False ohm advertising help needed.

[Katya]

Hi Roh and welcome. First of all, let's start with a little tutorial, because I have a feeling that either your multimeter is malfunctioning or you're not using it correctly, perhaps? The resistance of the leads should not exceed 0.5Ω on a good multimeter.

"A vaper without a multimeter is like a doctor without a stethoscope."
-Switched

buy a multimeter. Any digital multimeter will do, you don't need a Fluke! You can get a good one for $15-25 from Sears, Lowe's or on the Amazon. You need your multimeter to check the resistance of your atomizers and/or voltage of your battery.

Connect the black test lead to the jack marked "Common" or "-"; connect the red test lead to the jack marked with the Ω (Ohm symbol) or letter "R" near it.

To check the resistance of your atomizers:

1. Turn your multimeter on and select the lowest Ohms setting, usually 200Ω.

2. Look at the display; the left side of the screen should display number 1.

3. First, test the resistance of your leads. Touch to two leads together, firmly, and wait for numbers to stabilize. On the right side of the screen, you should see a number between 0.0 and 0.4, or so. This is the resistance of your leads. Remember that number.

4. Now, to test your atty. Position your carto firmly on your desk; you don't want it to slip and slide all over the place. Touch one lead to the hole in the center of the atty and the other lead to the threads. Again read the display after the numbers have stabilized.

5. Subtract the resistance of your leads (#3) from the resistance of your atty(#4). This is the resistance of your atomizer.

This process takes some getting used to. Steady hand helps. Just keep practicing and you'll figure it out.

There are many tutorials on Youtube--watch them if you're a visual learner:

I like this one by GeekGirlVaper:



If you only want to check the resistance of your atomizers, you may want to consider buying this Atomizer and Cartomizer Ohm Meter--a very nifty, albeit single use, device:

It can be used with all native 510 and 901/808 connectors; extensions or adapters are needed to test other atomizers (including eGo-threaded heads, which require a 510>eGo adapter). Many vendors carry them, including Smoktech, MadVapes, IndyVaporShop and others.

If you own an APV that checks the resistance of your atomizers, like Vamo, Zmax, eVic or ProVari, you don't need to buy a multimeter.

 

[Katya]

Hello, I'm new here and one year into vaping. I have my 1st mech mod, Kamry 101, on its way...was just shipped today and expect it within a week.
So I have been looking into more of the ohms and volts side of vaping in order to do this right.
So, since I have original equipment I started with...I thought to do some checking into my current equipment.

The issue I am having is...I purchase the lowest ohm coil replacements for my clearomizers that I can find. They are supposed to be 1.8ohm. I have two different 1.8 replacement coils for two different styles. I had been setting my volts per a reference card...tells which volts to set the VV's for whichever ohm the coil is.

So...I decided to test the ohms of those replacement coils today to find they are not 1.8 ohms. They are 3.0 ohm and 3.5 ohm for the two styles. So then I figure what the volts should be set at...per those ohms and discover that I cannot provide more than 6 volts. My meter only reads volts and resistance so I cannot calculate volts per the amps provided by a battery reading, but they are said to be a 3 amp continuous output for my 1200mah VV's. For a 3 amp and 3 ohm combo...my volts should be set at 9v.

Question: Do I trust the advertised proclamation of 1.8? Or do I trust my own ohm meter reading and toss this question over to my provider? They do produce better vapage at 6v than they ever did in the low 3v range....so ...?

Now, let's move on to your OP. I'm not sure how you arrive at those numbers, so let's forget the amps for a moment and start with your Kanger and iSmoka coils--single stock coils are not designed to handle more 8.5-9 watts of power period. They just can't wick fast enough to handle that much coil heat. If you were to put a 3Ω coil on 9 volts, you'd be at 27 watts--about three times what that coil can handle. Do not attempt. Same thing with a 1.8Ω coil on 6 volts = 20 watts. Not doable.

Kanger coils should have their resistance stamped right on the coil head; you might need a magnifying glass to see it, though.

Like this one:

I'n not sure about the iSmokas--I don't remember. It's possible that they sent you wrong coils--if that's the case, ask for a replacement. If that's not the case, 3Ω coils are perfect for a mod that can supply up to 6 volts.

Maybe this will help--I know it's looks like a wall of text, but if you're going to use a mechanical mod, you really should understand the basics of the Ohm's Law.

Disclaimer: This is the most simplistic explanation and is addressed to new vapers mostly or vapers who are happy within the recommended "just right" power zone (4.5-8 watts). If you are using dual coil atomizers or are interested in high wattage vaping, it's a different conversation altogether. You will also have to understand the concept of amp limits and how it applies to high power vaping. In short, dual coil atties consist of two coils configured in parallel, which means that a 2.1Ω atty is really two 4.2Ω coils--so calculate your wattage based on the 4.2Ω number--not 2.1Ω--roughly. To make it simpler--dual coil atties require more wattage than singles, but not quite twice as much. They produce more vapor due to increased surface. When in doubt--start low and adjust up as needed.

Ohm's Law as it pertains to vaping is really not that complicated--and it's very useful when you want to know what you're doing.

Voltage and wattage are often misunderstood by new vapers. Wattage is the power (heat, sweet spot) that your PV (battery and atomizer) generates. Wattage = Voltage (of your battery) squared divided by Resistance (Ω) of your atomizer [P=V[SUP]2[/SUP]/R]. If you're not good at math, don't worry, use this easy calculator:

Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator

Of course, if you own a VW (variable wattage) device, you don't really need this calculator because your device will do the math for you.

The wattage you want, especially at the beginning of your vaping career, should be somewhere between 4.5 and 8.5 Watts. Anything lower than 4.5 watts may not vaporize your juice properly and will not produce enough warmth and vapor. Anything above 8.5 watts increases the risk of burning the filler in your cartomizers (if you're using them) and even some juices, especially the delicate ones.

There are, of course, other variables, like eliquid and JDD (juice delivery devices) that you're using on your batteries. Seven watts on a filler type cartomizer may feel different than the same 7 watts on a fillerless clearomizer or a dripping atomizer. The same is true for different eliquids; tobaccos, chocolate and coffees generally require more wattage (heat), while fruit and other delicate flavors do better with less heat. Everyone's sweet spot is different--those are just very general guidelines.

Experiment and you'll find your own bliss in no time!

The chart below is a good guide to safe vaping, even though some think it's a bit conservative.

You should also learn about batteries and how to safely use them. Bad's blog is a great intro:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected-icr.html

Good luck and happy reading.

 

[Roh Echt]

Hi Roh and welcome. First of all, let's start with a little tutorial, because I have a feeling that either your multimeter is malfunctioning or you're not using it correctly, perhaps? The resistance of the leads should not exceed 0.5Ω on a good multimeter.

"A vaper without a multimeter is like a doctor without a stethoscope."
-Switched

Buy a multimeter. Any digital multimeter will do, you don't need a Fluke! You can get a good one for $15-25 from Sears, Lowe's or on the Amazon. You need your multimeter to check the resistance of your atomizers and/or voltage of your battery.

Connect the black test lead to the jack marked "Common" or "-"; connect the red test lead to the jack marked with the Ω (Ohm symbol) or letter "R" near it.

To check the resistance of your atomizers:

1. Turn your multimeter on and select the lowest Ohms setting, usually 200Ω.

2. Look at the display; the left side of the screen should display number 1.

3. First, test the resistance of your leads. Touch to two leads together, firmly, and wait for numbers to stabilize. On the right side of the screen, you should see a number between 0.0 and 0.4, or so. This is the resistance of your leads. Remember that number.

4. Now, to test your atty. Position your carto firmly on your desk; you don't want it to slip and slide all over the place. Touch one lead to the hole in the center of the atty and the other lead to the threads. Again read the display after the numbers have stabilized.

5. Subtract the resistance of your leads (#3) from the resistance of your atty(#4). This is the resistance of your atomizer.

This process takes some getting used to. Steady hand helps. Just keep practicing and you'll figure it out.

There are many tutorials on Youtube--watch them if you're a visual learner:

I like this one by GeekGirlVaper:



If you only want to check the resistance of your atomizers, you may want to consider buying this Atomizer and Cartomizer Ohm Meter--a very nifty, albeit single use, device:

It can be used with all native 510 and 901/808 connectors; extensions or adapters are needed to test other atomizers (including eGo-threaded heads, which require a 510>eGo adapter). Many vendors carry them, including Smoktech, MadVapes, IndyVaporShop and others.

If you own an APV that checks the resistance of your atomizers, like Vamo, Zmax, eVic or ProVari, you don't need to buy a multimeter.

I have followed all of the steps previously, actually, and it is exactly as you say. There is a '1' left on my screen and when leads are touched, with the meter set on 200, it reads 1.0 on the right of the screen. Having no trouble with making great connection for testing, whether it is a new or used repl. coil, they read 3.0 and 3.6 when both types are marked 1.8 ohm. It is one of the cheapest ohm/volt meter I could find when it was purchased a couple of years ago. I will likely upgrade the multimeter as well as ordering the 2-n-1 ohm volt box pictured above. I know enough to figure all of this out having some electrical engineering offered back in my mech eng. tech classes. I do understand parallel circuits and ohms law. I just cannot figure out why the ohms are off...and should I discuss it with the org I purchased them from. One is not that far off as it is reading 2.0 ohms and the other is 2.6 ohms subtracting the 1.0 lead resistance. I will likely wait until I receive the 2-in-1 box so I can compare ohms with it and the current multimeter for calibration.

I appreciate all of what is posted so I can assure myself in confidence that I am on the right track here. Going into sub-ohm vaping soon...I thought it good to get a head start on my electrical refresher by checking out my "plug-n-play" gear I currently vape. I hope to pick more brain as the vaping progresses. Cheers all!

 

[Dampmaskin]

There is a '1' left on my screen

It is probably not the number 1, but the letter I, for "infinity": When there is no contact, the resistance is infinite (or close enough).

when leads are touched, with the meter set on 200, it reads 1.0 on the right of the screen.

That is 1.0 too much. It should be 0.0 with touching leads. Is there any way to calibrate your ohm meter? If not, you may need a better ohm meter.

 

[mgmrick]

This sounds more like an issue with a faulty meter rather than false advertising by a vendor. Yes not all coils are perfect but until you have a working ohm's meter you should not be blaming someone for false advertising

Hello, I'm new here and one year into vaping. I have my 1st mech mod, Kamry 101, on its way...was just shipped today and expect it within a week.
So I have been looking into more of the ohms and volts side of vaping in order to do this right.
So, since I have original equipment I started with...I thought to do some checking into my current equipment.

The issue I am having is...I purchase the lowest ohm coil replacements for my clearomizers that I can find. They are supposed to be 1.8ohm. I have two different 1.8 replacement coils for two different styles. I had been setting my volts per a reference card...tells which volts to set the VV's for whichever ohm the coil is.

So...I decided to test the ohms of those replacement coils today to find they are not 1.8 ohms. They are 3.0 ohm and 3.5 ohm for the two styles. So then I figure what the volts should be set at...per those ohms and discover that I cannot provide more than 6 volts. My meter only reads volts and resistance so I cannot calculate volts per the amps provided by a battery reading, but they are said to be a 3 amp continuous output for my 1200mah VV's. For a 3 amp and 3 ohm combo...my volts should be set at 9v.

Question: Do I trust the advertised proclamation of 1.8? Or do I trust my own ohm meter reading and toss this question over to my provider? They do produce better vapage at 6v than they ever did in the low 3v range....so ...?

 

[Mutescream]

if there is more than a 10% deviation, there is a problem. If the meter can't be calibrated, you have an issue (and should be replaced by one of a higher quality).

 

[rurwin]

My meter is a fairly cheap although fully functional one. I'm into electronics too so it's not real cheap. It works great for coils. In fact when you touch the leads together it auto-calibrates and factors out the lead resistance by itself.

On the other hand, the meter at work is a Fluke, it must have cost at least twice what mine did, but it is a very low-end one. Its lowest resistance range is 2000 ohms, which means I get no decimal point. Trying to wind a coil when all you get is a display dodging between 1 and 2 is no fun at all.

 

[sawtoothscream]

hold the leads together and see what it reads, take that number and sudtract it from what it reads on your atty and that is the real number.

EX: leads say .9 ohm your atty says 2.9ohm so your ohms = 2ohm