First Time Building a DNA 25 and need some help

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drmarble

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Feb 8, 2014
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Flux isn't necessary but it is nice. It makes the solder wet the connection better. Most solder is flux cored or rosin cored. I use some old NoKoRode paste rosin flux. It claims to be good for telephone makers and dynamo builders. I think it belonged to my grandfather or maybe my great grandfather. My great grandfather build his own hydoelectric plant for his summer house in upstate NewYork. It provided electricity for about 200 people in the area.
I just wash it off with isopropyl alcohol when I'm done. Otherwise it leave a nasty coating. The new fangled fluxes don't have to be washed off.
 

rhelton

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I flux every time and I get a good joint every time. Rosin core flux works, it works really well when your in your groove and things are swell, but things dont normally go that way so I just flux and clean when I am done :oops:

I guessin your after TC so yah that is a good option with the dna2. If TC is not your main goal then check out the SX350 at Varitube. The 60w model is reasonable and they have two different enclosure options you can purchase from them to go with it. One is a complete kit in a hana style box but its made for the SX, and the other is more of a modders box in a cnc machined hammond. The reason I recommend this build over the dna is the ease of installation. The Yihi modders boards come with all the wiring pre-installed so it makes building that much easier. Here is one I did and the link to Varibube. Good luck

http://imgur.com/a/y1T7i
http://www.varitube.com/YiHi-SX350-DIY-Parts_c_23.html
 
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CadetOfVapour

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Aug 18, 2014
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Okay I got some rosin flux lol. I am after the TC feature of the DNA25 and I already ordered all of my components including the DNA 25, I was just wondering if there are any major do's and don'ts when working with the DNA over the SX 350? I built an SX a few months back and it went smoothly, but all the wires were pre-soldered to the board.
 

mogur

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Agree with jblack 100%. Most of the worry of soldering is exposing electronic components to too much heat. The whole idea is to pre-tin any wires, pre-tin any board pads, and heat-sink anything that is sensitive to heat damage. With a 30 watt soldering iron (or preferably a temp controlled soldering station), you have enough heat to quickly solder most board level connections. If you find that a connection will not solder within about 7 seconds, give it up, and try later. Let it cool down. Have a soda, and figure out how to make a solder joint in five seconds or less. Most good connections are made in about two seconds. The biggest problem you will likely find is an 18 gauge stranded wire to a huge solder plane on a circuit board. That will take 7 seconds, or you may need a much hotter iron. But even then, pre-solder the wire, and the board area. Good luck, my friend.
 
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