First Mech ( Sorta )

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PLANofMAN

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...I was going to maybe get something authentic for the drip tip... haha.
It takes all kinds. In that case...

Modish Metal Works – localvape click on the drip tips tab at the top of the page and start going through all of the different manufacturers they carry. They have the best selection of amazing drip tips you've never heard of.
 

Yotdawglife

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It takes all kinds. In that case...

Modish Metal Works – localvape click on the drip tips tab at the top of the page and start going through all of the different manufacturers they carry. They have the best selection of amazing drip tips you've never heard of.

Just checked my statement on my card.... YESH I spend to much money on this hobby. I'm gonna maybe get the 5 pack vapelyfe ones. But before I place my FT order, I want a real serious cloud chasing atty.
 

Yotdawglife

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You will be safe down to .3ish, even lower if you have a copper mod, with a VTC5.

Copper mods do "hit harder" because copper conducts better than any other common mod material, and therefor there is less voltage drop from the battery to the atomizer, and more power from the battery is supplied.

An example would be, I cant build lower than 0.3ohms on my Smoktech magneto because it has brass pins and an SS body, which does not conduct as well as my copper nemesis with copper pins, which I can build down to about .15 ohms (not reccomended for beginners tho).

Please, can you explain a little more about this with the copper pins? How does that allow you to build lower, and safer? Better conductive metal = less resistance?
 

PLANofMAN

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Would would be the best cloud chasing atty I can get on FT?

CATS 1:1 clone.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1730600
To explain a bit further on the Cats:
The Cats RDA is the best RDA in the quad coil category. You could certainly wrap this with 2 coils, but the way the airflow works its really set up for quads. You’ll actually like this though – the design is easy to build on and the key here is the airflow.

The Cats RDA consists of a build deck with an inner and outer top-cap sleeve. There is an adjustable air flow ring at the top of the device. Air is pulled in and travels between the sleeves and is exposed to the coil chamber. This creates a bit of an “air-conditioning” effect. The first few times I did low sub-ohm builds (.2) on other RDA’s – the vape was way too hot for my taste. The reason why is the airflow. Warmer builds need more air. The Cats does this perfectly. I really can’t say enough about it. RJ Mods did a spectacular job on this and its simply stunning. And the design and build are so good – there is absolutely no leaking on this device.
 
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PLANofMAN

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Please, can you explain a little more about this with the copper pins? How does that allow you to build lower, and safer? Better conductive metal = less resistance?
That's it in a nutshell. The more resistance, the more voltage lost before reaching the atty. The more voltage lost, the higher the amperage draw on the battery.
People chasing the limits on stainless mods often run a length of copper tape down the inside of their mod. I don't know how well this would work on a Nemesis, as the threading and tolerances are really tight on that mod. For really low builds like you want, the brass or even the copper Nemesis might be a better choice.
 

PLANofMAN

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Gonna watch some videos on that CAT RDA.


Anywho, I am curious, to the mod I ordered, is there anyway to upgrade the pins on the clone mod? Will what it comes with be okay ? I want to build .2 .3 ohm coils on this device.
Fat Daddy Vapes SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware.
look for "Nemesis Ultimate Upgrade" about halfway down the page. You'll probably want to get that as it comes with the magnets as well.

Edit: what it comes with is probably fine, but it's worth buying the magnets, so you might as well get the pins too.
 

Yotdawglife

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That's it in a nutshell. The more resistance, the more voltage lost before reaching the atty. The more voltage lost, the higher the amperage draw on the battery.
People chasing the limits on stainless mods often run a length of copper tape down the inside of their mod. I don't know how well this would work on a Nemesis, as the threading and tolerances are really tight on that mod. For really low builds like you want, the brass or even the copper Nemesis might be a better choice.

Hm, what would be the safest / lowest build I can build on this stainless mod? Picture this, fully charged battery, and a voltage meter reading would equal the amount of voltage lost due to the conductivity of the pins or the metal? With the atty on of course. I think I may have jumped the gun a little to early and not ordered what I wanted with the stainless steel. I understand the body of the mod comes into play, but I really don't understand it. In my head only the pins would matter?
 
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PLANofMAN

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Hm, what would be the safest / lowest build I can build on this stainless mod? Picture this, fully charged battery, and a voltage meter reading would equal the amount of voltage lost due to the conductivity of the pins or the metal? With the atty on of course. I think I may have jumped the gun a little to early and not ordered what I wanted with the stainless steel. I understand the body of the mod comes into play, but I really don't understand it. In my head only the pins would matter?
I don't sub-ohm, so I wouldn't know what the lowest/safest build would be. .7 ohm is as low as I'm comfortable with, and 1.8-2.4 ohm is my comfort zone.

As for the rest of it, the pins are half of the circuit. You still have to have a loop, and that means a negative flow back to the battery. For that is where the body of the mod comes in. The body of the mod connects the switch and the 510 pin.

If you end up going with the Nemesis, you'll want to pick up the hybrid adapter. https://www.fasttech.com/products/1...nection-parts-for-kayfun-v3-1-rda-nemesis-mod

If you don't end up with the Nemesis, you should look at the brass GP PAPS. The clones impressed me enough to not only buy two more, it also made me decide to quit buying clone mods on FT and start saving up for authentic GP mods.

Edit: I didn't see you'd already listed that. Of the three I have, one has slightly loose 510 threading. That means the atty has a slight wobble to it until it hits the last few threads, then snugs up like normal. The other two are perfectly fine. Also, that was from the first batch. I understand FT has notified the supplier and orders shipping now should be fine.

A dab of locktite on the switch nut keeps the switch from getting loose over time. It's a real gem.
 
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MrPlink

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Anything can blow serious clouds with a few requirements.

Obviously a good build over all.
Decent chamber size.
And MAJOR airflow.

You could honestly buy a cheapy like an IGO W and bore out some massive holes on it and it will kill most other stock designs for clouds if you have the right build.

Most systems with adjustable airflow arent conducive to EASILY modifying your air inlets for cloud chasing purposes. Of course some of them out of the box do fine.

I should add that to me cloud chasing ='s getting the biggest clouds at all costs, Including flavor and practicality (and for some maniacs, even safety)


Legit, How far along are you in the process?

Just starting my first year this August
 

KenD

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Also, Not to sound paranoid, I am little concerned about lead content, or lead that is able to be leached into my skin via holding the mod/handling in these brass and, in all Chinese made devices.

Brass or copper in the mod will do you no harm. There's been some discussion about brass/copper in attys potentially being a risk. I myself am not too concerned.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
 
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