Greetings from a n00b to the forum, and my deepest appreciation for all the good info I've gotten from lurking. I joined today as I have something to say finally.
I have recently started RBA tanks on my Itaste SVD and VTR mods, and the first one I selected was a Fogger V4. (Thanks again to the many contributors to the various V4 threads here, you guys sold me.) I still haven't figured out a good build for it, but I have solved one of the problems, which was it was hard and messy to fill. The fill hole on the V4 is in the base of the tank adjacent to the 510 connector. You remove a screw and the fill hole runs up into a saw cut in the side of the unit base, between the threads for the tanks base and the threads for the barrel base of the chimney surrounding the build deck. When filling, the juice would 'stack up' in the saw cut and prevent air from flowing out the fill hole around the fill needle (syringe or Ucan, I tried both.)
I took it apart again to today to try a new build-- still a failure on that, burning and popping today, think I went too far and didn't use enough cotton this time-- and I took my Dremel tool with a 1/8" flat end mill (too big, needed 1/16th but didn't have) and worked on the side of the saw cut closest to the build deck. That's normally the top, but you fill it upside down, so it's the bottom side in fill mode. The idea is to work an angle into the cut sidewall to let the juice flow down into the tank and the air go up above it and around the needle and out. Take very great care not to polish it so deep you remove the shelf/seal below the build deck where the barrel mates or the chamber will flood. Do not work the other side of the saw cut as that is the area for the o-ring seal below the glass. I worked the mill in the cut as deep as it would go without touching the other side wall, and then finished the job using the side of a cut-off wheel. While you're in there, you might as well polish off the burr left by drilling the fill hole into the saw cut, which the manufacturer didn't get around to. No real need for it, but you're sitting there with the Dremel in your hand...
If you had a narrow diameter diamond burr, either cylindrical or conical so long as it is of less diameter than the saw cut is wide, you could do it in one pass without changing tools. In any event, it works like a dream. I put the needle in the fill hole to the bottom,pushed the plunger, and the juice slid down the glass wall of the tank without backing up and puking out of the fill hole as usual.
Now, if I could just figure out how to build it...
If anybody else is having the same trouble, I think this would work for you. Hope it helps and happy vaping.
I have recently started RBA tanks on my Itaste SVD and VTR mods, and the first one I selected was a Fogger V4. (Thanks again to the many contributors to the various V4 threads here, you guys sold me.) I still haven't figured out a good build for it, but I have solved one of the problems, which was it was hard and messy to fill. The fill hole on the V4 is in the base of the tank adjacent to the 510 connector. You remove a screw and the fill hole runs up into a saw cut in the side of the unit base, between the threads for the tanks base and the threads for the barrel base of the chimney surrounding the build deck. When filling, the juice would 'stack up' in the saw cut and prevent air from flowing out the fill hole around the fill needle (syringe or Ucan, I tried both.)
I took it apart again to today to try a new build-- still a failure on that, burning and popping today, think I went too far and didn't use enough cotton this time-- and I took my Dremel tool with a 1/8" flat end mill (too big, needed 1/16th but didn't have) and worked on the side of the saw cut closest to the build deck. That's normally the top, but you fill it upside down, so it's the bottom side in fill mode. The idea is to work an angle into the cut sidewall to let the juice flow down into the tank and the air go up above it and around the needle and out. Take very great care not to polish it so deep you remove the shelf/seal below the build deck where the barrel mates or the chamber will flood. Do not work the other side of the saw cut as that is the area for the o-ring seal below the glass. I worked the mill in the cut as deep as it would go without touching the other side wall, and then finished the job using the side of a cut-off wheel. While you're in there, you might as well polish off the burr left by drilling the fill hole into the saw cut, which the manufacturer didn't get around to. No real need for it, but you're sitting there with the Dremel in your hand...
Now, if I could just figure out how to build it...