution... but using a capacitor is, in itself, not a new idea. Or simply replacing a battery with a cap is not new either as far as I can tell. The rest I have not explained yet.... thanks for the link.

Everyone, thanks, esp. Hoosier. Although he acts like a teacher...lol... never answers a question, just explains everything... lolz

And, Hoosier, I think that is a compliment btw, and I mean it in the best of ways. Thanks for all the effort guys.
 

bigblue30

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Attypops,

I do like the way you think, and yes that is also a complement. You are correct; you would need a few farads to make this work.

As soon as you hit the fire button the voltage from the cap would start dropping, you would need even a bigger cap to make up for that.

How about this… Think of using a clock pendulum… when it swings left it charges a cap to the output voltage you desire ie 4.5 volts. When it swings right it dumps that voltage to the atty (or load). And it does it at 300 kHz (300,000 times a second). The “dump” time is very short so a small farad cap would work.

Since the frequency of charge is so large you could also use an inductor coil….voltage across the coil would induce a “field” around the coil and when you removed the voltage the “field” would induce a current back into the coil.

The above idea is the basics for how the chip (PTR08060W) in my Evercool mod works.

This is also why it is much more efficient that a regulator chip and runs so much cooler. It does not burn off the excess voltage.
 

AttyPops

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Attypops,

I do like the way you think, and yes that is also a complement. You are correct; you would need a few farads to make this work.

As soon as you hit the fire button the voltage from the cap would start dropping, you would need even a bigger cap to make up for that.

How about this… Think of using a clock pendulum… when it swings left it charges a cap to the output voltage you desire ie 4.5 volts. When it swings right it dumps that voltage to the atty (or load). And it does it at 300 kHz (300,000 times a second). The “dump” time is very short so a small farad cap would work.

Since the frequency of charge is so large you could also use an inductor coil….voltage across the coil would induce a “field” around the coil and when you removed the voltage the “field” would induce a current back into the coil.

The above idea is the basics for how the chip (PTR08060W) in my Evercool mod works.

This is also why it is much more efficient that a regulator chip and runs so much cooler. It does not burn off the excess voltage.

Well... now ya did it. That is similar to the idea I had, but my idea was actually this (cat's really out of the bag now.....):

Yes, an inductance coil. The idea is to charge the cig for 1 or 2 "hits" at a time. The coil would replace the ash tray of traditional analog smoking. I call it the "perpetual" since you never have to charge a battery. Made for desktop/tabletop use (although not limited to that...l could see a car adapter version). Better than a usb passthrough since there is NO WIRE.

Features:

1) a mini led that shows "ready", or maybe off/1 hit/2 hits... of charge available.
2) waterproof/resistant cap with resistor combo that prevents "instant" discharge. Safety feature. If someone drops it in their coffee, I don't want them to get blown across the room picking it up.
3) High quality capacitors, that can take the constant use.
4) RFID or similar proximity sensor in the "charge tray" that knows when the PV is near, so it is only "full-on" then.
5) possible port on the end for a usb type cable and (optionally/possibly) a RS232 or other comm link. This would require an embedded microprocessor (like a small 8 pin PIC).

The thing is an electromagnetic "power leach" that charges a cap as it is passed through a magnetic field. I'm not sure you couldn't charge it by passing it behind a traditional CRT tv set or other electronics.

I don't even have a breadboard prototype yet. I have some spare parts, but not what I need. I'm not sure it is practical since the charge time may be prohibitive. If it takes 60 seconds to charge, it won't be practical.

Also have to worry about safety of strong electromagnetic fields (pacemakers..... whatever). The idea is to make it workable by having a minimal charge. Not the type of thing that would sit long and charge... might as well use a battery for that.

Ideally, I would like the device to charge for 2 or 3 hits in just a couple of seconds. Will settle for 1 hit. That's A LOT to expect. Trickle charge is one thing, storing 30 watt-seconds (joules?) of charge per hit is another. I say 30 since the power curve of a cap diminishes (as we all mentioned above) so really 7 watts @ 3 seconds is 21 watts. Also, the form factor would have to be like a cig, so maybe a mega-battery sized thing or smaller.

The processor would monitor charge, stop charging when full, count hits.... Could even turn it into a self-monitoring "quit plan" that would allow so many hits per hour... gradually reducing them.

There could even be a "smart" charge-tray that communicated with it (again, this can be done with RF). Hell, you could have a smart device that connected to your computer and monitored usage. The "cig" could get a time sync from the tray.

Ideas, Ideas. But practicality matters. It all boils down to... can you electromagnetically induce a charge in a capacitor within a few seconds and store enough charge for a 510 atty "hit" without requiring a magnetic field so large that it would float the space shuttle?
 
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