Favourite Coil On Your Reo
- Thread starter SingedVapor
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Another way to put it is like this, and true for all mods - say the mod has a total resistance of 50 milliohms, i.e. 0.050 ohms, which is the combined resistance of the battery contacts, the switch, and the wiring (or metal conductors); or basically any resistance between the battery terminals and the kanthal wire in the atty, so this includes the posts in the atty and the 510 connection, and any losses inside the atty, like from the positive post of the 510 to the positive post connected to one end of the atty coil.
Voltage drop within the mod is calculated like this: voltage drop = amps x resistance.
Say the total resistance of your mod is 0.050 ohms between the battery terminals and the coil.
Therefore at 5 amps there is a 5 x 0.050 = 0.25V drop
At 10 amps double that = 0.5V drop.
At 20 amps there is a 1V drop.
Note how the mod resistance is fixed, but the voltage drop within the mod increases with amps (or a lower resistance coil).
Now to add a bit more complication, the battery voltage also drops with increasing amps, because it too has an internal resistance, 10 to 20 milliohms (0.010 ohms to 0.020 ohms) is not unusual.
At 10 amps and 0.020 ohms internal resistance in the battery, the fully charged battery reading 4.2V at rest will only deliver 4.0V max to the mod.
The sub ohm vaping scene using a single lithium cell is pushing the boundaries of low-voltage high-current technology by asking for the lowest possible resistance inside the mod. Traditionally the answer has simply been to use a higher voltage source with less current to deliver the same power, and therefore resistive losses are minimized, but with vaping it is safer to use a single cell rather than 2 cells in series, so manufacturers are trying to deal with where we are right now.
There might be a question: How do you know what the internal resistance of a mod is?
Answer: It requires test equipment that costs maybe several hundred dollars minimum, and requires an operator who knows exactly what they are doing to get a meaningful reading.
Sorry for the ramblings.
Voltage drop within the mod is calculated like this: voltage drop = amps x resistance.
Say the total resistance of your mod is 0.050 ohms between the battery terminals and the coil.
Therefore at 5 amps there is a 5 x 0.050 = 0.25V drop
At 10 amps double that = 0.5V drop.
At 20 amps there is a 1V drop.
Note how the mod resistance is fixed, but the voltage drop within the mod increases with amps (or a lower resistance coil).
Now to add a bit more complication, the battery voltage also drops with increasing amps, because it too has an internal resistance, 10 to 20 milliohms (0.010 ohms to 0.020 ohms) is not unusual.
At 10 amps and 0.020 ohms internal resistance in the battery, the fully charged battery reading 4.2V at rest will only deliver 4.0V max to the mod.
The sub ohm vaping scene using a single lithium cell is pushing the boundaries of low-voltage high-current technology by asking for the lowest possible resistance inside the mod. Traditionally the answer has simply been to use a higher voltage source with less current to deliver the same power, and therefore resistive losses are minimized, but with vaping it is safer to use a single cell rather than 2 cells in series, so manufacturers are trying to deal with where we are right now.
There might be a question: How do you know what the internal resistance of a mod is?
Answer: It requires test equipment that costs maybe several hundred dollars minimum, and requires an operator who knows exactly what they are doing to get a meaningful reading.
Sorry for the ramblings.
Would be much easier to explain with drawings of simple DC circuits to explain differences in series circuits and parallel circuits.
29 ga kanthal, spaced coil on a 1/16" mandrel using 2mm ceramic ReadyxWick, last forever only needing dry burns.
where do you buy this ready wick? I've never tried it. How's the flavor? I tried ekowool but wasnt' a fan is it like that?
RBA Supplies LLC
Depends on which ekowool and what you didn't like
This is hollow core, some ekowool is and some are not. I've used all the cottons, silica and ekowool. Much prefer this, my current coils and wicks are going on week 11. Just a dry burn and back to 100%.
Here's before and after dry burn.
Depends on which ekowool and what you didn't like
This is hollow core, some ekowool is and some are not. I've used all the cottons, silica and ekowool. Much prefer this, my current coils and wicks are going on week 11. Just a dry burn and back to 100%.
Here's before and after dry burn.
Oh after initial burn adds no flavor. I find spaced coils to give more flavor and more hits between squonks.
If you find you do not like it just shoot me a pm. I will gladly take it off your hands and add to my stash.
I got to say this thread is driving me nuts! I have re wicked and coiled my atty like 6 time in the last few days. Trying out different coils,gage and wick. 
I got to say this thread is driving me nuts! I have re wicked and coiled my atty like 6 time in the last few days. Trying out different coils,gage and wick.
Same have I. I even went back and pulled out some old Ekowool and tried using it. Now I'm right back to square one that I was in post one except with one little change.
Now the coils are spaced out instead.
Same have I. I even went back and pulled out some old Ekowool and tried using it. Now I'm right back to square one that I was in post one except with one little change.
Now the coils are spaced out instead.
I did the same thing. Puled out the old Ekowool did a 6 wrap with 26g. I got a .7ohm coil and well ill be re wicking in the morning. I now know why out of the foot I purchased I still have just over half left.
Yep same.
In my experience, this simple coil is the God Coil. The best compromise between all the things we're chasing...
j.
Still have my trident at .28 with 28 gauge. I need to rebuild it with 26 gauge because I find that even at higher ohms, the flavor and vapor are better, probably because of the increased surface area
I had started with 32 gauge @ around 1.6 on the mini, which was fine. Thought it was perfect. Then, I coiled my Grand on 28 gauge @ 1.0 and that was amazing (TKO juice). Thought that was perfect.
Now, the Woodville I have (not sure of what gauge is on it) is coiled at .81 (which, frankly, I had never even thought of going down to), and it is INSANE with CLS + GCD and a dash of PBC.
SO MANY CHOICES!
Now, the Woodville I have (not sure of what gauge is on it) is coiled at .81 (which, frankly, I had never even thought of going down to), and it is INSANE with CLS + GCD and a dash of PBC.
SO MANY CHOICES!
My ADV RM2 has a 6/7 wrap twisted 28g microcoil, that was wrapped around a 16g luer lock needle, measuring in at .6Ω.
Coil was born December 26th 2013, I raved about it in this post HERE, and she still works like new today with every other day dry burning, rinsing under a faucet, and re-wicking.
I love trying out different builds in my other atties, and they do indeed change things up drastically and wonderfully, but my main RM2 houses that same old and dependable workhorse of a coil. Same reliable all day vape going on 9 months now. It's my "brand of smokes", so to speak.
Cheers
Coil was born December 26th 2013, I raved about it in this post HERE, and she still works like new today with every other day dry burning, rinsing under a faucet, and re-wicking.
I love trying out different builds in my other atties, and they do indeed change things up drastically and wonderfully, but my main RM2 houses that same old and dependable workhorse of a coil. Same reliable all day vape going on 9 months now. It's my "brand of smokes", so to speak.
Cheers
I use 28g Kanthal / 7 turns / on a 5/64 drill - are approximately 1 ohm - workes fine for me 
Messing around some more on my RM2
MOST FLAVOURFUL VAPE YET
Oh my goodness sitting the coil on a cotton cloud produces such amazing flavour. This is not for making lots of vapor this is solely for flavour.
- Status
