Finally rebuilt my own coils: Protank, Smoktech Aro, and a bonus CE5

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Nightcall

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Aug 29, 2013
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I got the roll of 50ft 30 gauge Kanthal from Temco and then it was down to getting the cotton. Went with Sugar n' Cream from Michaels. That's a total of about $8 bucks for years worth of coils, you can't beat it.

Started with the Protank heads of course, good for a noob and I had a few used ones left over. Used a toothpick to wrap. A nail clipper to cut cotton and wire. Works well. Probably should have went with 32 gauge Kanthal because my first coil had only 1.2 ohm which I can't fire on my SVD. Damn, now I want to get a mech. Just when I thought I would finally stop buying vape stuff. The next coil had more wraps and was like 1.8 and I put it in my Protank 2. Flavor was kind of muted until I turned up the volts to 4.5+. Cotton can handle more heat? Normally I'd get burnt hits if I went that high with stock Protank heads. I get a bit of gurgling here and there but it hasn't flooded. Managable. Flavor is very good. I built about 5 heads for my Protank and Mini and so far only one shorted.

I had a Smoktech Pyrex Aro laying around and I took it out of retirement to try building that head. Except for the threads it's the same as the Protank. Works beautifully. I got a 1.8 ohm head in there and for now it went from the worst tank to my best tank. Flavor, vapor, and draw is awesome so far. But, it's only been half a tank. It used to flood like crazy. We'll see. This time I'm going to air it out occasionally so air pressure doesn't build up in the tank. I do that with my Protanks also.

I was feeling confident so I said let me try to rebuild this Vision 2.0 CE5 head. It's different, smaller, there's some type of mesh tube in there. Looked complicated. But not really, it's the same principle as the Protank as far as where the leads go and everything. Painstakingly inserted the coil with cotton and the damn thing actually worked. Flavor is kind of weird though. Not sure what's going on there. Maybe it's the MBV Boysenberry that's weird. I think I have 2.3 ohms. It was practically a micro coil with 8 wraps or something because the space is very small. The mesh protects from shorts though which is nice. The hardest part with the Protank heads is keeping the coil away from metal and keeping it straight. Inserting the toothpick in there to keep it straight though works beautifully.

This is fun! What's next? Quad Nano coil on an RDA? Noooooo! Loving cotton. Thank you cotton.

The best how-to video I watched was from Rip Tripper on Youtube. He's very good, detailed and to the point. Recommended.
 

Indagroove

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Nov 10, 2012
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I just built my first micro coil on my PT2 last night, used Tripper's video as a guide.

It listed as 1.6 on my provari and I used cotton. I loved the hits I was getting, but the new juice I put in there was awful. So I am going to build another one tonight just for practice with a known good juice.

I tried just replacing the cotton but the old juice seemed to come off the coil and into the new cotton, was strange but I sat there and watched it. So I am just going with a new coil for the new juice.
 

Nightcall

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Just curious but with the cotton are yall putting the coil in your pt with liquid and then finding out if it works?

Before putting in cotton, I put the the base and the coil head with the new coil on my SVD. I didn't fire it until I checked the ohms. Then you can fire it if it's not shorted to see the coil heating up. After that you can put in your cotton, wet it with liquid, and fire it to see it working with vapor. then you can assemble the rest, tank etc.

I wouldn't do any of this without an ability to check ohms.
 

Nightcall

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a couple of notes:

- a toothpick is ok, but I'd prefer a drill bit because the coil didn't slide off the toothpick that easily. Also, I could heat the coil to stiffen it while it's on the drill bit.

- This Sugar n' Cream yarn is great to work with. It's similar to a silica wick and it's four strands so you can experiment with two or three strands, or maybe use one strand as a flavor wick. But, I think this cotton is dyed white, and I'm not crazy about that. I'd rather have non dyed organic cotton. I didn't buy the organic cotton balls from CVS because they were whitened with hydrogen peroxide. This cotton is great though, glad I went with yarn instead of balls for now. I boiled it twice.

- I'd probably go with a higher resistance 32 gauge Kanthal next time because you need less coils, and there isn't much room to work with on the Protank and Vision heads. Then again now that I got the 30 working with tight coils, it's more coils for the same ohms and perhaps that heats more of the wick for more flavor etc.

- Kanthal is springy as hell. It's started unraveling off my roll and became a mess the more I tried to fix it. I sat there for 15 minutes trying to untangle it and get it wrapped back on the roll. Funny.

- I'm vaping 1.8 ohm in the Protank 2 at 4.8 volts right now (Kentucky Premium Blend). Not a burnt hit in sight. That would have never been possible with a stock Protank head. Actually I haven't had a single burnt hit in the three days I've been doing this.

- a nail clipper works perfectly for this. no need for a wire cutter or scissors etc. I washed and sterilized the nail clipper with alcohol. :blink:
 

Nightcall

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After you do one or two, you realize it's less daunting than expected. I just did four coils that came out between 1.5-1.7ohm and I use organic cotton from CVS :D

After watching a couple of videos and following step by step, it really isn't hard. It can be painstaking though, patience is needed. It's nice to be more in control of my vaping, instead of relying on whatever coil heads the manufacturers throw at us.
 

Alter

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Thumbs up to you for breaking the ice and finding out how flippin easy it is to rebuild a coil. No matter what atty you can now prolly rebuild it. Its not the money saved but the satisfaction of building the coil and nowhere to go but up in vape quality. Most important but the understanding of how crappy those stock heads really are. Working with microcoils and regular coils in my protanks with and without flavor wick. You don't have to use the flavor wick as gap plugs like before but all you need a 1mm silica to stop the juice from splattering and leaving that juice film in your mouth. Microcoils splatter a lot.
I got some of the hemp fiber from a recent co-op and now I shelved my cotton. The hemp so far is lasting longer than the cotton, is more resilient to my everyday vape habits and I'm now at the end of day 4 of this hemp coil in my protank and still doing fine, when I was getting 3..lucky 4 days on a cotton builds before the cotton began to poop out.
 

Alter

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I used 2 pots of water on the stove. Had the hemp boiling in 1 pot and when the other pot got a good boil goin I transfered into the clean water and replaced the water in the first pot and started the boil again and went back and forth for a hour or so, I don't know how many times I changed water but it was lots. Dried the hemp lump on a tea towel ontop of my pellet stove then brushed the hemp with a wire dog brush and ended up with a nice pile of fluffy hemp. I didn't use peroxide and baking soda like stated in the coop thread that some used but if my hemp would have tasted off I was all ready to do so.
I did find upon closer inspection, the fiber has small pieces of a different color and they look a bit stalky so I remove them as I'm going to use it in my coil and haven't had the breakin woody taste I've read hemp could have.
I'm also using a bead threader instead of twisting the hemp like cotton to put into the protank coil. I feel I'm wasting less doing it that way.
BTW..I use a hemp fiber that looks like cotton baton. It wasn't in string form so I'm not sure about the brushing the hemp string.
 
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Moonswanni

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Sep 14, 2013
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Stock/original coils have recently been da red-headed step child!

Apparently, home made coils are kickin' sum major azz...

I just rebuilt my first coil for my mini-protank and MVP v2a few moments ago. OMGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG. I took three puffs and my nose started running. I was expecting only a minor difference despite what people have said. The flavor is almost double that of the original coils. I finally found vaping Nirvana.

I used organic cotton, Kanthal 32 gauge, 6 wraps and 1.4MM precision screwdriver. It came out to ~ 1.9 - 2.0 ohms.
 

earleyj85

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Feb 8, 2013
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I just started rebuilding my protank heads as well. Regular cotton works just fine. Got mine from the local drug store and it worked like a dream!

My first rebuild I tried following Riptrippers on youtube with SS Mesh. Did it 3 times and followed the directions to the letter. No joy.... Went with just 30 gauge Kanthal and cotton from a cotton ball. First try and HOLY COW what a difference! WAAAYYY better than the stock coil. I'll never go back to the stocks!
 
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Mark Anthony

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Oct 4, 2013
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I just built my first micro coil on my PT2 last night, used Tripper's video as a guide.

It listed as 1.6 on my provari and I used cotton. I loved the hits I was getting, but the new juice I put in there was awful. So I am going to build another one tonight just for practice with a known good juice.

I tried just replacing the cotton but the old juice seemed to come off the coil and into the new cotton, was strange but I sat there and watched it. So I am just going with a new coil for the new juice.

Did you dry burn your coil before adding new juice?
 

DasBluCig

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Hey everyone,
Just about to start building my own coils as well for a protank 2. Would you recommend 32 gauge or 30?
A 5/6 wrap of 32ga. on a 1/16" arbor should yield ~1.8 ohms.....
Using 30ga. on a 1/16" arbor, you'd need an 8/9 wrap....and it MIGHT not clear the sides of the chimney post, causing a short...
I HAVE been able to fit the 30ga. coil without it shorting.....but it's a REALLY close call....
I'd opt for using 32ga...I think it's actually closer - if not exactly - what Kanger uses in its stock coils (albeit, they use NR-R-NR wire)..
Good luck!
Happy (vaping) Trails!
 
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