The watts should be that low because there is no airflow while your holding it. What temperature do you have it set for?nickel wire, single coil. The watts are low only when I push the button, I always set it at 40~60
The watts should be that low because there is no airflow while your holding it. What temperature do you have it set for?nickel wire, single coil. The watts are low only when I push the button, I always set it at 40~60
I think you might be misinterpreting the word "micro." Micro refers to the ID (inside diameter) of the coil...it has nothing to do with being compressed (contact) or spaced.
No if I take a hit in front of the mirror, I see the temperature rising until it reaches the set point. Then it shows temp protection and the watts kick down.. Then it flashes between temp protection and the coil temp until I'm done with the hit.
Sounds more like 200f.I'm using my new clr coil with 0.4 ti wire. I have a vtc and other 5 TC mods. Why with titanium wire at 200c the temperature is immediately reached and almost no vape is product?
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I'm so disappointed, no matter what RTA, RDA I use on this device, it always shows "Protection", I've tried two RDAs and two RTAs on it, with 0.5 to 0.15 ohm (with or without resistance lock in room temperature), all of them don't work. But they work perfectly fine on my rDNA40.....anyone knows how to fix it..? I'm about to throw it away....thanks!
I do not know of any reason why you cannot use micro coils. Contact coils are fine as well. And pulsing coils to very dull red is also not a problem as TiO2 does not form at the low temp of a dull glow as far as I can tell. Many do this for their builds. It is also the best way to clean gunk build up before rewicking.In the video tutorial about ti wires I can see only micro coils (touching). With ni I know micro coils are not a good thing. Can I use micro coils with titanium?
Have you upgraded your firmware? Are your coils touching eachother (contact coil) or not? Did you let your mod read the resistance of atty at room temp and then lock it in? Also what temp do you have set?nickel wire, single coil. The watts are low only when I push the button, I always set it at 40~60
The only issues I've heard of with ni is that the temp is ~20f off in temp. You're using ni200 yeah? That is a weird bug...I had this same problem using my STM with the Ni200 OCC's.. it's crazy frustrating.. I kept on increasing the temperature to try and correct the problem which worked for a bit but then it still hit the temperature ceiling of the mini and kept on reproducing the same problem!
I got so annoyed I threw out the nickel coil and went back to kanthal.. hoping someone can shed some light on the matter as well or Joyetech come up with a firmware update to fix this as I can advise that my Sigelei 75 runs exactly the same nickel set up STM without any issues at all..
I'd agree with first advice, but the second won't allow the device to read or guess the temp and resistance correctly. Also it shoul/will adjust the resistance back down after a few minutes.Try a .2 or .3 build, or fire your atty that's showing .07 for a few seconds, remove atty, hit fire button, reattach atty it'll likely read higher like .15 hit new coil and try it. I didn't have good results on .1 coils
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No. 200c. At 240 is OK but if the coil is dry, will I burn the cotton?Sounds more like 200f.
As long as the cotton is wet and can keep up it shouldn't burn. Cotton burns at 420f but I can run the ni200 vertical coils for my STM at 500f before they start to scorch.No. 200c. At 240 is OK but if the coil is dry, will I burn the cotton?
My firmware is 1.02. Should I upgraded to correct this problem?
I would definitely update and make sure your resistance is locked in at room temp. Also try different attys/builds to see if it is only w your current build that the vape is off. Barely getting any vapor is not something I've seen from anyone w any atomizer if all the steps are followed correctly... Having said that it could be a qc issue but I don't think it is, as I haven't seen many qc issues with the actual vapor production/computer chip in this device.No. 200c. At 240 is OK but if the coil is dry, will I burn the cotton?
My firmware is 1.02. Should I upgraded to correct this problem?
This is confusing to me. The original coil heads aren't rebuildable. The rebuildable ones are clr heads which are typically kanthal. They do sell clr ti heads. If you're using the originally installed coil I believe it is ni. You can check by removing it. It is engraved on the head. I don't use celsius, but 200c and the original head and in ni mode w the resistance tested at room temp then locked at room temp, the coil that is at room temp, I don't see why this is not working for you. It should be. Perhaps the coil is bad. If it is reaching temp too fast I'm guessing it is sensing the resistance is too high or too low to start with. But I've heard bad things about the heads that come with the tank.I'm vaping from a joyetech one mega so I'm expecting the original rebuildable coil works at the indicated temperature
It's all good lots of that going on I feel. Trying to be helpful loledit: damn, misread your post, just ignore
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for sure, they sell CLR-Ti. There are CL-Ti and CLR-Ti. Unfortunately most stores miss that and don't sell them![]()
View attachment 492909
I'm so disappointed, no matter what RTA, RDA I use on this device, it always shows "Protection", I've tried two RDAs and two RTAs on it, with 0.5 to 0.15 ohm (with or without resistance lock in room temperature), all of them don't work. But they work perfectly fine on my rDNA40.....anyone knows how to fix it..? I'm about to throw it away....thanks!