Fact or Fiction

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passerbyeus

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Thanks but " You will find that you can go much higher voltage with LR" I am not seeing this at all with a dual coils 1.5...... I still get the same errors as before. I mean dont get me wrong dc at 4.5 are a good sweet spot I dont need to take it higher but I just do not see any difference with the error popping up.


Here's the thread that announced V2.

Be sure to read post #22 as well. It clarifies the exact differences.
 

Frick

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This is the relevant information from that thread:

The new output limit (when you will get an E2) is 3.5 amps from 2.9 v to 4.2v. Above 4.2v the output limit is set to 14.5 watts. So above 4.2v each step has a little bit different current limit based on a power calculation.

4.5V on a 1.5ohm load is 13.5 watts, but on a dual-coil carto it's spread over two coils, providing ~6.75 watts per coil. Did you measure the resistance of the carto itself? It's likely slightly below 1.5 if it's showing an error at 4.6V.

This is why I don't get the appeal of dual-coil cartos. You can only provide so much wattage to each coil, unless you use a stacked-battery unregulated mod.

A 2 ohm single-coil will run right up to the wattage limit, and provide a much hotter hit than a dual-coil can devices like the Provari. I don't say that just from doing the math; I've tried DCs in 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3 ohm. They sit in my drawer gathering dust because a Boge SC out-vapes them at much lower voltage and wattage.
 

passerbyeus

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I have to disagree, I have never seen any Boge out-vape a Smoktech DC, I have been vaping for 3 years and 2 of those years I used only Boge, a DC 1.5 even on an Ego can put out twice as much vapor and give a faster nic fix than a Boge and the only heat you get from a single coil is when you burn the filling and feel it in your throat and no its measures 1.5 and errors out 5V.....so figure it out 1.5 @ 4.9V=clouds of vapor!!!! a LR Boge at 4.9V =BURNT! But thats beside the point the Provari mini still errors out in v2 as v1 at the same voltage.
 
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Frick

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I have to disagree, I have never seen any Boge out-vape a Smoktech DC, I have been vaping for 3 years and 2 of those years I used only Boge, a DC 1.5 even on an Ego can put out twice as much vapor and give a faster nic fix than a Boge and the only heat you get from a single coil is when you burn the filling and feel it in your throat and no its measures 1.5 and errors out 5V.....so figure it out 1.5 @ 4.9V=clouds of vapor!!!! a LR Boge at 4.9V =BURNT! But thats beside the point the Provari mini still errors out in v2 as v1 at the same voltage.

Agree to disagree there; I can agree that you can get more vapor volume with a dual coil, but you can't put the same wattage through a coil with a DC as you can with a SC -- it's always split across the coils, giving a cooler vape. As I said above, I don't rely on the math: I own them all and the DCs sit and gather dust. But, some people seem to enjoy them, and whatever keeps you off the analogs is what you should use.

Now as for your issue, let's look at amp limits.

V1 Provari had an amperage limit of 2.5 amps. The relevant formula to calculate voltage in this case is Amps * Ohms = Volts

On your 1.5 ohm DC carto, with two 3 ohm coils, the resistance remains 1.5 ohms.

Filling in the formula, with a 2.5 amp limit, we get 2.5 Amps * 1.5 Ohms = 3.75 Volts.

The maximum no-error voltage on a V1 Provari with a 1.5 Ohm load is/was 3.75 Volts.



V2 Provari has an amperage limit of 3.5 amps.

Same formula, same coil resistance, new amp limit: 3.5 Amps * 1.5 Ohms = 5.25 Volts. But now you're up against the overall wattage limit of 14.5 Watts, and that voltage would pull 18.38 Watts.

Limiting the wattage to 14.5, we can use sqrt(Watts * Ohms) = Volts

14.5 Watts * 1.5 Ohms = 21.75. The square root of 21.75 is 4.66.

The maximum no-error voltage on a V2 Provari with a 1.5 Ohm load is 4.66 Volts.
With the Provari's one-decimal-digit setting, the best you can get is 4.6V on a V2 Provari.

So, the difference between V1 and V2 with a 1.5 Ohm load is a maximum setting of 3.75V vs. 4.6V

The kind of wattage you're looking to put through a DC carto is only available in stacked-battery mods, AFAIK.
 
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jkmtwo

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I can testify to the fact that you can not pump a dual coil up to 5v on a V1, hell they won't even get into the 4s as I remember.

I personally don't use low Res stuff in any form DCCs or SCs, I use 3ohm Boges when it comes to cartos, or SR 801 Fusions, period. I have some 2.5 ohm DCCs that have been gathering dust for months and I'm sure that will continue for long into the future, I used to love DCCs, but no I can't stand them. They kill your battery, and they DO NOT in my experience give the vapor, throat hit, nor heat that a single coil does.

In my humble opinion, noobies like em, but most soon sour on them, because they suck, just my opinion.
 

Frick

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I don't really like dual coils but I saw this post and thought I would test my mini 1.5ohm DCC meters a 1.5ohms I can set to 4.9v it works fine 5v and I get an error but again I don't care for the DDC I bought them a few months ago to see what all the hoopla was about

If you're able to set slightly higher voltage than the limits I posted above, it's due to manufacturing tolerances for the amp limit, which can vary slightly. This is mentioned in the Provari FAQ: "each unit is tested to this limit in production, most exceed this limit by .1 to .2 amps."

Its my understanding the V2 has a 3.5A limit up to 4.2V, then its pretty much business as usual (as far as the 2.5A limit) like the V1 from 4.3 volts on..

...read post #22 in the link I posted above.
"The new output limit (when you will get an E2) is 3.5 amps from 2.9 v to 4.2v. Above 4.2v the output limit is set to 14.5 watts. So above 4.2v each step has a little bit different current limit based on a power calculation."
 

mendnwngs

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Ah.

okay.. Got it now.. Thanks. :)

I wonder how the logic functions.. If it takes a last known reading of atty resistance, or if it dynamicaly updates current limit as the nichrome heats up, or changes over time.

If the circuitry in our ProVaris is that smart, it seems to me like it would be a simple program change to add wattage setting to the menu. (Say, pu.. pd.. wa.. po.. cb.. ao.. lo) Just set it up so if the user adjusts the wa, that overrides the pu /pd and just provides whatever voltage is required to get the wattage dialed in (vis a vie, the Darwin), for whatever the resistance is of the atty / carto.

Hmm.. V3, perhaps? :D
 
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