Flooding carto tank

[Sally_]

I rarely ever have an issue with my carto tanks, but I've had more problems in the last few days than I have since I started using them. I very rarely have a flooded carto but all I need to do is blow out the excess and get on with it. But the other night I started vaping my go to tank of diy cherry liquid, and immediately noticed the tell tale gurgle (no primer puff). I blew it out, vaped on it for a while then switched tanks.

When I went to start vaping on my carto tank agin, first puff gurgle. Blew it out, vape a couple good pulls... gurgle. Blow it out again, this time I heard the sucking sound it makes when liquid is pulled into the carto, but no bubbles out of the holes. I took off the drip tip, and the fill was soaked all the way to the top and I'd just blown it out. Again, blew it out, checked and it's still soaked despite the fact that plenty of liquid was blown into my paper towel.

I thought perhaps there was an issue with the seals somehow, maybe the liquid leaking from the tank when I thought I was blowing liquid from the carto. Nothing's changed. I actually started to post this, at this point but decided to try a fresh carto see if it was a fluke. I emptied the tank, primed a new carto with MFS plunger tool as usual. And for a while.. It was smooth sailing, but the same thing is happening. Flooding, blow it out, take off the drip tip and the polyfil is sopping wet. Not sure what to do.

3 hole single coil 2.5 smoketech carto, in a 25 mm Ibtanked. 60 pg / 40 vg diy cherry liquid.

 

[ImThatGuy]

Maybe the cartos are bad? Maybe you're not heating the liquid as fast as you're 'pulling'? Maybe 3 holes is 1 more than you really need?



(I'll come up with more questions for you to think about...)

 

[Sally_]

Been using 3 holes with no issue for about a year. The 'pulling' thing though.. I started using a Nautilus, and started having issues with a really tight draw on my carto tanks. Eventually realised the nautilus smashed the pin down. The pin on my mod is looking a little rough, so to avoid having to fiddle with it to fix it (and risk breaking it) so I try not to tighten them down as much. Could that be a possibility? It's the only other variable I can think of.

 

[ImThatGuy]

Maybe it created a higher voltage loss with load. Try increasing your voltage. You should be vaping at or around 4.5+ volts with a 2.5ohm coil.

 

[Dampmaskin]

I heard the sucking sound it makes when liquid is pulled into the carto, but no bubbles out of the holes.

Definitely sounds like a sealing problem to me. If liquid gets out of the tank and into the carto, then air has to get into the tank somehow. If the air doesn't bubble its way in, that means it must have another way.

Are the o-rings getting worn? Or maybe your new cartos are smaller in diameter, or have a rougher surface where the o-rings sit?

 

[Sally_]

I float between 8.3 - 9 sometimes closer to 10 watts depending on flavor or performance. Someone suggested using a 510/510 adapter or an airflow control adapter when I had the center pin issue. I ordered one so I can screw down my toppers securely without it mashing the center pin, so if that's the problem hopefully it will do the trick. Thanks for the suggestions ImThatGuy, I really appreciate it.

Definitely sounds like a sealing problem to me. If liquid gets out of the tank and into the carto, then air has to get into the tank somehow. If the air doesn't bubble its way in, that means it must have another way.

Are the o-rings getting worn? Or maybe your new cartos are smaller in diameter, or have a rougher surface where the o-rings sit?

I was having issues with the cap popping off too easily when swapping cartos, I never had that problem with my other ibtanks though I know it can happen. The first time it happened I suspected the orings, especially because there were no bubbles. I replaced the orings (inner and outer rings to be safe) but it flooded again after changing them. I started to post this thread then, but decided to try swapping the carto before posting to rule that out, but again still had the problem. Could it be the washers?

 

[440BB]

I'm betting on a damaged or worn out O ring too. Good luck getting things straightened out!

 

[Dampmaskin]

I don't know the IBTanked tanks specifically, but usually there's a seal between the glass and the end caps, and another seal between the end caps and the carto. Have you checked both? (All four?)

 

[ckquatt]

Also check the flat washers as well. I run ibtankeds exclusively and it sounds like a vacuum problem or loss of vacuum.

Make sure both sets of orings grab nice and tight, and make sure the rubber flat washers haven't become distorted. (When its put together, run your fingernail around the cap. If you feel some washer sticking out replace it. An easier way to know, is if it's hard to get the tank in or out of the "thingy".

If you have an assembled tank in the thingy and it won't come out or feels like it's suctioned in it. Its the washers.

I hope that wasn't to confusing. Its still early in the morning.

Sent from my Atari 2600 using Tapatalk

 

[r77r7r]

I think the tight draw could be adding to it or causing it. Just got thru a batch of tight draw cartos myself. Wasn't my PV. Went shopping for adapters and got A/F controller, ego to 510, 510 to 510. It was the lowly cheap 510-510 that fixed it, lol.

The AFC on a good PV won't add air, but in yours, might. 3 holes sure does sound like alot for your mix and being Smok's.

 

[Sally_]

Dampmaskin: Yes, I replaced the outer (cap to glass) and inner (cap to carto) orings on both caps. I didn't see anything wrong with the orings I took out. Rather swap them out to be safe than not.

Ckquatt: I checked my washers, by feel as you described and with the 'thingy'. I dont't feel the washer jutting out anywhere, and no problem getting it in or out of the thingy so I think they're okay. Thanks for the tip.

R77r7r: The tight draw thing was because when I use the nautilus it mashed down the center pin, and to get the carto tank to connect/fire I had to tighten it down quite a bit, which blocked the air holes on the carto.

I asked about hot to prevent the center pin issue. I got a couple suggestions, don't screw toppers tight, just snug enough to fire. This helped the draw but then the leaking started. The other was to get either a 510/510 or AFC. I decided to go with an AFC because it seemed like a sturdier base and to me a little aesthetically pleasing that's all

 

[ckquatt]

Dampmaskin: Yes, I replaced the outer (cap to glass) and inner (cap to carto) orings on both caps. I didn't see anything wrong with the orings I took out. Rather swap them out to be safe than not.

Ckquatt: I checked my washers, by feel as you described and with the 'thingy'. I dont't feel the washer jutting out anywhere, and no problem getting it in or out of the thingy so I think they're okay. Thanks for the tip.

R77r7r: The tight draw thing was because when I use the nautilus it mashed down the center pin, and to get the carto tank to connect/fire I had to tighten it down quite a bit, which blocked the air holes on the carto.

I asked about hot to prevent the center pin issue. I got a couple suggestions, don't screw toppers tight, just snug enough to fire. This helped the draw but then the leaking started. The other was to get either a 510/510 or AFC. I decided to go with an AFC because it seemed like a sturdier base and to me a little aesthetically pleasing that's all

Cartos have somewhat of an airy draw (to me). If you screwed it down that much to restrict the draw that's probably going to be your problem right there. Hopefully an AFC will fix your problem. When you blow the carto out, are you turning it upside down? When I have to blow one out (rarely) I turn it upside down, head tilted back and blow through the drip tip into a paper towel.

Just throwing more suggestions out as I think of them.