False ohm advertising help needed.

[Roh Echt]

Hello, I'm new here and one year into vaping. I have my 1st mech mod, Kamry 101, on its way...was just shipped today and expect it within a week.
So I have been looking into more of the ohms and volts side of vaping in order to do this right.
So, since I have original equipment I started with...I thought to do some checking into my current equipment.

The issue I am having is...I purchase the lowest ohm coil replacements for my clearomizers that I can find. They are supposed to be 1.8ohm. I have two different 1.8 replacement coils for two different styles. I had been setting my volts per a reference card...tells which volts to set the VV's for whichever ohm the coil is.

So...I decided to test the ohms of those replacement coils today to find they are not 1.8 ohms. They are 3.0 ohm and 3.5 ohm for the two styles. So then I figure what the volts should be set at...per those ohms and discover that I cannot provide more than 6 volts. My meter only reads volts and resistance so I cannot calculate volts per the amps provided by a battery reading, but they are said to be a 3 amp continuous output for my 1200mah VV's. For a 3 amp and 3 ohm combo...my volts should be set at 9v.

Question: Do I trust the advertised proclamation of 1.8? Or do I trust my own ohm meter reading and toss this question over to my provider? They do produce better vapage at 6v than they ever did in the low 3v range....so ...?

 

[CreepyLady]

Hi and welcome to ECF. You should trust your ohm meter provided it is a reliable one.

The first thing that came to mind for me though - the ohms are close to precisely double. Are these dual coil replacement heads by chance? (If you arent sure - tell us what they go to - we can help).

The reason I think that they are dual coil is because in order to get 1.8 Ohm final resistance in a dual coil tank it requires two 3.6 Ohm coils to work in parallel. If one fails and the other still works the head then becomes a single 3.6 Ohm coil.

 

[Rickajho]

What meter are you using? You can never get accurate low ohms readings from those cheap $10.00 or less multimeters. I tried three of them - just for giggles - from HarborFreight because two of them were free and one was on sale and they are all garbage for reading ohms in the range we use.

 

[Roh Echt]

It is a typical meter for home use...
Thank you for responding...
I believe both of these are single coil...Could not see any description as to them being dual coil. I cannot post links yet...they are the T3S and Ismoka BCC, 1.8 ohm, replacements from Apollo. ← page 3 in their clearomizer section.

 

[CreepyLady]

I have no clue on the Ismoka BCC, but a t3S is single coil (unless you bought Aero/PT3 replacement heads?)

It may be your ohm meter - do you have something else that can also test them to compare? Like whatever mod you may be using even?

To check your resistance you want to test at the bottom of your tank (the part that threads into your device). The positive lead goes to the center pin(positive) and the negative touch the outside of the threads.

**Also you should touch the leads of your meter together and take note of that reading (meters have some internal resistance and varies from model to model). What ever you get from your coil subtract the meters resistance and that (should be) your resistance.

 

[Roh Echt]

OK, I can do that. The meter reads "1" to begin with FYI.
Contact points were understood for me to begin with, but I didn't know about internal resistance, thanks.
tick tock tick tock...
It reads 1 when leads are connected so a more true reading is 2.0 and 2.5, yes?
So, that means, at 3 amp output(supposedly), that a 6v and 7.5v setting is desired, yes?

 

[Bunnykiller]

Unless you own a hi end meter, the meter is not going to be accurate at low ohm situations. I have a Craftsman ( found in the garbage, needed batteries) A Fluke ( still has issues at less than 8 ohms) and a RadioShack ( used for testing wall socket voltage) all 3 of these give me wonky readings. The only ohm meter I trust is the one built into the SVD... it comes closest to the ohms as per ohms per inch values for the wire I use.

 

[mgmrick]

You need to subtract that number. One is kinda high mine meter reads .2 when I touch the leads together

 

[Baditude]

I had been setting my volts per a reference card...tells which volts to set the VV's for whichever ohm the coil is.

So...I decided to test the ohms of those replacement coils today to find they are not 1.8 ohms. They are 3.0 ohm and 3.5 ohm for the two styles. So then I figure what the volts should be set at...per those ohms and discover that I cannot provide more than 6 volts. My meter only reads volts and resistance so I cannot calculate volts per the amps provided by a battery reading, but they are said to be a 3 amp continuous output for my 1200mah VV's. For a 3 amp and 3 ohm combo...my volts should be set at 9v.

No, that's not the way to calculate the voltage to use for your particular coil.

First off, the voltage you select should be by personal preference and to the flavor of the juice you are using. Charts are useful for a basic guide starting point, but nothing is written in stone.

A basic formula to use is to take the ohm of your coil and add the number two. For example, 2.0 ohm + 2 = 4 volts. Again, this is a ball park figure to get you in a range and then set your voltage to taste.

The amps of the battery only come into play when doing sub-ohm coils on a rebuildable atomizer. Then you need to make certain that the sub-ohm coil will not draw more current than the amp rating of the battery. I hope that clears up your confusion.

 

[twgbonehead]

OK, I can do that. The meter reads "1" to begin with FYI.
Contact points were understood for me to begin with, but I didn't know about internal resistance, thanks.
tick tock tick tock...
It reads 1 when leads are connected so a more true reading is 2.0 and 2.5, yes?

Does it read "1" or "1.0"? It should read 1.0 if you've done it correctly (or something with a decimal point).

I've never found heads I bought to be much off in resistance. Make sure you're getting a very good contact with the meter leads.

Also, you should set your volts based on how well the coil vapes, when in use. The reference card might be helpful, but it is not the last word. If it tastes harsh, lower the voltage. If it tastes too light, raise it. Tweak until you find what gives you the best flavor/vapor combination.

 

[CreepyLady]

+1 on baditude and twgbonehead

 

[Roh Echt]

What is with this forum blocking my posts..."not allowed to post links" when I am not posting links?

 

[Baditude]

What is with this forum blocking my posts..."not allowed to post links" when I am not posting links?

There may be a glitch in the server program. The moderators have been working on it for some time. It may also have something to do with you being a new member with under 20 posts. Sorry about that.

 

[Roh Echt]

I only have ego type variables...they do not read ohms, unfortunately
And my meter is likely on the lower end of quality.

If, ↑ as said, it is poor quality for low ohm reading....who knows until I read the ohm's more precisely, yes?


I was using a calculator on a site...but I like your general rule rule

In fact...the kush juice taste much mo' betta now at 4.0v.

Thanks out to all of you for looking in on me...and I cannot wait for the mech and two rba's to arrive.
I will order a better ohm reader for my rebuilds so I can check each rebuild I do in the future...cuz I know I need that too.

 

[Roh Echt]

Apologies for all of the missing quotes that I was responding to ↑ ...I removed them thinking that that was the "no links" issue.

There may be a glitch in the server program. The moderators have been working on it for some time. It may also have something to do with you being a new member with under 20 posts. Sorry about that.

It didn't like my word $#!t with the "at" symbol thrown in the mix between ! and t...apparently

 

[Roh Echt]

Does it read "1" or "1.0"? It should read 1.0 if you've done it correctly (or something with a decimal point).

I've never found heads I bought to be much off in resistance. Make sure you're getting a very good contact with the meter leads.

Also, you should set your volts based on how well the coil vapes, when in use. The reference card might be helpful, but it is not the last word. If it tastes harsh, lower the voltage. If it tastes too light, raise it. Tweak until you find what gives you the best flavor/vapor combination.

It read 1.0...one of the ecig 2-in-1 ohm and volt meters is what I will order for the future

 

[Sthur]

Which coil were your referring too? I know kanger from what I have seen are +/- 0.1 usually out of the box. I have seen gunked up coils after use read night but not that high. If you have a 2-1 box and it reads 1 there is usually nothing connected or it sees no coil.

+1 for bad

 

[Roh Echt]

Which coil were your referring too? I know kanger from what I have seen are +/- 0.1 usually out of the box. I have seen gunked up coils after use read night but not that high. If you have a 2-1 box and it reads 1 there is usually nothing connected or it sees no coil.

+1 for bad

The coils I use are ismoka BCC, Kanger Pro/evod, and newly received T3S replacement coils...all from apollo's clearomizer section: page-3. I do not have the 2 in 1 meter yet, but it is next to order. I was using my home use ohm and volt meter, and it is said to not be accurate for these testings. So I am not worrying too much for now and will look into it again when I have more accurate meter/s...My home meter reads 1.0 when turned on and when the leads are connected...and the ohm readings of the repl. coils read 3.0 and 3.6ish. We'll see when I receive the new 2 in 1 meter...the type you attach the tank to, right?

 

[mgmrick]

yes if your meter is reading 1.0 its too high. Some meter have a dial you can adjust when leads are touching

 

[danny4x4]

Just FYI. The positive and negative legs are secured by the rubber/silicon grommet, hence the resistance might fluctuate. Give the clearo a quick fire and test the resistance again. It will probably drop.

This problem is more prevalent on bottom coil clearos with removeable heads like the kanger t3s. On the kanger t3, where the base and head are integrated, it is less common.