eVic-VT mini?

[scaredmice]

I showed it to a friend on mine last night.

1. Screw on the cold atomizer and the mini detected the resistance at 0.09 ohms which was the build I had in the KFL.
2. I vaped this at 430F/20W perfectly, never went into TP and it was a nice warm vape. Let my friend check it out too.
3. Let the mini sit and go to sleep. When you hit the fire button the resistance has dropped to 0.07
4. Passed it over to my friend to try... He was absolutely amazed at how poor the vape was compared to the previous test. Weak and the mini constantly went into TP mode.
5. I let it sit a half an hour unscrewed the KFL fired a few times to clean the setting, screwed the KFL back on and it was back to 0.09 ohms.
6. I hit yes for new coil, passed it over and the vape was back to normal with no TP kicking in.

If I would have chosen No to the new coil option it would have had the same pathetic vape it did after it woke up from sleep mode.

I put the KFL after it cooled on the ipv D2 with 430F/20W passed it to my friend and he vaped it for quite a while as it worked as expected.

You can tell when the mini goes into TP mode as the vape suffers drastically with the power dropping from 20W to 4W etc... Locking the resistance makes no difference as the mini adjusts to whatever the current resistance is. If you could tell the mini that this coil is 0.09 ohms and lock that value so it cant change then there probably would not be a problem.

Those are my issues and others have enjoyed the same.

If your mod were my mod, and I have had those symptoms, I would have suspected that the first calibration was a faulty one, for whatever reason (poor 510 connection...).

As it appears to be, you did not lock the resistance at 0,09 ohm, you relayed on its NCSC question as a way to input the base resistance...and after going to sleep (screen off, I presume) it appeared a new lower resistance, and without locking the mod appears to presume that the lower resistance is the new base resistance, and naturally the vape is weaker...

Mine in that stage would have asked for NCSN again, I think, but I really do not know that for sure...because I would have locked the resistance at 0,09 ohm on the first stage, and in that way, it runs quite as it's expected. I always lock resistance, do not wait to NCSC questions.....

If you actually locked the resistance in 0,09 ohm on the first stage AND after sleeping the mod shows 0,07 ohm, with the padlock, and after the first hit it continues showing 0,07 ohm with the padlock, then it's for sure, your mod behaves differently than mine.

Why? Good question, I do not have any valid clue to answer it..... Maybe it's a thing about roundings up of those nifty numbers for resistance. At 0,07-0,09, you're near the lower limit of 0,05 ohm. And with measured resistances of 0,1 ohm or lower ones, you surely miss the third decimal position that the IPV D2 sports.....

I've run as low as 0,084 ohm (that's from the IPV D2), which is shown as 0,09 ohm by the VTC mini, and it runs without any trouble. But that's mine....

 

[Kaiser Bob]

If you actually locked the resistance in 0,09 ohm on the first stage AND after sleeping the mod shows 0,07 ohm, with the padlock, and after the first hit it continues showing 0,07 ohm with the padlock, then it's for sure, your mod behaves differently than mine.

This is the behaviour that got me poking around the forums to begin with, because what's the point of the lock if it decides to drop resistance anyway?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

 

[ykalon]

Could it possibly be that some people think they are actually locking the resistance when they use the NCSC question...?

 

[EDO]

My mod only locks in one direction. So if you have an coil that is 0.1 ohms and then lock it.. it will stay locked to 0.1 as long and its resistance goes up not down. So if you put a new atty that is 0.15 ohms the mod will still be locked at 0.1ohms. If you put anew atty or for some reason the original coils resistance goes down to 0.07ohms then the locked resistance will change to 0.07 ohms.

This morning for the first time I noticed that my atty's resistance had gone down from 0.08 ohms to 0.06 ohms. The vape had become very anemic. For about half an hour I was having exactly the same problems every one else is having. I figured that maybe I had bumped the coil slightly (when I had taken it out to look at the coils at some point) and caused a slight short. I spaced out the coils and reinstalled the atty. Now the coil read 0.11ohms. I put the atty in the freezer for a minute and then put it back and it was back to 0.8 ohms. Its been vaping fine since then and it has gone to sleep multiple times. I even have taken it off while it was cool and put it back again and the resistance has stayed at 0.08 ohms.

 

[scaredmice]

My mod only locks in one direction. So if you have an coil that is 0.1 ohms and then lock it.. it will stay locked to 0.1 as long and its resistance goes up not down. So if you put a new atty that is 0.15 ohms the mod will still be locked at 0.1ohms. If you put anew atty or for some reason the original coils resistance goes down to 0.07ohms then the locked resistance will change to 0.07 ohms.

This morning for the first time I noticed that my atty's resistance had gone down from 0.08 ohms to 0.06 ohms. The vape had become very anemic. For about half an hour I was having exactly the same problems every one else is having. I figured that maybe I had bumped the coil slightly (when I had taken it out to look at the coils at some point) and caused a slight short. I spaced out the coils and reinstalled the atty. Now the coil read 0.11ohms. I put the atty in the freezer for a minute and then put it back and it was back to 0.8 ohms. Its been vaping fine since then and it has gone to sleep multiple times. I even have taken it off while it was cool and put it back again and the resistance has stayed at 0.08 ohms.

Well, mine does not. I clearly remember situations in which the first lock was done with a faulty connection or whatsoever situation that renders higher resistance, and after a few hits, I discovered that the actual base resistance is lower... because I had to get down in temperatures. So it was hitting me harder, just quite the opposite of what you see, because your case is the opposite (real base resistance is higher than the actually stored).

After cooling things down and confirming the lower base resistance, I re-locked it and starting to vape as usual. But I had to re-lock, the mod refused to do it by itself, as you claim your units do.

Could it possibly be that some people think they are actually locking the resistance when they use the NCSC question...?

Well, I still think that that's the second securing protocol of the mod. If the chip measures a way too different resistance, beyond the expected range due to temperatures, and a lower one surely qualifies, it asks for NCSC...and if you answer Yes, it changes the stored base resistance for the one currently measured....

... and theoretically you do not need to lock (with the padlock).... but it does not harm you if you do.

What it's not an expected (as my own experience with my unit) or well-designed (as purposely programmed to do so) behaviour is to detect the different, lower resistance, and not to ask NCSC, just changing it on the reserved memory for the base resistance. It should ask NCSC before doing so, so the user could refrain of granting those changes. And that's the thing that you can avoid locking the resistance, as putting the padlock on screen.

But it appears that there are some lemons out there which precisely do that, wrongly. And despite the firmware upgrading and, I presume, the same hardware.

BTW.....Was the possibility that the three hardware versions are, in fact, the three available colours cleared out? Has anyone a black one and his firmware version IS NOT 1.00?

If there is just one chipset hardware version, this is even more puzzling that I can bear.....

 

[TrollDragon]

If you actually locked the resistance in 0,09 ohm on the first stage AND after sleeping the mod shows 0,07 ohm, with the padlock, and after the first hit it continues showing 0,07 ohm with the padlock, then it's for sure, your mod behaves differently than mine.

I followed the all the rules and locked it in when I first got the mini, then I played the lock/unlock shuffle when it was starting to have problems and I was using the 0.12 ohm coils.

The big question is...
Does one really need a spreadsheet and a lot of screwing around to have a TC device work? I really don't care that the TCR they have listed is a few thousand off, or if they set the baseline whatever 2 degrees upper or lower than it should be. If it was just a matter of the temp is off a bit on the eVic so you have to run it at 460F instead of 430F that would not be any problem at all... But it is just not like that.

So since the IPV D2 does not seem to have any of these issues. I imagine if plugged that same 0.09 ohm KFL onto a Sigelei 75W TC or even the Koopor Mini 60W TC it would work right away, without a hitch or any of the jacking around...

ETA: The VTC mini never asks NCSC when the resistance drops, only when it higher by a certain percentage.

 

[Rockwell222]

This thing is really frustrating. Been having problems with it since day 1. I've followed this thread and tried mostly all of the suggestions. It's my wife's so it rips my heart out that she is having all these issues. I have found that my SS coil that I use on my DNA200 works well in titanium mode at 200f to 220f. I may rebuild a STM coil and see if it stays steady. Its just hard seeing all these other people saying mines perfect and mine sucks.

 

[VapingTurtle]

BTW.....Was the possibility that the three hardware versions are, in fact, the three available colours cleared out? Has anyone a black one and his firmware version IS NOT 1.00?

Yes.

The hardware version is not related to the color.

 

[scaredmice]

Yes Bypass on the VTC.

Bypass mode is just like a mechanical mod, it shines when it comes down to the sub ohm builds. If you put a Kayfun Lite on the mini in Bypass mode with a standard 1.4 ohm Kanthal build. Out of the mini off of a fresh battery, Bypass mode would put out a very respectable Tootle Puffing 12W...

Which makes no sense to use it in Bypass mode as you could run that quite nicely in Power mode between 15-18W all day long. Don't forget that as the battery level drops so does the output in Bypass mode, before too long that 12W is down to 10W which doesn't happen in Power mode.

Making bypass mode useful is more for RDA's with sub ohm builds. The mini goes to 60W in Power mode with an RDA that has a 0.2 ohm build. Switching that over to Bypass mode the mini will put 88W into that same RDA.

Like the Clouder's say "More Power for More Chuck Bro"

With 21A being pulled out of that battery you don't get the 88W for too long, it would start taper off quite quickly. I don't really know how much protection is on the mini in Bypass mode. Since it will take a minimum 0.15 ohm coil, a fresh battery would put 118W into that build and I would be careful of that as it draws 28A from the battery.

The Bypass mode is just a novelty feature IMHO. There are many good Mosfet controlled parallel 18650 box mods out there that are semi safe depending on batteries used and the experience level of the user.

So take your favorite RDA put a 0.2 ohm Kanthal build on it and try all your devices that have a Bypass mode.

Well, several video-reviewers have shown, inadvertently or not, that the numbers shown on screen in by-pass mode are utterly optimistic.

If the mod showed the actual, dynamically updated, voltage applied to the atomizer, you would have been surprised by the actual numbers.... It did that in some earlier version of firmware (I think that 1.00) but in 1.02, and I presume that in 1.10 too, it does not.

And as kindneypuncher.com battery tests show, even a damn good freshly-fully-charged VTC5 looses almost 0,5 V of electromotive force when it is forced to freely feed a 0,2 ohm resistance..... your 88 W go down to less than 70 W.... and that's probably optimistic too. Try that with even less atomizer resistance and, security issues aside, you can imagine the not-so-good result. Try that with a battery unable to go beyond the 18,5 A actually pushed out it and the results would be actually anaemic!

And that's not factoring the wiring and chip losses. High performance mech mod are made of copper (thick copper, I mean) because of something.....

I'd rather rely on a good chip to maintain voltages in spite of battery drains..... or in thick copper....

 

[ykalon]

Well... Picking mine up at the postal office today. Don't know if I should be excited or not...

 

[scaredmice]

I followed the all the rules and locked it in when I first got the mini, then I played the lock/unlock shuffle when it was starting to have problems and I was using the 0.12 ohm coils.

The big question is...
Does one really need a spreadsheet and a lot of screwing around to have a TC device work? I really don't care that the TCR they have listed is a few thousand off, or if they set the baseline whatever 2 degrees upper or lower than it should be. If it was just a matter of the temp is off a bit on the eVic so you have to run it at 460F instead of 430F that would not be any problem at all... But it is just not like that.

So since the IPV D2 does not seem to have any of these issues. I imagine if plugged that same 0.09 ohm KFL onto a Sigelei 75W TC or even the Koopor Mini 60W TC it would work right away, without a hitch or any of the jacking around...

ETA: The VTC mini never asks NCSC when the resistance drops, only when it higher by a certain percentage.

No, you do not need a spreadsheet to run it..... The maths were just to help to the curious ones, as I am, to understand the damn device....

And yes, to my surprise, it didn't ask NCSC when I changed to a lower resistance, TC-enabled atomizer. I'm not sure why, I'm not sure if it'll work right without locking the resistance.....well, I always lock it.....

And that was the moment in which this terrible cameraman (wrong dude, iffy camera, worse video) tried to immortalize the moment...... At 2:00 through 3:00, the 'it doesn't ask NCSC at lower resistances!', but also at 3:30 I've locked the resistance and it works as it should, going from 0,08 Ω to 0,16 Ω. That's R/R0=2 and that's 220ºC at TCR=0,0050, I suppose that with better figures (more decimal positions) we'd be able to refine the calculus.....which is utterly useless when you're vaping, of course.....

Bonus......after that, I took out the battery to show how it seems to sport actual resistance (mildly hot) despite being locked, but in just one click over the power button it swaps it to the locked value.....



I wonder if it would be asking too much if...you make 'some films' too...., capturing the infamous moment in your devices. Remember, my unit works well and I'm just trying to help you, so if you decide it is not worth the hassle, we'll understand.....

 

[AlaskaVaper]

What is your experience with battery life on the Evic Mini? What is the best long life battery from your experience? I have been getting maybe 1 1/2 hours of life from my fully charged batteries. This with heavy vaping using the Crown tank with SS coils .27 ohm resistance. I have been using the LG HE4 batteries.

 

[dimo]

Interesting. Both my DNA 40 devices also did this. Evolved called it refinement. It would adjust up or down .01-.02 and would change the vape enough that I to adjust temp to fix it. My DNA 40 mods are both older and don't have the temp lock feature the later versions had.

I thought that was the whole purpose of resistance lock, to keep the resistance from moving around after the initial setup? I'll experiment with mine later today or during the week to see what happens.

Well, I did a quick experiment last night. Put a .11 ohm nickel build in my subtank mini rba section (3mm ID, 8 wrap, 28awg ni200). Set it for 480 and locked the resistance. Vapes goods for me. Vaped on it for about 20-30 min and set it down for 2 hours. When I picked it back up it still said .11 and vapes exactly the same. Put on the counter and went to bed. This morning I picked it up and still reads .11 and still vapes good.

Sounds like not all of these are experiencing and resistance drop while on TC mode, after sleeping a while?

Mine has hardware version 1.03 and software version 1.10 as shown by the joeytech firmware upgrade software.

 

[ykalon]

Just picked mine up an hour ago. Put a 0.27 ti coil in the stm rba, and so far works as intended. Not loosing the locked res from sleep... yet.
It came with Firmware 1.10 installed, and Hardware version also 1.10

 

[iowa31s]

I hate to admit this, but for now, I am giving up. I am on my second one of these, and it is performing almost exactly like the first. Last night, after beating my brains out over these issues all weekend, I put on a kanthal build, and it has been working great in wattage mode. I am going to make sure I fill out and register my warranty card for the device, and hope that there is a solution in the future. For now, I am going to look at it as though I spent $50 on another VW mod, that I really didn't need, and just use it that way. I am not the kind of person who usually gives up, but this is causing me more frustration than I need in my life right now. I will keep reading this thread, and hope there is an answer.

 

[TrollDragon]

Well, several video-reviewers have shown, inadvertently or not, that the numbers shown on screen in by-pass mode are utterly optimistic.

If the mod showed the actual, dynamically updated, voltage applied to the atomizer, you would have been surprised by the actual numbers.... It did that in some earlier version of firmware (I think that 1.00) but in 1.02, and I presume that in 1.10 too, it does not.

And as kindneypuncher.com battery tests show, even a damn good freshly-fully-charged VTC5 looses almost 0,5 V of electromotive force when it is forced to freely feed a 0,2 ohm resistance..... your 88 W go down to less than 70 W.... and that's probably optimistic too. Try that with even less atomizer resistance and, security issues aside, you can imagine the not-so-good result. Try that with a battery unable to go beyond the 18,5 A actually pushed out it and the results would be actually anaemic!

And that's not factoring the wiring and chip losses. High performance mech mod are made of copper (thick copper, I mean) because of something.....

I'd rather rely on a good chip to maintain voltages in spite of battery drains..... or in thick copper....

Yes nothing beats a good solid mechanical for the least amount voltage drop, it just seems that the VTC mini has a better Bypass mode that the other DC-DC offerings on similar devices. I have no way to measure any of this, I was just mistakenly going by what the screen was saying. I'd like to see Busardo run this through his gear on all the settings but it is probably not worth his time.

No, you do not need a spreadsheet to run it..... The maths were just to help to the curious ones, as I am, to understand the damn device....

And yes, to my surprise, it didn't ask NCSC when I changed to a lower resistance, TC-enabled atomizer. I'm not sure why, I'm not sure if it'll work right without locking the resistance.....well, I always lock it.....

And that was the moment in which this terrible cameraman (wrong dude, iffy camera, worse video) tried to immortalize the moment...... At 2:00 through 3:00, the 'it doesn't ask NCSC at lower resistances!', but also at 3:30 I've locked the resistance and it works as it should, going from 0,08 Ω to 0,16 Ω. That's R/R0=2 and that's 220ºC at TCR=0,0050, I suppose that with better figures (more decimal positions) we'd be able to refine the calculus.....which is utterly useless when you're vaping, of course.....

Bonus......after that, I took out the battery to show how it seems to sport actual resistance (mildly hot) despite being locked, but in just one click over the power button it swaps it to the locked value.....



I wonder if it would be asking too much if...you make 'some films' too...., capturing the infamous moment in your devices. Remember, my unit works well and I'm just trying to help you, so if you decide it is not worth the hassle, we'll understand.....

I had a really hard time trying to understand what your video was showing me, watched it twice and still don't get the meaning behind it. I am waiting for my Ti wire to get here from Unkamen and my old HTC takes really bad videos, so I'll see about making one when when my wire arrives.

 

[zeus01]

so i ahve been observing my mod now,.
for some reason,
mine is ok now.

not sure what fixed it

i cleaned my atty and left the coil there now wicks,
threw it on the freezer and my mod to the bottom part of the fridge.
left it there maybe half an hour,

took it out,wicked and primed..

wiped everything
screwed the aty on the mod,
registered 0.25 ohms, which originally was 0.27 ohms
set at 480-550f
locked vaped ok,

vaped until dry...

let it rest ,,went on with my life

went back to it and it was working good vape again..

have not unscrewed the darn atty until now,happy at the moment

 

[Rockwell222]

My temporary solution has been to use titanium in ni200 mode at 90 Fahrenheit or so less and use SS in titanium mode and drop the temp to around 220 or so. This has been working very good. I'm still frustrated that I bought this for my wife and now she has to use it in odd ways to make it work. I'm going to try the freezer thing and hope for the best. I was enjoying it was much with SS in titanium mode that I ended up "borrowing" it for the whole day yesterday. I hope they do some sort of update but for some reason I doubt it. ​

 

[ariffza]

What is your experience with battery life on the Evic Mini? What is the best long life battery from your experience? I have been getting maybe 1 1/2 hours of life from my fully charged batteries. This with heavy vaping using the Crown tank with SS coils .27 ohm resistance. I have been using the LG HE4 batteries.

What a coincidence. I have the exact coils on my Crown with LG HE4 in my VTC as well. I had to power it up between 37W to 50W to get the best flavor out of this setup. As a consequences, my battery will only last for 2 hours max. I should've gotten a higher wattage mod for this Crown tank.

 

[chief63]

It is starting to grow old that I am supposedly doing something wrong and my expectations are too high. I shouldn't have to set the VTC to 550F and 45W just to get the same vape I am getting on the D2 at 400F and 25W.

that is exactly what I have to do. crank it up or the vape sucks. and it still hits TP to fast, disappointing.