I know I know, another box mod 
I picked orange because i thought nobody had tried it out (after ordering i found i was wrong). Although this is a build many others have done before i decided to post it because this is the first intricate piece i've built since about 1993 when i was in the 7th grade (built a potato box for my mother).
This is pretty pic heavy but i hope it answers many of the questions i had when researching a build. If their are any questions, fire away!!
A few take-a ways from this project are as follows:
* I wish i would have realized that filing/drilling the mod was much safer to do on a roll of tape. significantly reduces the chance of scuffing the paint. I also retaped the box every time i moved to a new area of the mod so as not to have old file shavings that stuck to the tape scratch the mod.
* Always file with tape around the focus area. While i did this with the dna30 slot and wattage buttons i didn't do it when i bored out the fire hole to 16mm. I didn't have a drill bit large enough so i used a finishing file and put a few scratches on my baby.
* Use silicone wire. Much more flexible.
* Ensure you use flux when soldering (dip your wire in it before inserting into the board). i attempted to use rosin core solder but the pads on the dna30 and micro usb board were super small, utilizing flux saved a ....load of time and reduced the chance of melting your wire or damaging the board.
* Use 24 gauge wire on the fire switch and momentary switches. It's a little more flexible and much easier to throw in the boards.
* Do yourself a favor and remove the fire switch on the DNA30 board. I thought i had all of my measurements right and wouldn't have to do it but i didn't account for the wires to push the battery sled towards the board and vice versa.
* Make sure to not bend your wattage switch legs until you are sure you know exactly how they need to route. I had to relocate mine a couple times and cringed. Thought i was going to break them off.
* Don't drill the hole half assed. Drill a pilot hole with a smaller bit and then attack it with the larger bit. If you go too slow you significantly increase the chance that the bit will bind. If it binds, either file down the part where the bit got stuck or go to a smaller bit to open the hole a little bit and free up some room for the bigger bit. If you have a vice w/ pads this will make it that much easier.
* Ensure the depth of your fire switch won't interfere with your project. I initially planned on putting one of the tiny wattage adjust buttons as my fire button then decided to go with a 16mm. I had to Frankenstein (really, it wants me to capitalize that) the switch and battery sled a little to make things work.
* Keep a battery handy and constantly check the status of your build. While i actually did this and the stuff above i didn't initially do, figured I'd throw this in there. Figured there would be nothing worse than prematurely patting myself on the back with a finished product only to find out i botched something.
If there is anything else i can think of, I'll throw it in here.
***** Clicking on the picture will take you to a much larger version. You may have to click the link twice due to Flickr wanting to sign you up for it's awesomeness *****
My Workspace. Wife was kind enough to let me borrow the kitchen table. Threw a sheet of thin steel on top to protect it from my abuse and i was good to go.
First holes drilled. Left hole was a lil off center but i fix that later
510 Connector in place. Grounded with a spade connector and stainless washer.
Told you i fixed the hole issue. Finally found a 16mm fire switch i liked.
Prepped for DNA30 board soldering.
About to connect the fire switch and start contorting the mass of wires (next mod will have silicone wire, this .... was a pain in the ... to work with).
Another angle.
Starting to look like a mod.
Threw some epoxy on the 510 connector, fire switch and dna30 face plate first. Battery is also now secured with velcro. I left the wires long so i could remove the batteries in case i wanted to change anything that breaks or needs an upgrade.
Wedged a piece of mountain dew box to secure the dna30 and threw my spare change jar on top of the mod to keep pressure on the micro usb on the bottom while the epoxy sets.
Finished guts.
Another
And again.
SUCCESS!!!!!!
As requested, links to the items i purchased:
6amp Fuses
18650 Battery
Battery holder (go with the keystone if you can find one)
DNA30 Chip
1590b enclosure (will try out a hammond box on my next mod. Thought that's what this was until i received it, pretty close though)
Wattage adjust buttons
Screen cradle clip
Charger cradle
DNA30 screen holder
Evolv charger board (scroll down)
Spring loaded 510 connector
Fire button
20 gauge wire from a local electronics shop
20 gauge shrink wrap from a local shop
Solder and flux from radio shack
Used a 25w weller soldering iron
set of finishing files (mainly the half circle and flat)
Gel epoxy
If i missed anything let me know.
I picked orange because i thought nobody had tried it out (after ordering i found i was wrong). Although this is a build many others have done before i decided to post it because this is the first intricate piece i've built since about 1993 when i was in the 7th grade (built a potato box for my mother).
This is pretty pic heavy but i hope it answers many of the questions i had when researching a build. If their are any questions, fire away!!
A few take-a ways from this project are as follows:
* I wish i would have realized that filing/drilling the mod was much safer to do on a roll of tape. significantly reduces the chance of scuffing the paint. I also retaped the box every time i moved to a new area of the mod so as not to have old file shavings that stuck to the tape scratch the mod.
* Always file with tape around the focus area. While i did this with the dna30 slot and wattage buttons i didn't do it when i bored out the fire hole to 16mm. I didn't have a drill bit large enough so i used a finishing file and put a few scratches on my baby.
* Use silicone wire. Much more flexible.
* Ensure you use flux when soldering (dip your wire in it before inserting into the board). i attempted to use rosin core solder but the pads on the dna30 and micro usb board were super small, utilizing flux saved a ....load of time and reduced the chance of melting your wire or damaging the board.
* Use 24 gauge wire on the fire switch and momentary switches. It's a little more flexible and much easier to throw in the boards.
* Do yourself a favor and remove the fire switch on the DNA30 board. I thought i had all of my measurements right and wouldn't have to do it but i didn't account for the wires to push the battery sled towards the board and vice versa.
* Make sure to not bend your wattage switch legs until you are sure you know exactly how they need to route. I had to relocate mine a couple times and cringed. Thought i was going to break them off.
* Don't drill the hole half assed. Drill a pilot hole with a smaller bit and then attack it with the larger bit. If you go too slow you significantly increase the chance that the bit will bind. If it binds, either file down the part where the bit got stuck or go to a smaller bit to open the hole a little bit and free up some room for the bigger bit. If you have a vice w/ pads this will make it that much easier.
* Ensure the depth of your fire switch won't interfere with your project. I initially planned on putting one of the tiny wattage adjust buttons as my fire button then decided to go with a 16mm. I had to Frankenstein (really, it wants me to capitalize that) the switch and battery sled a little to make things work.
* Keep a battery handy and constantly check the status of your build. While i actually did this and the stuff above i didn't initially do, figured I'd throw this in there. Figured there would be nothing worse than prematurely patting myself on the back with a finished product only to find out i botched something.
If there is anything else i can think of, I'll throw it in here.
***** Clicking on the picture will take you to a much larger version. You may have to click the link twice due to Flickr wanting to sign you up for it's awesomeness *****
My Workspace. Wife was kind enough to let me borrow the kitchen table. Threw a sheet of thin steel on top to protect it from my abuse and i was good to go.
First holes drilled. Left hole was a lil off center but i fix that later
510 Connector in place. Grounded with a spade connector and stainless washer.
Told you i fixed the hole issue. Finally found a 16mm fire switch i liked.
Prepped for DNA30 board soldering.
About to connect the fire switch and start contorting the mass of wires (next mod will have silicone wire, this .... was a pain in the ... to work with).
Another angle.
Starting to look like a mod.
Threw some epoxy on the 510 connector, fire switch and dna30 face plate first. Battery is also now secured with velcro. I left the wires long so i could remove the batteries in case i wanted to change anything that breaks or needs an upgrade.
Wedged a piece of mountain dew box to secure the dna30 and threw my spare change jar on top of the mod to keep pressure on the micro usb on the bottom while the epoxy sets.
Finished guts.
Another
And again.
SUCCESS!!!!!!
As requested, links to the items i purchased:
6amp Fuses
18650 Battery
Battery holder (go with the keystone if you can find one)
DNA30 Chip
1590b enclosure (will try out a hammond box on my next mod. Thought that's what this was until i received it, pretty close though)
Wattage adjust buttons
Screen cradle clip
Charger cradle
DNA30 screen holder
Evolv charger board (scroll down)
Spring loaded 510 connector
Fire button
20 gauge wire from a local electronics shop
20 gauge shrink wrap from a local shop
Solder and flux from radio shack
Used a 25w weller soldering iron
set of finishing files (mainly the half circle and flat)
Gel epoxy
If i missed anything let me know.
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