Few questions & help

[Magic School Bus]

I realize a lot of these have probably been asked before but I'm having a difficult time navigating the site.

1. Is temperature control really THAT much better than a good kanthol build?
2. What would be best to use to test my builds: dedicated ohm meter or my multimeter?
3. Is the istick 50 the best 50-60$ device or should I pay more for a 100+w device, is Anything over 50 watts that much better and worth it? Or is I just a warmer vape?
4. Where is a decent place to get cotton that doesn't rip you off? What about wire?

Thank you for your help!

 

[93gc40]

I realize a lot of these have probably been asked before but I'm having a difficult time navigating the site.

1. Is temperature control really THAT much better than a good kanthol build?
2. What would be best to use to test my builds: dedicated ohm meter or my multimeter?
3. Is the istick 50 the best 50-60$ device or should I pay more for a 100+w device, is Anything over 50 watts that much better and worth it? Or is I just a warmer vape?
4. Where is a decent place to get cotton that doesn't rip you off? What about wire?

Thank you for your help!

1 Temp control means you dont HAVE to have a good build.they are not mutually exclusive.
2 Dedicated 510 meter backup by a GOOD multi meter.
3 Do you need 100watts? If not what does it matter how it compares price wise to a 50watt device? You need to learn what watts in vaping means in the first place before making this decision.
4 Cotton - CVS, Walgreens, Walmart. Wire - Never gotten ripped off by Lightning Vapes.

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

I realize a lot of these have probably been asked before but I'm having a difficult time navigating the site.

1. Is temperature control really THAT much better than a good kanthol build?

I don't guess it's a better tasting vape or anything. It just keeps you from overheating things and burning up wicking material, getting toxic stuff in your vapor.

2. What would be best to use to test my builds: dedicated ohm meter or my multimeter?

If you're not building low ohm stuff a digital multimeter would be fine. But the dedicated ohm meters are nice for building. I just picked up one from USA Ohm Meters that's supposed to be pretty accurate.

3. Is the istick 50 the best 50-60$ device or should I pay more for a 100+w device, is Anything over 50 watts that much better and worth it? Or is I just a warmer vape?

I think the iStick is a great device for the $$$. It's probably enough power for most people, but some use more.

4. Where is a decent place to get cotton that doesn't rip you off? What about wire?

Cotton: $12 for like 60 pads of untreated organic Japanese cotton.

KohGenDo Cosmetics High Definition Cosmetics - Home

Wire: $7.50ish per 100 feet.

TEMCo Industrial Power Supply

 

[EBates]

I realize a lot of these have probably been asked before but I'm having a difficult time navigating the site.

1. Is temperature control really THAT much better than a good kanthol build?

I've never used a DNA40 device so I can't be of much help there. I really don't think I have a need for one.

2. What would be best to use to test my builds: dedicated ohm meter or my multimeter?

I have both, a box dedicated to checking a built atty and a digital multi meter for testing mods, attys and general use. I really don't trust a cheap DMM for checking even 1 ohm coils.

3. Is the istick 50 the best 50-60$ device or should I pay more for a 100+w device, is Anything over 50 watts that much better and worth it? Or is I just a warmer vape?

The Istick 50 from all I've read is a great mod but having just bought a 50watt hana clone from Fasttech I can't justify one right now.

4. Where is a decent place to get cotton that doesn't rip you off? What about wire?

Cotton - Sterile cotton balls from walmart/CVS
Kanthal A1 - Resistance Wire


Thank you for your help!

I don't vape above about 10 watts. I own a 50watt and 30watt mod Hana clones that I just love. Note: FT has the istick 50 for less than $50

 

[Magic School Bus]

3 Do you need 100watts? If not what does it matter how it compares price wise to a 50watt device? You need to learn what watts in vaping means in the first place before making this decision.

What im asking is, what is the difference between a sub ohm build at 50 watts vs 50,60,80,etc in flavor and vapor. I don't want to buy a low wattage device then turn around and wish I spent a few bucks more for more wattage.

 

[RamShot Rowdy]

This is a little outside my area of knowledge and hopefully someone with more experience can answer your question.

I don't really know of any devices, except rebuildable drip atomizers (RDA), that can be run over 50 watts. Most would overheat at even 50 watts. Even the new sub ohm tanks (Atlantis, SubTank, Delta II) generally can't handle over 50 watts. I also see people run RDAs under 50 watts, but some run them higher.

 

[v1k1ng1001]

I realize a lot of these have probably been asked before but I'm having a difficult time navigating the site.

1. Is temperature control really THAT much better than a good kanthol build?
2. What would be best to use to test my builds: dedicated ohm meter or my multimeter?
3. Is the istick 50 the best 50-60$ device or should I pay more for a 100+w device, is Anything over 50 watts that much better and worth it? Or is I just a warmer vape?
4. Where is a decent place to get cotton that doesn't rip you off? What about wire?

Thank you for your help!

1. Temp control is great if you are sitting on a pile of disposable income that you would like to allocate to vaping gear. I don't really see it as a must-have feature if you know what you're doing. When the price drops, maybe I'll consider it.

2. Dedicated ohm reader.

3. I prefer the sigelei 50w v2 and the ipv mini v2 70w as they both feature the yihi board. The build quality on the Sigelei is excellent. Both will cost a little more than the istick (look for sales or on ebay). The primary argument for the istick, as I see it, is the battery capacity. The primary con of the istick is that it does not feature a replaceable battery and may not regulate as well as a yihi-driven device. Unless you're blasting out dual coil RDA builds, 50w should be more than enough. The advantage of the Sigelei 100w + over the 50w is that you have increased battery capacity and overhead for more exotic builds.

4. Make sure to get organic cotton and I've gotten the best wire from Temco via Amazon. Note that if you go with temp control you will have to run nickel or ti.

 

[silenuz]

I have a sigelei 150 for the same reasons you bring up about buyers regret, and I play around and use it at the house for bigger builds, playing around and nerding out, and not having to worry about overdoing it. I still ended up getting the istick 30 mainly for the size and with one of the many .5 subohm tanks out there I get a perfectly satisfying vape so I can carry it to work, it's much smaller, and i'm not blowing these big obnoxious clouds around a bunch of people who still look at vaping as something weird. I use it more than my 150 for those reasons, too.

 

[Thrasher]

Woo hoo
Temco and Lv for the win 2 awesome sellers

 

[edyle]

I realize a lot of these have probably been asked before but I'm having a difficult time navigating the site.

1. Is temperature control really THAT much better than a good kanthol build?
2. What would be best to use to test my builds: dedicated ohm meter or my multimeter?
3. Is the istick 50 the best 50-60$ device or should I pay more for a 100+w device, is Anything over 50 watts that much better and worth it? Or is I just a warmer vape?
4. Where is a decent place to get cotton that doesn't rip you off? What about wire?

Thank you for your help!

1: Temperature control is still new, but it would be the next step up in the series:
(a) battery voltage (starts high and drops gradually)
(b) regulated voltage (constant voltage)
(c) variable voltage (constant voltage where you can choose the voltage)
(d) variable wattage (constant power where you can choose the power)
(e) temperature control (constant temperature where you can choose the temperature)

2: depends;
If you're not going dangerously low, the ohmmeter on a regulated mod is fine.

3: the isticks are a good buy for new vapers because of what you get for the price.
More power means faster usage of liquid; how hot the vape is depends on the power and the coil.

4: cotton!? if you want fancy cotton look for rayon or ko den jo; otherwise just get..........cotton; I bought a bag of cotton balls a year ago at some pharmacy, still using it. Used to boil a ball once in a while, but I don't bother anymore.

 

[edyle]

What im asking is, what is the difference between a sub ohm build at 50 watts vs 50,60,80,etc in flavor and vapor. I don't want to buy a low wattage device then turn around and wish I spent a few bucks more for more wattage.

28 gauge vapes at about 1 ohm at 4 volts.
That's 3 ohms at 12 volts.
that's 1.5 ohms dual coil at 12 volts
that's 0.75 ohms quad coil at 12 volts

That's going to want something like 64 watts.
If you use 26 gauge you're going to want more watts that than, like maybe twice as much.


Basically you might want to work the other way around; build your coil to suit your device.

I'm satisfied myself vaping on 15 watt mods; I think $dollar$ wise you probably going to get the best deals in the 30-60 watt region.

 

[Magic School Bus]

28 gauge vapes at about 1 ohm at 4 volts.
That's 3 ohms at 12 volts.
that's 1.5 ohms dual coil at 12 volts
that's 0.75 ohms quad coil at 12 volts

That's going to want something like 64 watts.
If you use 26 gauge you're going to want more watts that than, like maybe twice as much.


Basically you might want to work the other way around; build your coil to suit your device.

I'm satisfied myself vaping on 15 watt mods; I think $dollar$ wise you probably going to get the best deals in the 30-60 watt region.

Im not sure how this relates to what I was asking.

 

[Magic School Bus]

4: cotton!? if you want fancy cotton look for rayon or ko den jo; otherwise just get..........cotton; I bought a bag of cotton balls a year ago at some pharmacy, still using it. Used to boil a ball once in a while, but I don't bother anymore.

Ive used just regular organic cotton from the stOre and it gave an awful taste.

 

[Magic School Bus]

Thank you guys for all you help and bearing with me while i learn.

So would the istick 50 be able to handle dual coil builds that would make excellent And satisfying flavor and vapor from the goblin and marquis ot would it not be enough to realize their full potential?? If so what kind of build should I do? 24,26,28?

 

[edyle]

Thank you guys for all you help and bearing with me while i learn.

So would the istick 50 be able to handle dual coil builds that would make excellent And satisfying flavor and vapor from the goblin and marquis ot would it not be enough to realize their full potential?? If so what kind of build should I do? 24,26,28?

1: Yes; but you have to pay attention to the wire gauge
2: 28 will definitely work.
26 will need more power per ohm than 28.
24 will need more power per ohm than 26.

 

[edyle]

What im asking is, what is the difference between a sub ohm build at 50 watts vs 50,60,80,etc in flavor and vapor. I don't want to buy a low wattage device then turn around and wish I spent a few bucks more for more wattage.

The more watt, the more vapour.
But for flavour, each particular coil will have a sweet spot.

Wicking will also affect performace.

Use the coil calculator
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

 

[Foggyroomz]

The I-Stick 50 watt is a great device especially for the money it will handle down to 0.20 ohms and can power dual coils just fine. Understand that you can get a satisfying vape At 20 watts it is all about preference if you want a hotter vape then get a Sigelei 100 watt plus and you can run a .2 build at 75 to 85 watts and it will be much warmer vape . Do you know anything about ohms law? A .20 build on a mechanical mod is 88 watts and 21 amps @ 4.2 volts most people just starting out will find this to be hot. The UD Goblin is an awesome tank but you won't need more than 50 watts to get a great flavorful vape from it. I use a sub-tank mini on my Sigelei 150 watt @ 25.5 watts with a rebuilt coil head @.40 ohms and flavor and vapor are great for an all day vape. I have my plume veil built @ .20 and run it @ 70 watts and it is a very warm and vapor full build clouds for days. My Tobh is built down to .15 and I run it at 135 watts which is hot but is for major clouds and not something you want to vape all day so again it boils down to what will satisfy you and your budget.

 

[Magic School Bus]

So does a lower gauge(22,24,) give better clouds and flavour than a higher gauge(28,30)?

 

[Magic School Bus]

The more watt, the more vapour.
But for flavour, each particular coil will have a sweet spot.

Wicking will also affect performace.

Use the coil calculator
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Wow that calculator is just what I've been looking for, thanks!

 

[Magic School Bus]

The I-Stick 50 watt is a great device especially for the money it will handle down to 0.20 ohms and can power dual coils just fine. Understand that you can get a satisfying vape At 20 watts it is all about preference if you want a hotter vape then get a Sigelei 100 watt plus and you can run a .2 build at 75 to 85 watts and it will be much warmer vape . Do you know anything about ohms law? A .20 build on a mechanical mod is 88 watts and 21 amps @ 4.2 volts most people just starting out will find this to be hot. The UD Goblin is an awesome tank but you won't need more than 50 watts to get a great flavorful vape from it. I use a sub-tank mini on my Sigelei 150 watt @ 25.5 watts with a rebuilt coil head @.40 ohms and flavor and vapor are great for an all day vape. I have my plume veil built @ .20 and run it @ 70 watts and it is a very warm and vapor full build clouds for days. My Tobh is built down to .15 and I run it at 135 watts which is hot but is for major clouds and not something you want to vape all day so again it boils down to what will satisfy you and your budget.

Very helpful thanks, I guess like most people I want to be able to do a wide variety of builds and not have buyers remorse, and on a budget.

Could you or anyone else suggest a device for 50-70 bucks that has the highest wattage and accuracy? I like the smok xpro m80 but not sure how accurate regular kanthol mode is maybe they'll sort out the temp stuff later but 55 bucks for 80 watts sounds great.