First DIY coils built and working but a couple issues

[Aaron Charles]

Hey guys, thanks to the info on this site I've rebuilt my first few coils for my kanger aerotank. I'm no pro but have a decent amount of knowledge so far and my first two coils work. Couple questions tho.
First I'll tell you what I've got
Kamry x6 mod - on highest voltage setting ( blue led)
Kanger aerotank
28 ga kanthal
Organic cotton

The coils I built
6 wraps around 1/16th drill bit = 1.1 ohm
6 wraps around medium zip tie = 1.4 ohm

Problems

1- they taste funky with the same juice used on my factory coils, does organic cotton just taste different than the standard stuff?

2- the 1.1 ohm coil sometimes hits for a few seconds and sometimes hits the full 10 and then the light blinks blue. Is 1.1 under the limit for the kamry to vape on?

3 -the 1.4 coil (which hits great but still tastes different than normal) cannot be screwed on all the way to the base or the mod switches to blinking red light and won't fire... I had this same problem with a factory kanger 2 ohm coil I purchased a while back. So it's not a problem with the heads I don't think... What causes this? I don't want to leave it loose and risk liquid dripping out.



Overall, I'm stoked at how easy this is, and a buddy from work is hooking me up with an old mech mod and rda next week, but I still want to get my tank and kamry mod working well for fishing and driving when I can't drip constantly


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[tayone415]

For cotton, it does have a cotton taste in the beginning, but will eventually disappear. You can hide the taste in the beginning by using strong flavored e juice.

 

[HughDaHand]

Sometimes a cotton wick will have a funny taste for a little while, sometimes not. It could also be you put too much cotton in the coil, this will lead to a cotton taste as it will wick poorly. This is usually the problem when I get a funny taste from cotton. Also make sure you wash your hands before wicking the coil as oils from your hands will soak into the cotton.

I am not sure about the kamry x6 but most ego battery's like it won't fire a coil under ohms which might explain why your 1.1 coil is acting funny. It might be right next to the cutoff and shifting resistance slightly as it warms/cools. I would recommend staying at 1.5 or above with this style of battery.

As for having to leave it loose my guess is that one of the wires is sticking out of the insulator on the bottom a little. When you tighten it onto the battery the insulator gets squished a little making that wire touch the side of the 510 connection and causing a short. That is not uncommon with protank coils. Just pull out the center post of the head and trim that wire a little shorter and replace the pin, works for me every time.

 

[dice57]

Usually funky taste is from incorrect density of fiber through the coil, to much, and it chokes the flow, dry hits, to little, not enough juice can be supplied. Also, uneven coil loops can be a cause of hot spots, also creating dry hits.

Building comes down to consistent coils, and playing with the wick till it's all good. If you are tasting a cottony taste, then just preboil the fiber on a low boil, for like 1\2 hour, dry out, wick, should be good to go.

Welcome to the world of building, now you just need a proper platform to build on.


Vape long and Prosper.!!!

 

[Aaron Charles]

Awesome I'll try that, I did leave the leads a bit longer than I thought they should be cause my snips are well used and dull.

As far as the kamry, I couldn't find any specs on it's lowest ohm capabilities and it seems my 1.4 coil is now doing the same thing. However, when I throw my iclear 30s on there with a factory 2 ohm coil the thing works fine, so it's definitely not the mod. Wondering if y'all know the exact lowest ohm capability or if I have to just keep making coils to figure it out?

If I do, it seems like the more wire, regardless of coils = more resistance correct? Both my coils have 6 wraps but the 1.4 ohm uses more wire as it was wrapped around a larger object


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[Aaron Charles]

Btw I forgot to say thanks guys I appreciate the help!

And to add to what I said earlier it's random that the coils send the mod haywire


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[Flavored]

Hey guys, thanks to the info on this site I've rebuilt my first few coils for my kanger aerotank. I'm no pro but have a decent amount of knowledge so far and my first two coils work. Couple questions tho.
First I'll tell you what I've got
Kamry x6 mod - on highest voltage setting ( blue led)
Kanger aerotank
28 ga kanthal
Organic cotton

The coils I built
6 wraps around 1/16th drill bit = 1.1 ohm
6 wraps around medium zip tie = 1.4 ohm

Problems

1- they taste funky with the same juice used on my factory coils, does organic cotton just taste different than the standard stuff?

2- the 1.1 ohm coil sometimes hits for a few seconds and sometimes hits the full 10 and then the light blinks blue. Is 1.1 under the limit for the kamry to vape on?

3 -the 1.4 coil (which hits great but still tastes different than normal) cannot be screwed on all the way to the base or the mod switches to blinking red light and won't fire... I had this same problem with a factory kanger 2 ohm coil I purchased a while back. So it's not a problem with the heads I don't think... What causes this? I don't want to leave it loose and risk liquid dripping out.



Overall, I'm stoked at how easy this is, and a buddy from work is hooking me up with an old mech mod and rda next week, but I still want to get my tank and kamry mod working well for fishing and driving when I can't drip constantly


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Check the ends of the wires at the connection where you clipped them off. One hanging out can cause a short when you screw the topper on. I use flat faced toenail clippers for that part.

I could never get 28g wire to be right in a Kanger head, resistance too low unless you wrap it real big or real long, and then wicking it becomes problematic, since the hole through the coil is way larger than the entry hole in the head, keeping wick contact with the coil is tough. You might get hold of some 29 and 30 g to continue your experiment, those'll do pretty good on that 1/16" bit or one slightly larger, and the ohms will match your battery better. I use a 2mm mandrel for PT's, 10 or 11 wraps would match that 4.2V setting on your battery quite well with 29g wire.

Fun, ain't it? If you want to make some good contact coils, consider getting one of these: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/510520-coils-made-easy.html

 

[Alter]

IMO and experience I find the 28 kanthal too thick for protank heads. I like 30 gauge for protank heads, you can wrap nice 1 ohm coils and have a good vape. Most VV devices have a cutoff @ 1.2 ohm so as stated before your on the threshold of the cutoff point. Get yourself a nice mech with some 35 amp batts and then build low ohm coils. With the airflow adapter drilled out I can vape .6 ohm coils with my protank, but 1.0 ohm 5 wrap spaced coil with the 30 gauge makes a mighty fine cloud and you won't blow your face off by pushing any limits. I'd stick to 1.5 ohm or higher builds using a VV device.

 

[Aaron Charles]

I found 6 wraps around that medium zip tie gives me 1.4 ohms and once the leads were all trimmed up it hits flawlessly...

I'm not going to trash the 1.0 ohm coil as I'm getting that mech soon and can't wait to see how it hits on the tank

Next project- rebuild iclear 30s atty, that's gonna be interesting


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[Aaron Charles]

Nailed it- 10-11 wraps of 28g around a paper clip or 1/32 drill bit equivalent... Nice thin wick that slides freely and another piece the same size placed on top of the coil gives about a .7 nano coil that hits amazing, doesn't gurgle and is downright awesome ... All my dripper only buddies where thoroughly impressed

Only way to improve on it would be to drill out my aerotank holes for less restriction... But I haven't figured out how to disassemble the airflow control ywt


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[Aaron Charles]

Note this doesn't work on my kamry, only mech mods or vv's that can fire below 1 ohm


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