-unscrew attyCan you give a simple repeat of your procedure? What the hell, I can't have tried then all.![]()
-unlock RES
-shut VTC off, let rest for a few minutes
-turn VTC on
-screw on atty
-lock RES
-unscrew attyCan you give a simple repeat of your procedure? What the hell, I can't have tried then all.![]()
Yes you can.Hey guys,
I have one question regarding the charging of the batteries. Can i charge the battery, when its in the mod and still vape on it - pass through? For the charging i will use the cable my PC or my phone's charger.
I know that some devices do not allow charging - iP4Y 4s, bou i do it withou a problem on my Kanger SubBox Mini.
Thank you.
I did a build to show the B&M where I bought it how it does not work properly in TC mode which I can recreate every time.
Kayfun V4 with an 11 wrap 28g Ni 200 coil on 3mm spaced. This coil has a resistance of 0.16Ω which is what the Steam-Engine page says it should be.
I took the mini and set it up at 380F/25W/Unlocked and hit the fire button a few times to show No Atomizer.
1. Screw on the KF4 let the mini detect the resistance which shows up as 0.20Ω, the vape from this never hits TP and provides a warm vape with good vapor production. (It will hit TP when the wick goes dry as I did the same test with the Mutation X V3 before the KF4.)
2. Let the mini sit for a few minutes, when you touch the fire button to wake it up the resistance now is 0.16Ω, take a vape and within a second it goes into TP mode providing a weak cool vape.
3. Unscrew the KF4 enough that it the resistance shows 0.00Ω, hit fire a few times and screw the KF4 back down. The mini will auto detect the resistance again at 0.20Ω and ask the New Coil question every time as long as the resistance is higher than before. Press right to accept the new coil and try a vape. It will be back to a nice warm vape with good vapor production.
4. Let the unit sleep again and you are back to 0.16Ω, this can be repeated all day long.
I don't have a Mini (just a regular VT), but if it works as most other mods it'll pause charging while you vape. So, strictly speaking it isn't pass through (the charger can't provide enough amps for battery by-pass vaping), but in practice the experience is the same.Hey guys,
I have one question regarding the charging of the batteries. Can i charge the battery, when its in the mod and still vape on it - pass through? For the charging i will use the cable my PC or my phone's charger.
I know that some devices do not allow charging - iP4Y 4s, bou i do it withou a problem on my Kanger SubBox Mini.
Thank you.
Well guys call me crazy, call me foolish...![]()
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I am going to pick up the IPV D2 anyway and keep the VTC Mini as well. I just really like the aesthetics of the mini and we all know there will be a fix for this down the road.
I'll have to see if there is an IPV D2 thread now, so I can constantly complain in about the bad paint job etc...
![]()
Bwahahahaha!
Actually, its paint job is not nearly as bad as I expected. Not as nice as the VTC Mini, but not as bad as the IPV Minies.I'll have to see if there is an IPV D2 thread now, so I can constantly complain in about the bad paint job etc...![]()
I was just kidding...Actually, its paint job is not nearly as bad as I expected. Not as nice as the VTC Mini, but not as bad as the IPV Minies.
Did the B&M refuse to replace it? Certainly worth trying out a different vtc mini to see if a unit from a different batch functions better.I did a build to show the B&M where I bought it how it does not work properly in TC mode which I can recreate every time.
Kayfun V4 with an 11 wrap 28g Ni 200 coil on 3mm spaced. This coil has a resistance of 0.16Ω which is what the Steam-Engine page says it should be.
I took the mini and set it up at 380F/25W/Unlocked and hit the fire button a few times to show No Atomizer.
1. Screw on the KF4 let the mini detect the resistance which shows up as 0.20Ω, the vape from this never hits TP and provides a warm vape with good vapor production. (It will hit TP when the wick goes dry as I did the same test with the Mutation X V3 before the KF4.)
2. Let the mini sit for a few minutes, when you touch the fire button to wake it up the resistance now is 0.16Ω, take a vape and within a second it goes into TP mode providing a weak cool vape.
3. Unscrew the KF4 enough that it the resistance shows 0.00Ω, hit fire a few times and screw the KF4 back down. The mini will auto detect the resistance again at 0.20Ω and ask the New Coil question every time as long as the resistance is higher than before. Press right to accept the new coil and try a vape. It will be back to a nice warm vape with good vapor production.
4. Let the unit sleep again and you are back to 0.16Ω, this can be repeated all day long.
I was just kidding...![]()
Not yet...Did the B&M refuse to replace it? Certainly worth trying out a different vtc mini to see if a unit from a different batch functions better.
Ha ha Jim I was reading through some of that in the thread.You'll want to lead off with the sleeve being more like a damn dry-suit and being top fitted it makes changing the battery a real pain.
Then you'll want to pivot to descriptions of the slow painful death you plan for the idiot who created the scroll acceleration algorithm.
Personal preference if you despise having to dig down into the menu to change temp. It's a "feature" of the chip so that's up to you.
Still love the damn thing myself.![]()
Ha ha Jim I was reading through some of that in the thread.
Cosmetic issues and user interface idiosyncrasies I can deal with. I have 3 different Chinese digital audio players that simians could have designed better UI's for so I am used to the annoying stuff. I just want to screw on a RTA with a 0.1Ω coil and vape, with each vape being consistent till the tank runs dry.![]()