Firing mod at lower ohms than rated

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Layzee Vaper

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no not incorrect. Maybe incomplete. Tell u what throw on multiply resulting amps by 1.2 to account
Incorrect or incomplete, the end result is the same. People may think they are drawing less current from the battery than they are if they don't account for the efficiency of the mod. The efficiency of the mod is just as important as the maximum output of the mod and the minimum battery voltage, as without it you can't make an informed decision on the minimum CDR of the battery that is required.
A good quality 25 or 30A cell in this mod would allow the OP to use the mod at its maximum and give some margin for error or a decline in battery performance as the cell ages.
 

NU_FTW

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Incorrect or incomplete, the end result is the same. People may think they are drawing less current from the battery than they are if they don't account for the efficiency of the mod. The efficiency of the mod is just as important as the maximum output of the mod and the minimum battery voltage, as without it you can't make an informed decision on the minimum CDR of the battery that is required.
A good quality 25 or 30A cell in this mod would allow the OP to use the mod at its maximum and give some margin for error or a decline in battery performance as the cell ages.
who vapes at max continuous discharge rate?? That's asking for trouble. Doesn't change anything I said. Oh but you left out mfg cdr not always being working/true cdr still wont change what I said
 
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Ryedan

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Hello,
I got a subox mini c, which is rated to fire down to 0.3 ohms. Today i bought the RTA for the joytech ultimo and some clapton wire. After I installed my first coil i realizied that it was only 0.15 ohm, but I still tried to fire it and it worked. I also did the Ohms Law math and the ampere wasn't even close to 20. (around 10)
So is it safe to fire a 0.3 ohm rated mod at lower ohms?

It firing that much lower than spec makes me wonder if there is something wrong with the mod. At some point the short protection should kick in and shut the mod down, and that also might not work. It should be the same circuit that does both.

I wouldn't vape it below spec. I would contact the shop I bought it from, explain what it's doing and that I was worried about the short protection, ask for a replacement and see what they say.

Vape safe :thumb:
 

Sludge Van Diesel

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I'm having a similar dilemma although with shop bought attys.

I've got an e-pipe that has been discontinued & I'm running out of attys. I've found some that on first appearance are the same shape & size, although my original attys are 2.4Ω & the new ones are 1.8Ω.

The batteries in both my pipe & the device these are intended for are identical (18350, 3.7V, 800mAh).

Would I experience any issues?

I'm asking as in the 8 years or so I've been vaping, I've always used parts from the original manufacturer that are intended for the model I'm using (with the exception of when I was using M401 models), so I don't really know much about swapping parts.

Sorry to hijack the thread, I did post this question elsewhere, but I'm unsure if I posted in the right place (ECF has changed considerably since my last regular visits).

Anyone?
 

Layzee Vaper

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@Sludge Van Diesel

I had a quick look on mooch's battery tests and he does not appear to have tested those cells.
I can't tell from the link you provided if the kit is regulated or not.

Unfortunately I don't think I can be of much help.

I would start a new topic and see if anyone has any experience with the mod, battery and atomiser combo you want to use.
 
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