First Mechanical Mod Not Working

[AVPENOOB]

I was using an eGo twist for about 2 months now and thought I'd upgrade to a mechanical mod.
I went to my nearby vape store and bought a nemesis mod (seems to be clone).
I only bought the mod, 1 kamry icr 18650 battery, and a generic battery charger.
I took it home and tried connecting a boge standard resistance carto tank to it and it wouldn't fire.
I made the center posts touch the battery and everything.
Could it be a faulty charger or battery or mod?

thoughts?

 

[rx8man1987]

I was using an eGo twist for about 2 months now and thought I'd upgrade to a mechanical mod.
I went to my nearby vape store and bought a nemesis mod (seems to be clone).
I only bought the mod, 1 kamry icr 18650 battery, and a generic battery charger.
I took it home and tried connecting a boge standard resistance carto tank to it and it wouldn't fire.
I made the center posts touch the battery and everything.
Could it be a faulty charger or battery or mod?

thoughts?

Always try another battery or charger. Probably not the mod since it's all mechanical. Bring the battery back to the shop and they will test it for you I'm sure.

If that fails, then have them check the mod for worst case..

 

[umarbutt610]

May be test them using a multimeter?

Sent from Android

 

[jkais3r]

The nemesis has an adjustable firing pin. Have you tried adjusting it?

 

[AVPENOOB]

Always try another battery or charger. Probably not the mod since it's all mechanical. Bring the battery back to the shop and they will test it for you I'm sure.

If that fails, then have them check the mod for worst case..

i think its the battery because it wasn't a new battery to begin with. he took it out of a mod on display and sold it to me for cheap. it might also be the charger because even though it wasn't new, when i plugged it into the charger, the light is green.

May be test them using a multimeter?

Sent from Android

I don't have a multimeter, but i did buy a 2-in-1 ohm and voltage meter and its on its way. would that help?

 

[AVPENOOB]

The nemesis has an adjustable firing pin. Have you tried adjusting it?

yes i adjusted the top pin and the bottom pin so that the carto is screwed all the way in and the battery doesn't rattle when i shake the mod.

 

[dice57]

Umm, the center pin needs to be tightened to the atomizer, the switch housing is what takes up battery slop. Since you have a Nemesis, I would venture a guess that you didn't remove the kick ring and are not using a kick. Need to remove the small beauty ring which is usually screwed onto the top connector, it's the small section that is about 3/8" long. don't squeeze it tight or it will clamp down onto the threads. When mine is difficult I just grab it between the side wall to unscrew it.

Good luck and get a good IMR battery, something with a 20-30 amp capacity. Do the research on batteries for mechanicals, otherwise, it could hurt.

 

[UnclePsyko]

Umm, the center pin needs to be tightened to the atomizer, the switch housing is what takes up battery slop. Since you have a Nemesis, I would venture a guess that you didn't remove the kick ring and are not using a kick. Need to remove the small beauty ring which is usually screwed onto the top connector, it's the small section that is about 3/8" long. don't squeeze it tight or it will clamp down onto the threads. When mine is difficult I just grab it between the side wall to unscrew it.

Good luck and get a good IMR battery, something with a 20-30 amp capacity. Do the research on batteries for mechanicals, otherwise, it could hurt.

Excellent advice here^^^
Regulated, electronic mods have circuitry and CPU's where it's their job to continually monitor the battery/atomizer to protect you. In a mechanical, you are now responsible to protect you! The ohm meter (I'm assuming it's the box with the 510 connections) is necessary to test your atomizer but you need a Multi-Meter, the kind with the red and black wire leads and metal probes to test your battery before it gets charged, and after it comes off the charger to make sure it isn't under/over charged.
Get a quality charger as well such as the Nitecore and the recommended AW IMR batteries and research the batteries... very important!
You don't want an incident with your device and end up in the local papers! The media loves those stories!

 

[AVPENOOB]

Umm, the center pin needs to be tightened to the atomizer, the switch housing is what takes up battery slop. Since you have a Nemesis, I would venture a guess that you didn't remove the kick ring and are not using a kick. Need to remove the small beauty ring which is usually screwed onto the top connector, it's the small section that is about 3/8" long. don't squeeze it tight or it will clamp down onto the threads. When mine is difficult I just grab it between the side wall to unscrew it.

Good luck and get a good IMR battery, something with a 20-30 amp capacity. Do the research on batteries for mechanicals, otherwise, it could hurt.

I removed the kick ring and the beauty ring.
I will be ordering some Efest IMR 18650 30 amp batteries.

Excellent advice here^^^
Regulated, electronic mods have circuitry and CPU's where it's their job to continually monitor the battery/atomizer to protect you. In a mechanical, you are now responsible to protect you! The ohm meter (I'm assuming it's the box with the 510 connections) is necessary to test your atomizer but you need a Multi-Meter, the kind with the red and black wire leads and metal probes to test your battery before it gets charged, and after it comes off the charger to make sure it isn't under/over charged.
Get a quality charger as well such as the Nitecore and the recommended AW IMR batteries and research the batteries... very important!
You don't want an incident with your device and end up in the local papers! The media loves those stories!

the 2-in-1 ohm and voltage meter:
2-in-1 Ohm & Voltage Meter

 

[WileECoyote]

Fluke MultiMeter

Doesn't have to be this brand, but this is what they were referring to in order to measure your voltage, current, and power. You can also measure your resistance.

Just re read your product and it says it can measure the output of 510 threaded devices... Never used one of those.

 

[UnclePsyko]

the 2-in-1 ohm and voltage meter:
2-in-1 Ohm & Voltage Meter

That is what you need to test your atomizers, especially when you get into building/rebuilding coils... but to test your battery and check your mod for a short (and it does happen) you'll need one similar to this...
http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digital-multimeter-37772.html

No mechanical mod owner should be without one!

 

[AVPENOOB]

Fluke MultiMeter

Doesn't have to be this brand, but this is what the were referring to in order to measure your voltage, current, and power. You can also measure your resistance.

That is what you need to test your atomizers, especially when you get into building/rebuilding coils... but to test your battery and check your mod for a short (and it does happen) you'll need one of these...
http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digital-multimeter-37772.html

No mechanical mod owner should be without one!

dam, didnt want to spend extra money, but i guess i have to.
also, one more thing. i just tried charging my battery again and it was lit green for a while and then the light is now red.
before when i charged the battery, i only charged it for about 30 seconds to see what the light color was.
after leaving it in the charger for couple minutes, the light turned red. maybe the battery is dead and is now charging?

 

[Subdivisions]

Excellent advice here^^^
Regulated, electronic mods have circuitry and CPU's where it's their job to continually monitor the battery/atomizer to protect you. In a mechanical, you are now responsible to protect you! The ohm meter (I'm assuming it's the box with the 510 connections) is necessary to test your atomizer but you need a Multi-Meter, the kind with the red and black wire leads and metal probes to test your battery before it gets charged, and after it comes off the charger to make sure it isn't under/over charged.
Get a quality charger as well such as the Nitecore and the recommended AW IMR batteries and research the batteries... very important!
You don't want an incident with your device and end up in the local papers! The media loves those stories!

He did say that he was trying it with a carto tank so he should be ok, although I have no idea why you'd use a mech for a cartomizer

 

[AVPENOOB]

He did say that he was trying it with a carto tank so he should be ok, although I have no idea why you'd use a mech for a cartomizer

no, i was planning on using it on an IGO-T atomizer, but i bought it online and its on its way. i just wanted to test out the mod before it arrives and the only thing i have on me are cartomizers.

 

[Jawden]

He did say that he was trying it with a carto tank so he should be ok, although I have no idea why you'd use a mech for a cartomizer

i have no idea why anyone uses cartos. KIDDING!!!

but maybe longer battery life than an ego he started with. could be purely aesthetic.
to each his own.

 

[dripdaze]

dam, didnt want to spend extra money, but i guess i have to.
also, one more thing. i just tried charging my battery again and it was lit green for a while and then the light is now red.
before when i charged the battery, i only charged it for about 30 seconds to see what the light color was.
after leaving it in the charger for couple minutes, the light turned red. maybe the battery is dead and is now charging?

If you had a multimeter you would know. You wouldn't have to guess on the condition of the battery.

 

[UnclePsyko]

dam, didnt want to spend extra money, but i guess i have to.
also, one more thing. i just tried charging my battery again and it was lit green for a while and then the light is now red.
before when i charged the battery, i only charged it for about 30 seconds to see what the light color was.
after leaving it in the charger for couple minutes, the light turned red. maybe the battery is dead and is now charging?

Yeah, this hobby does drain the wallet, doesn't it? The Multimeter is cheaper than inadvertently causing a fire, or worse.

If the light is red, then I suppose it is charging, but not knowing what charger it is, it's really hard to give an accurate answer, sorry. You should play it safe and hold off on the mech (and I know how hard that is...) until you get the supplies you need to keep safe and just read up in the meantime. You won't regret it.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...eeper-understanding-mod-batteries-part-i.html

Baditude and AttyPops are the resident battery guru's. One of them should be along before long.

 

[Jawden]

dam, didnt want to spend extra money, but i guess i have to.
also, one more thing. i just tried charging my battery again and it was lit green for a while and then the light is now red.
before when i charged the battery, i only charged it for about 30 seconds to see what the light color was.
after leaving it in the charger for couple minutes, the light turned red. maybe the battery is dead and is now charging?

from what i understand the 2 in 1 ohm meter you purchased takes the place/serves the same purpose of a multimeter. could be wrong.

but dont even F... with used batteries or chargers. go back to the store and get your money back. any employee/store that sells me used batts for a device im gonna heat up and hold to my face is sketchy imo. hahaha. but thats me. i'd purchase some sony 2100mAh 30A batts (last longer than the efest batts you mentioned, with the same amp rating) and a nitecore intellicharger. theres some good deals around for both. i know the sony batts are a steal at triangle vape. thats where i got mine.

 

[Nikkita6]

I was using an eGo twist for about 2 months now and thought I'd upgrade to a mechanical mod.
I went to my nearby vape store and bought a nemesis mod (seems to be clone).
I only bought the mod, 1 kamry icr 18650 battery, and a generic battery charger.
I took it home and tried connecting a boge standard resistance carto tank to it and it wouldn't fire.
I made the center posts touch the battery and everything.
Could it be a faulty charger or battery or mod?

thoughts?

If you adjusted your contacts/firing pin, then it may be the battery ... I wouldn't use an ICR for a mechanical mod, as they are less stable than a IMR, which I recommend (IMR battery) that you get for use with your mech. Save the ICR for a regulated APV ....

 

[Jawden]

Yeah, this hobby does drain the wallet, doesn't it? The Multimeter is cheaper than inadvertently causing a fire, or worse.

If the light is red, then I suppose it is charging, but not knowing what charger it is, it's really hard to give an accurate answer, sorry. You should play it safe and hold off on the mech (and I know how hard that is...) until you get the supplies you need to keep safe and just read up in the meantime. You won't regret it.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...eeper-understanding-mod-batteries-part-i.html

Baditude and AttyPops are the resident battery guru's. One of them should be along before long.

touche, my friend.