First Mech Help

[Sub Zero]

So, for some reason my mindset is that VV's are the only safe way to vape but apparently this Isn't true I'd hope ha. ( I think this due to VV module helping my battery not blow my face off.

From what I've read Mechs arnt too dangerous if take the right precations which I can only think of being a protected battery. (Any more feel free to post it)

Also, I would like some suggestions on a Mech probably from fasttech.com due to the fact that they are the cheapest.
Another suggestion on where to get a battery due to the fact that fasttech.com no longer ships.

Some questions:
I have heard its dangerous to "fully discharge" a battery what does this exactly mean? Using your Mech till it doesn't produce vape anymore?
What is the difference with a "magnetic switch"?
How long does a 18350 battery last normally?
What exactly is a "button top" battery?

 

[Dakota Jim]

for a mech I would get the Kamry K100 telescopic for the battery assortment you can use

you never want to go below 3.3 volts otherwise you may damage the battery (get a multi-meter, for volts and ohms)

a magnetic switch has 2 magnets pushing against each other to keep circuit open - usually smoother feel to them

as in vape time - that is subjective to each persons vaping habits, as to usable life - most batteries have a 250-300 full charge cycle life

button top batts look like your standard AA type batteries on the top ie: the pos end has a bump/"button" - flat top batteries are just that, flat on both ends

hope this helps

 

[InTheShade]

Good information above from DJ, I'll just add that you can increase your protection by either getting a 2 cent fuse (or short-stop) which sits between your battery and the mod, or a kick.
The kick will not only protect you from hard shorts, but stop over-discharging your battery and allow you to... wait for it... vary the voltage!

Anyway, as for over-discharging, you'll notice - or you should notice. Your battery will start out at about 4.2 volts. By the time you get down to about 3.5 or so, you'll be getting such weak hits, you'll know it's time. At first I was paranoid about this and kept metering my batteries every hour or so - now I can pretty much tell where my battery is just by the vape it is producing.

I know Jim hit on this too, but it is worth repeating - get and use a multimeter. Use it for checking your coils and your batteries. I check mine when they come off the charger and again when I about to charge them up. It helps you get to know your equipment and maybe catch something that is wrong before it can become an issue.

Finally, buy good quality branded batteries. I personally recommend AW IMR batteries (from rtdvaper). I recently had a battery event and I am convinced that by having these good quality batteries in my mod, I avoided a potentially catastrophic situation.

 

[Sub Zero]

Anyway, as for over-discharging, you'll notice - or you should notice. Your battery will start out at about 4.2 volts. By the time you get down to about 3.5 or so, you'll be getting such weak hits, you'll know it's time. At first I was paranoid about this and kept metering my batteries every hour or so - now I can pretty much tell where my battery is just by the vape it is producing.

DJ did provide some great info!

But what really scares me is the discharging lol. I do have a multimeter, and hmm the 2 cent seems pretty dam cheep and a kick not much more, my question is how do I know what will fit with what, due to the fact that I haven't really messed with the sizes of the tube's.

I have been trying to downside from my gigantic Vamo V3. I do feel as if I would use the multimeter every hour also to check it but I guess it is possible to get a feel for the hit. If the kick will help not over discharge that would be great, less worry. Is there any kick you suggest? Also if I get a kick with a 18350 how big must the tube be? Also size for the (2 cents)?

Also I would never skimp on something that would cost my life lol.

Also would I need a protected or unprotected battery for this kick or a Mod in general?

 

[*deleon517*]

k100 is my all day vape, I started out using it with a kick on a 18350 or 18490 battery. the kick will allow you to set a wattage that you like and use until it cuts off power supply when the battery charge gets low. Only downside of the kick for me is that it does drain the battery faster then straight battery no kick set ups, which is what i currently use. The only downside of not using a kick is you wont be getting anything over 4.1-4.2v's out of a fully charged battery. so if you do tend to use the vamo on the higher voltage/wattage side you may wanna use a kick.

the k100 is a telescopic mod so it can use 18350-18650 batteries. most mechanicals take a 18xxx series battery unless other wise stated. the k100 with just a 18650 battery no kick is the same height as the vamo with a 18350 battery setup.

 

[dice57]

Only use IMR or hybrid batteries on a mech. Personally I'd never use 18350's on a mech, would burn through them to fast and more importantly, they don't have a high enough amp limit to go sub ohm. A mech in 18490 mode is shorter than most regulated mods in 18350 mode.

One of the best clones to get is the Hcigar nemesis clone. It is kickable in all three battery sizes. If you are going to kick it would highly recommend the Evolv kick 2. The kick 2 allows builds from .5-3 ohm's and maxes out at 15 watts, has a better power management and grounding contacts than the original or kick clones.

The minimum amp limit of batteries I'd recommend is 10 amps but one would be better off with the 30 amp batteries, wider margin of error. The kick does require IMR batteries, so keep that in mind if you decide to kick it.

Make sure you have all the required support tools before going mech, and a thorough knowledge of your batteries and their limits. Over discharging a battery isn't dangerous, just ruins them and they can no longer hold a charge again. If using a kick, the kick will stop functioning at about 3.5-3.6 volts so over discharging is not a problem. Usually vaping straight mech one notices a dramatic vape change once battery is down to 3.6 volts, at least with my sub ohm builds it's very noticeable. Usually my battery is at 3.6 volts when I change it out, find the vape at 23 watts just sub par.

I strongly suggest that you study up some more before going mechanical, everything you need to know is in this forum, and just by the nature of your questions it is quite apparent that you are not ready for a mechanical mod. A mechanical depends on the user as the safety device. It is your knowledge of batteries, builds, ohm's law and maintenance that keeps you from harm.

Hate to say it, but the inherent dangers of mechanical mods is probably the strongest argument for regulation. And if not approached from a knowledgeable base, one can end up being a strong supporting evidence for regulation of the vape industry.

 

[itsmedave]

I've moved over to mechs the last month or so and agree on the HCigar Nemmy. I like it so much I have two of them. I only use 30a 18650's and most of the time my builds are around 1 ohm or so. I do have two drippers (Trident and Nimbus Clone) that are .4 and .7 which is nice with a mech and creates wonderful clouds.

 

[Scaralouche]

Mech mods are quite safe when you stick to stock cartos and the like. Probably goes without saying.

 

[meanckz]

I like the SMOK Magneto and Natural, both are very nice mechanical mods and inexpensive even state side (no month long or more waiting time)
both are telescoping too and can take a 18650 battery with kick.

 

[Vapour Eyes]

So because I'm from Noobsville, I got batteries and charger with the dreaded (is it?) 'fire' suffix for my first mod. The Ultrafire's drain awful fast and the charger seems to never get beyond the flashing red-'nearly charged' stage with (from the same company). Cease and desist or persevere until I can upgrade?
Apologies to the OP for jumping in unannounced.