epower voltage

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harmonic

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ok i thought the epower was a totally regulated device so i did some tests and here is what i got:

partly used battery no load:
100_0801.jpg
epower no load:
100_0802.jpg
epower with a sapphire load:
100_0809.jpg
and epower with a dual coil:
100_0807.jpg

i do not know for sure but this *might* be regulated until the battery falls under 3.7 volts. i dont have a battery that is draned right now but i've tested that and gotten even lower volts under load. if somebody wants that too i'll try and do it again once i drain the battery some more.
:vapor:
 
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pineappledan

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you are completely right. the epower is 'drop out' regulated at 3.7 volts. that doesn't mean the actual voltage will not equal more than 3.7 volts. the epower can 'peak' at 4.2 volts. a voltage regulated system would have a specific voltage 'tolerance' that cannot be any more or less than the assigned voltage. in short if you freshly charge your batt and ring it out while holding down the button, you could get 4.2 volts. if the batt is near the end of it's charge cycle, you could read 3.8, 3.7 volts, but never 3.6 volts.
 

Gristle

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you are completely right. the epower is 'drop out' regulated at 3.7 volts. that doesn't mean the actual voltage will not equal more than 3.7 volts. the epower can 'peak' at 4.2 volts. a voltage regulated system would have a specific voltage 'tolerance' that cannot be any more or less than the assigned voltage. in short if you freshly charge your batt and ring it out while holding down the button, you could get 4.2 volts. if the batt is near the end of it's charge cycle, you could read 3.8, 3.7 volts, but never 3.6 volts.

I don't think I'm understanding what you posted. Harmonics pictures clearly show the voltage is well below 3.7 volts, under load.
 

harmonic

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thanks dan but nope fresh full battery reads the same as pic 2.
oh wait. i was little off. fresh hot battery is 4.22v but in epower no load is 3.67
i'm not trying to argue what it is supposed to do but this is documenting what the one i have does. i didnt believe it either but the pics dont lie.

edit: the battery i been using all day is 3.89 bare and 3.57 in the epower no load i'll see about some load pics on this battery after dinner lol
 
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Titan1x77

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We tested my E-power at the vape meet and with a somewhat fresh battery inside the E-power it came to 4.1, that'd be after about an hour or so of use. I'm shocked at the DC load numbers, Ive been using practically nothing but DC's for my E-power for months now, Wonders what I've been missing out on.

Now with these new VV Ego batts, that power up to 4.2V's, what kind of voltage will we be getting to power a DC with that?
 

robl45

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not true, i assure you that it can read under 3.7 volts, it can go down to 0 volts although that is not very good for the battery, but 3.5 3.4 etc is quite common.

aside from the dead battery voltage, they certainly can and will drop below 3.7 under load, the better the battery, the more it will sustain a higher voltage before dropping.

reason i love my riva batteries is they are cheap and not regulated to 3.2 volts like most.


you are completely right. the epower is 'drop out' regulated at 3.7 volts. that doesn't mean the actual voltage will not equal more than 3.7 volts. the epower can 'peak' at 4.2 volts. a voltage regulated system would have a specific voltage 'tolerance' that cannot be any more or less than the assigned voltage. in short if you freshly charge your batt and ring it out while holding down the button, you could get 4.2 volts. if the batt is near the end of it's charge cycle, you could read 3.8, 3.7 volts, but never 3.6 volts.
 

WillyB

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you are completely right. the epower is 'drop out' regulated at 3.7 volts. that doesn't mean the actual voltage will not equal more than 3.7 volts. the epower can 'peak' at 4.2 volts. a voltage regulated system would have a specific voltage 'tolerance' that cannot be any more or less than the assigned voltage. in short if you freshly charge your batt and ring it out while holding down the button, you could get 4.2 volts. if the batt is near the end of it's charge cycle, you could read 3.8, 3.7 volts, but never 3.6 volts.
That has to be one of the most convoluted things I've even read.

The only thing that matters are 'what volts are we vaping at', loaded volts.

if you freshly charge your batt and ring it out while holding down the button, you could get 4.2 volts. if the batt is near the end of it's charge cycle, you could read 3.8, 3.7 volts, but never 3.6 volts
HUH?


@ Harmonic

You went to all that trouble to present some loaded readings, why didn't you start with a fully charged cell which would have made your tests much more meaningful?

But at least folks can now forget all this 'regulated' stuff.
 

squirrel64

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I have two differnt vv mods. One I bought and the other homemade. On the one I bought, I can turn it up to max 6 volts. Testing under load it shows 3.31. This is with a dual coil cart and fresh batteries. On my homemade, with switching regulator, if I turn to 4.2 volts, under load it shows 4.18. I think manufacturers should be required to include the loaded voltages as well
 

WillyB

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I have two differnt vv mods. One I bought and the other homemade. On the one I bought, I can turn it up to max 6 volts. Testing under load it shows 3.31. This is with a dual coil cart and fresh batteries. On my homemade, with switching regulator, if I turn to 4.2 volts, under load it shows 4.18. I think manufacturers should be required to include the loaded voltages as well
Well there you are probably hitting the VVPV's 2A limit. A naked single 18650 mod can provide more amps than that and will provide higher initial volts. The voltage would probably be correct and regulated if you used let's say an SLB510 or standard Boge carto which both at 6V would need slightly less than 2A.

I'm assuming the one you built has a regulator with a high amp rating, so that is not a limiting factor.
 

harmonic

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@ willyb thanks for your input. i'm glad to see somebody with your expertise pop in as this stuff is almost over my head lol i wonder if the epower issue is related to the current even though its not vv. but i still had the drop in volts with a sapphire carto so more i guess more test are in order...
i just used the battery i had on hand i thought it was pretty close to full but i had been vapin on it a little while... full battery yields similar results. i am making a connector to allow me to more easily hook up my meter then i'll try and find time to do more and post the pics but things been crazy here last couple days.
and i thought any battery even if not full would still show how the epower is reacting (or not as the case seems to be) to the load.
regardless of further testing its for sure not boosting or anything like that....
 

WillyB

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I like seeing tests like that, but a full charge can make a big difference.

With the E-Power I'd like to see first the volts of the naked cell, then the unload volts in the E-Power, then the loaded test.

An adapter doesn't have to be fancy, here's the one I made a while ago.

Load_test_.jpg


Just some solid core 18ga wire with a couple bare spots to clamp on my probes.

When you get around to re-testing you can compare your results to this.

14500_1.6ohm.jpg


That's a pair of standard TF14500 flames (in parallel, still the same voltage as a single) firing a 1.6Ω Jumbo DC. Note that is actually the 3rd activation. Figure true mAh at about ~1400.

Good luck in your quest for true knowledge with realworld tests. :)
 

ericdjobs

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These are fully regulated, meaning that 4.2V will be 4.2V even under load like the provari.

I highly doubt this claim.... I'd like to see some loaded testing to support this. THe GotVapes 'VV' battery posts are really starting to irk me..because (IMO) touting this device as 'VV' is only going to confuse people as to what true variable voltage really is. How is it even possible for a 3.7 battery that has an open circuit voltage of 3.7v (not 4.2 freshly charged) to throw out 4.2v with enough current to power an atty (i understand there are multiple ways to do this.. but I was under the impression that they are larger than the switch unit, and generate some amount of heat.. which the switch does not)... My understanding of electronics is new, and I just got 'into' this stuff because of e-cigs.. but it just doesn't seem possible to me given the size of the switch... but then again, i could be totally wrong!

As a side note, my e-power switch gives me battery voltage unloaded. No idea how you're getting 3.6v unloaded with a battery at 4v.. there must be two versions of the switch

BTW what version of the e-power is that? might help us figure out when the 'regulated' switch came into play.. is it the 14650 version? I'd like to note that my un-regulated e-power was purchased at madvapes and it's the 14650 version.


*edit here are some test results that I've run with some batteries and the e-power.. unloaded and loaded

doesn't look like it does any PWM/regulation so far, I'm getting pretty much the same voltage from an e-power that I do wiring up the carto directly to the same battery.

STOCK 14650 battery, open circuit voltage: 4.02
STOCK 14650 battery, wired directly to 2.0ohm carto: 3.35
STOCK 14650 battery, wired directly to 3.0ohm carto: 3.52
E-power voltage, no load: 4.01
E-power voltage, 2.0 ohm load: 3.33
E-power voltage, 3.0 ohm load: 3.48

***AW 14500 IMR Test results
open circuit battery: 4.22v
e-power(with 14500 IMR), no load: 4.21v
e-power(with 14500 IMR), 3.0 ohm load: 3.97v
e-power(with 14500IMR), 2.0 ohm load: 3.88v
 
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VapPornRules

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badkolo

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Please cut it out with the purposely misleading stuff, i dont appreciate it, not every customer is a super techy worrying about these things, plain and simple the vv ego does more then 1 voltage and thats variable. It clearly states 3 stage variable, there is no claims of voltages in between, there is no claim of 5volts or that it can do any increments inbetween, its printed as clear as day, 3 stage variable. So lets PLEASE try to watch what we say around here before making broad statements like that.

In regards to the epower and how it regulates, daniel would need to answer that, he deals with smoktek and can give a more proper response as to whats going on with the battery and the switch as im not to familiar with it like he is.
 
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