Few questions
- Thread starter gouki
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Maybe you are true Mak but as you saw I was in a big hurry to make video short so easy to be uploaded on youtube
I made 2 editions of pins. The first one had a threaded head and the second one had not. You can send what ever you have Rob, they work the same.
Thanks for the link but i already ordered from VK with a few things to save me the headache.
Thanks for the demo but i already ordered it before i saw this lol. Also my center pin have no threads on the top but has a slit. I used too much force to pull down the center pin and not knowing i put it back and that is what made me break the o-rings. Looking at Rob's YouTube video for the button is it just me or the new button you can't adjust the lock ring? In the video the button has threads running all the way through it but the new button doesn't.
yes, slit is for cartomizers Gouki. And yes I understand what you did there. Next time if you pull the pin totally out please unscrew the polygonal nut too and then put out the o-rings by pushing them with the pin but from the other side of connector (where you put atomizers). Then you put the pin inside the polygonal nut, put the o-rings around the pin and push them until they reach the polygonal nut and then put the whole thing inside plastic. Then start screwing the polygonal nut only by hand until it stops. Done
They work the same but if you pull on the unthreaded one too far it comes out...then when they put the pin back in, it damages the o-rings.
I don't have either one at the moment...
I don't have either one at the moment...
You dont push the pin against o-rings Rob. You take o-rings off and then you put them carefully on the pin. Then you put the whole thing inside plastic and then screw the polygonal nut. I dont have a set here to show you.
Grrrrrrrr. Yes I know that. The problem is people don't know the pin will come out and they push it back in to fix it but wind up breaking it.
That's why I asked why you removed the threads because I wasn't aware they weren't there until someone told me their pin pulled right out.
My video shows pulling the pin to adjust it for various atomizers and could be causing some people to inadvertantly damage the o-rings when they go to re-install the pin.
You put threads back on pin NOW!
My video shows pulling the pin to adjust it for various atomizers and could be causing some people to inadvertantly damage the o-rings when they go to re-install the pin.
You put threads back on pin NOW!
I have only seen the non-threaded pins, so I don't know how it worked with the older version. One thought I've been having is how this could be modified to prevent (or significantly mitigate the chances of) pushing the pin too far into the atty by over-tightening the telescope.
If the pin, or most of the pin, was threaded, one could conceivably turn the pin until it makes contact with the atty. When one is subsequently tightening the telescope, even if it is tightened too much, the threads would prevent the pin from being pushed into the atty.
My method has been to add a series of nylon (and a few metal) washers between the end of the pin (the flat bottom) and the hex bolt above it. Each washer is fractionally different in thickness due to manufacturer tolerances, so it took several tries with different combinations of washers to get the precise height.
What I am left with is a limit to the protrusion of the pin upward to the atty. Of course, if the height of the washers is even the slightest bit too tall, the pin won't make contact with the atty and thus it won't fire. But when the right height is met, the chance that the pin will damage the atty is close to zero.
Of course, I still don't over tighten, but I am comfortable knowing that i can tighten it enough that it isn't going to unscrew with normal handling, and I won't be getting another hot battery -- once was enough.
There could be an engineering solution in future models that could solve this "problem". Threading the pin is one way, though there are others. Again, I did not see the original threaded pin, so it may not have addressed this.
Picture attached.
If the pin, or most of the pin, was threaded, one could conceivably turn the pin until it makes contact with the atty. When one is subsequently tightening the telescope, even if it is tightened too much, the threads would prevent the pin from being pushed into the atty.
My method has been to add a series of nylon (and a few metal) washers between the end of the pin (the flat bottom) and the hex bolt above it. Each washer is fractionally different in thickness due to manufacturer tolerances, so it took several tries with different combinations of washers to get the precise height.
What I am left with is a limit to the protrusion of the pin upward to the atty. Of course, if the height of the washers is even the slightest bit too tall, the pin won't make contact with the atty and thus it won't fire. But when the right height is met, the chance that the pin will damage the atty is close to zero.
Of course, I still don't over tighten, but I am comfortable knowing that i can tighten it enough that it isn't going to unscrew with normal handling, and I won't be getting another hot battery -- once was enough.
There could be an engineering solution in future models that could solve this "problem". Threading the pin is one way, though there are others. Again, I did not see the original threaded pin, so it may not have addressed this.
Picture attached.
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I didnt made a threaded pin to work as you said 5the because screwing the telescope hard we will damage the plastic insulant with this pin. So I put o-rings there. But screwing a threaded pin is like pulling it down a little, then screw the atty and then push it until it makes the contact as exactly we do now, so the current method is easier because it hasnt threads and we can prevent the damage of the plastic.
The permanent solution is the AFS. It has a standard push to the atty and at the same time you can screw the telescope hard without worring about the atty. You can also be able to vape as you like without refilling all the time, messing with carts, liquid etc.
Glad to hear the AFS will accomplish that.
Rob - when do we get to pre-order these things? I don't want to be asleep and miss out on the first shipment.
Rob - when do we get to pre-order these things? I don't want to be asleep and miss out on the first shipment.
I also forgot to say that even if someone dont want to vape with the AFS (I dont know anyone) I will soon solve this problem with the new iatties. I have said 3 months before that I had an idea about this but China keeps sending me the wrong stuff. 4 samples, all wrong!!!!
In about 1-2 weeks I am waiting the newer samples. Lets wait and see.
In about 1-2 weeks I am waiting the newer samples. Lets wait and see.
another thing that I have to mention 5the is that an all threaded pin solution exists on the slim. There are different 901 atties so you can just unscrew the pin to make the best contact. On Slim there is no danger to damage the plastic because it has a spring with a standard push and not a telescope
Rob, I cant bring back the threaded pin (threads only on its head at 1mm length) because it was more difficult for people to unscrew the nail and after this the polygonal nut with the pin attached to it and then screw again the pin with the polygonal attached to it and after that the polygonal nut. I wanted something more simple, you know my style. Also there is a danger for not advanced users for cross-theading pin and plastic. If this happen then the plastic threads will get damaged and the o-rings will find the place to come out of plastic and go inside the connector
Now people can simple put out the o-rings and put them on the nail. They will screw the polygonal nut on the plastic and thats it
Now people can simple put out the o-rings and put them on the nail. They will screw the polygonal nut on the plastic and thats it
Unfortunately probably never. I am heavily against pre-orders.
If Imeo would put up a poll and we can estimate the number of people interested in buying it would help me decide how many to order.
If Imeo would put up a poll and we can estimate the number of people interested in buying it would help me decide how many to order.
Rob and Lisa dont take preorders 5the but I think they have a system to inform anyone for the new arrivals. Is that right Rob or not?
Yes I can build a product code and let everyone sign up for the "Back in stock" emails.
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