eVic VTC Mini - Bypass mode - Voltage Reading

[DarrellG]

Hi all. I'm new to the forum(which already strikes me as an invaluable resource), and hopefully I haven't blundered straight out of the gate by posting this thread in an inappropriate forum.

I use my eVic Mini in temperature and power mode, exclusively, but I'm curious about the voltage reading in bypass mode. Is this voltage reading the resting voltage of the battery? If so, might this be an accurate way of measuring the resting voltage of my batteries until I purchase an inline voltage meter? I'd like to treat my battery's right, for safety and longevity.

According to joyetech, when the battery voltage dips below 2.9V in power mode the device will display a "Weak Battery" warning and adjust the output accordingly. There is also a "Low Power" alert when battery voltage dips below 3.3V. Oddly enough I have seen the weak battery warning, but never once I have seen the low power warning, which makes me not so confident in trusting these readings (although I could be misunderstanding these readings). Shouldn't the low power warning at 3.3V come before the weak battery warning at 2.9V?

I'd appreciate any input on this subject from those familiar with this mod.

Thanks!

 

[Robert Cromwell]

With the VTC mini off press and hold both the fire button and the left/down button for a few seconds your battery voltage will be displayed. This is with the V3 software not sure if it works on earlier versions or not.

 

[DarrellG]

With the VTC mini off press and hold both the fire button and the left/down button for a few seconds your battery voltage will be displayed. This is with the V3 software not sure if it works on earlier versions or not.

Thanks a ton, Robert. Worked perfectly.

I'm still not clear on the logic of the Low Battery vs. Weak Battery warnings -I think I edited that question into my post while you were replying. If I can make any sense of it I'll post the info in case it's useful to anyone else.

Thanks again.

 

[MMcQ]

I'm just going to throw out a guess for the Low Power vs. Weak battery warning topic. When you are putting a load such as a coil on the battery ( When you fire it) if the voltage of the battery drops to below 2.9 it would be reading it as a weak battery. This should occur even if the resting voltage of the battery is above the 3.3 volt low power warning. This is assuming that the Low power warning is based on the resting voltage of the battery. Again, don't own this mod but this explanation seems to make sense to me.

 

[sonicbomb]

@DarrellG I just checked on mine and yes in bypass mode the voltage value is the resting battery voltage. Which is nice, like a mech but with numbers.

 

[edyle]

Hi all. I'm new to the forum(which already strikes me as an invaluable resource), and hopefully I haven't blundered straight out of the gate by posting this thread in an inappropriate forum.

I use my eVic Mini in temperature and power mode, exclusively, but I'm curious about the voltage reading in bypass mode. Is this voltage reading the resting voltage of the battery? If so, might this be an accurate way of measuring the resting voltage of my batteries until I purchase an inline voltage meter? I'd like to treat my battery's right, for safety and longevity.

According to Joyetech, when the battery voltage dips below 2.9V in power mode the device will display a "Weak Battery" warning and adjust the output accordingly. There is also a "Low Power" alert when battery voltage dips below 3.3V. Oddly enough I have seen the weak battery warning, but never once I have seen the low power warning, which makes me not so confident in trusting these readings (although I could be misunderstanding these readings). Shouldn't the low power warning at 3.3V come before the weak battery warning at 2.9V?

I'd appreciate any input on this subject from those familiar with this mod.

Thanks!

1: Yes, the voltage reading in bypass mode is the battery voltage.
Yes it is an accurate way of measuring the rest voltage of your battery.
You don't need an inline voltage meter, plus where would you put it?

2: There are different version firmwares out there so, the actually message may vary.

3: I have a couple old batteries which if I try to turn up the wattage on my vtc mini will result in a "Weak Battery" message; so I believe it means your battery does not have the power.

There is a battery indicator bar right at the bottom of the screen which shows you your battery status; when it gets down to empty, that when it's around 3.2 volts.

To treat your battery right for safety and longevity get a good external charger, and a lineup of batteries, and let your batteries have a period of rest in between charging and inservice activities.

 

[DarrellG]

Thanks for your time @MMcQ, @sonicbomb and @edyle

I sent a support email to Joyetech just for clarification on the Battery Warnings for the 3.0 firmware, but I suspect MMcQ is on the money -it seems logical. When/if I hear back I'll post their response here just to be sure.

Thanks for the tips edyle. I actually meant a multi-meter, as opposed to an inline voltage meter, but I suppose even that would be unnecessary if I can trust the eVic to read the voltage for me. Maybe it would be a handy tool if I decide to dabble with mech mods? I'm certain that day will come.

I've been reading through Mooch's battery tests so I'm starting to get a grasp on how to buy smart and use smart. I'm just cycling through a couple LG HE2's and a Samsung 25R at the moment. All I have for a charger is an Efest XSmart single bay charger. I plan to pick up a Nitecore D4 shortly. From what I've been reading regarding Efest's marketing practices they don't strike me as a company I'd want to support even if their chargers are quality.

Thanks again guys!

 

[edyle]

Thanks for the tips edyle. I actually meant a multi-meter, as opposed to an inline voltage meter, but I suppose even that would be unnecessary if I can trust the eVic to read the voltage for me. Maybe it would be a handy tool if I decide to dabble with mech mods? I'm certain that day will come.

It absolutely would be.
It means you can try out a tank or coil in bypass mode, and if it works out just fine then you know it should work fine on a mech, unregulated.

As for multimeter, it's good to have, but I think your charger will show you voltage anyway.


btw, a lot of people go for those 4 bay chargers; I got 2 dual bay chargers myself; I believe in having 2 of everything; I also have two single bay usb powered chargers which are actually nicer but I use the bigger ones instead because they have a slow charge option.

just make sure it's independent bay chargers; I fryed a cheap charger myself because it was not independent bay; that's one of the reasons I kinda like having single bay chargers around.

 

[DarrellG]

It absolutely would be.
It means you can try out a tank or coil in bypass mode, and if it works out just fine then you know it should work fine on a mech, unregulated.

As for multimeter, it's good to have, but I think your charger will show you voltage anyway.


btw, a lot of people go for those 4 bay chargers; I got 2 dual bay chargers myself; I believe in having 2 of everything; I also have two single bay usb powered chargers which are actually nicer but I use the bigger ones instead because they have a slow charge option.

just make sure it's independent bay chargers; I fryed a cheap charger myself because it was not independent bay; that's one of the reasons I kinda like having single bay chargers around.

I'll keep the independent bay point in mind, appreciate the tip. The Nitecore D4 is independent bay so I'm definitely leaning toward it. Plenty of bells and whistles; safety options.

 

[sonicbomb]

Make sure you come back with the skinny on the battery messages when you get an answer from Joyetech.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

As for multimeter, it's good to have, but I think your charger will show you voltage anyway.

For now, he has an Efest XSmart (I have one too), which only has a Red/Green LED, no display.

I'll keep the independent bay point in mind, appreciate the tip. The Nitecore D4 is independent bay so I'm definitely leaning toward it. Plenty of bells and whistles; safety options.

I trust my Efest chargers.
I believe the rewrapped batteries for vapers nonsense came later for the company.
But I understand your not wanting to use their products.

We generally stick to three major players for chargers... Nitecore, Efest and Xtar.
And they're generally regarded in that order, though YMMV.
For now, I prefer my Efest LUC4, which can do 4x1A charging, which the others cannot.
I go through about 7000mAh a day, and do not leave chargers unattended or on overnight.
So the lower max x4 charge rates were something I avoided when shopping.

For our VTCs and Bypass mode:
Yes, that's its' current batt reading, same as the powered off button trick.
But take care with that mode. You can fry a wick or factory head quicker than you can blink.
Know the math and your build before you hit that switch.

I have a 0.28 dual in my Bellus on it right now. But I know using even the half charged battery hitting it with 48w would mean needing to rewick... right now.
And a little coughing... there would be dry hit coughing.
But that's my own poor wicking. I just happen to know that. The build would normally handle it just fine.
The more you know, eh?

 

[DarrellG]

For now, he has an Efest XSmart (I have one too), which only has a Red/Green LED, no display.



I trust my Efest chargers.
I believe the rewrapped batteries for vapers nonsense came later for the company.
But I understand your not wanting to use their products.

We generally stick to three major players for chargers... Nitecore, Efest and Xtar.
And they're generally regarded in that order, though YMMV.
For now, I prefer my Efest LUC4, which can do 4x1A charging, which the others cannot.
I go through about 7000mAh a day, and do not leave chargers unattended or on overnight.
So the lower max x4 charge rates were something I avoided when shopping.

For our VTCs and Bypass mode:
Yes, that's its' current batt reading, same as the powered off button trick.
But take care with that mode. You can fry a wick or factory head quicker than you can blink.
Know the math and your build before you hit that switch.

I have a 0.28 dual in my Bellus on it right now. But I know using even the half charged battery hitting it with 48w would mean needing to rewick... right now. But that's my own poor wicking. I just happen to know that. The build would normally handle it just fine.
The more you know, eh?

Right on, appreciate the reply Jim.

I cycle through three 2500 mAh batteries a day, so I guess we're about the same on usage.
The convenience factor of a quicker charge would certainly be nice (I won't charge them overnight either). It appears the Nitecore D4 charges 1-2 batteries at 750mAh and 3-4 at 375mAh, so I might be reconsidering and doing a tad more research, as I'm thinking I'd prefer 1A on all four batteries for the sake of not having a part-time job as a battery monitor. The 1A x4 that your LUC4 offers seems spot on.

As for ByPass Mode, I haven't felt much need to use it, but I'm sure I'll dabble eventually.
I certainly don't need any help burning wicks!
I picked up a BMI Goldie to try my hand at RDA's. I'm not having much of an issue making some simple micro coils, but it's -very- evident that my wicking technique is, well, sub par at best. It seems so deceptively simple... I stick with my Uwell Crown tank 95% of the time. I'm extremely satisfied with the Crown, it's been handling chain vaping of 80% VGA juices like a champ, even up to 60 watts in power mode -I usually stay closer to 40 though.

Thanks again for the input.

 

[sonicbomb]

The bypass mode is a two penny novelty. I build differently for mechs and regulated devices, to put one of the other would be misuse.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

I should think so too.
If I was interested in mechs, or bypass mode, I'd put some serious thought into "building for the battery" before I went very far with it.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

The bypass mode is a two penny novelty. I build differently for mechs and regulated devices, to put one of the other would be misuse.

So far I build for both. I build so I can use my tanks/clearos on either my mechs or regulated. And get an acceptable vape.
I have never used bypass mode on my VTC mini.
Never used TC mode either

 

[DarrellG]

Well I just heard back from Joyetech. I didn't get anything close to the detailed reply I was pressing for.

I'd like to post their two sentence response, which would be comical if it wasn't so sad, but I'm not certain if that's in line with the ToS for the forum. I'd paraphrase, but the reply was so short it's practically impossible to do anything but directly quote it.

Anyway, I think we're probably on point as to the difference between the two warnings. It just would have been nice to get some detailed confirmation.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

You're the recipient and there's no "privilege" involved so you're free to post whatever they said to you. I'm also of the mind that battery sag explains the different status messages.

 

[DarrellG]

"Hi, Low battry means the power is really low and you need to charge.
Weak battery means when the device is on ,lack of current dischrge and the voltage is really low
Best Wishes!"

Spelling and grammar errors left as is.
So, yeah. That's what they gave me to work with.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Well... that's clear as mud.

Lol, thanks.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

I interpert that as.
Weak battery is voltage sag while firing. Or not enough voltage current from battery to sustain selected wattage.

Low battery is when not firing and battery voltage is low.