Yeah, we rolled the Tide. And the DucksA buckeye is a big nut. They can plug up dams and kill ducks
. Nasty little things and very versatile as weopons.
Congrats Roxy! Have to admit I am surprised. Just glad my Hokies prevented a perfect season.
Yeah, we rolled the Tide. And the DucksA buckeye is a big nut. They can plug up dams and kill ducks
. Nasty little things and very versatile as weopons.
Finally got my IN'AX Nano running. Received my 18350s in the mail this morning and figured I'd give it whirl.
This is not the easiest thing to build. It's not crazy hard, just challenging working on such a small scale. I *think* this build is around .5ohm. I used about 1.25" of 28ga Kanthal. My DMM doesn't show resolution to 0.xx. Meters at .7ohm and my lead resistance is .2ohm. 28ga has ~.43ohm resistance per inch so I should be somewhere between .5ohm and .6ohm. Wrapping the Kanthal tight around the tiny ceramic wick is difficult. My coil is not completely tight against the wick and I think that's producing some small hot spots. 30ga would probably be the way to go but I don't have any on hand. Threw down a bed of KGD, juiced everything up, and fired away.
This little thing makes a staggering amount of vapor for its size. Lungs hits are possible on the largest airflow settings. Flavor is very, very good... except for the hint of hot Kanthal due to the hotspots, lol. I'm not sure if the ceramic wick is imparting any taste or not. Probably won't figure that out until I can wrap a better coil. But, for a trial run, the Nano is impressive. I bought it mainly for the novelty value but I can genuinely see using this on the regular if I can put a solid build in it. I may order some ReadyXWick to try with it.
Build:
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A thought on the coil, if you wound the coil on something just a tad smaller then the ceramic first then twist it on in the opposite direction of the spiral that might give you a tight fit, might.....![]()
if you unscrew the pin, it could be pulled out of the socket where it is screwed. it would move on its own forever and wouldn't make contact. you'd not be able to screw it again, unless you take the top cap apart (and this way you could break the ground soldering attached to the top cap: aluminum + ss soldering, not easy to re-solder).I noticed the spring loaded 510 pin on my SX Mini is moving on its own. It seems the pressure from whatever topper I take on or off is causing it to move a little. I know it's not supposed to be adjustable so what should I do? My first thought was tighten it down but I'm scared to mess with it since I know some have ruined theirs when trying to adjust the 510. Any help is much appreciated.
if you unscrew the pin, it could be pulled out of the socket where it is screwed. it would move on its own forever and wouldn't make contact. you'd not be able to screw it again, unless you take the top cap apart (and this way you could break the ground soldering attached to the top cap: aluminum + ss soldering, not easy to re-solder).
if you screw the pin, the upper phenolic gasket (~1.5mm thick, relatively soft) which is just below the top of the pin (inserted in a channel) and above the spring, it could be stressed, and cracked; it could start getting out of the pin channel, surrounding the head of the pin, so it would push up the pin worse, and even could get broken and pulled out totally, together with the spring (this was my case). this might also occur if you force the screw with an atty with long 510 connection (better leave the gap, and insert a 22mm gasket between them if you can't stand for the gap).
if your pin is moving on its own, but it is screwed on its socket, the phenolic gaskets (bottom and top ones) could be a bit degraded. these are responsible of the wobbling pin. even they were in a good state, some wobbling is normal, because these gaskets are not very rigid. certain tolerance is normal, as it pretends to be self-adjustable (spring loaded).
i'd suggest to live with it, while the pin doesn't touch the walls. the 510 pin of the sxmini is weak, and it's very difficult to fix it, specially without taking the top cap apart.
better mess the minimum with it, and never force while screwing an atty.
I thought I saw mention in this thread about a fix for the Kato mod and the firing button always needing the screw to be tightened. Couldn't find anything though, guess my search foo is off today. So if there is a way to fix the Kato that means I won't have to tighten the screw into the firing button every hour, please pass it along.
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Well, my friend is interested in trying vaping. She liked Get Cookie, Virus and Band Camp. Had trouble teaching her inhalation technique, but I went through that learning curve as well.
We are looking at the Subtank with the 1.2 ohm coils and maybe the MVP 20W. Do you think 20W is enough for the Subtank? She liked the istick, but I told her the MVP is probably more accurate and has a better 510.
The doctor appointment did not go well. I need a slew of tests, a cardiologist and neurologist
But, I always enjoy spending time with my friend and her daughters.
RIP Origen Genesis![]()
I knew this was gonna happen eventually. The soft aluminum 510 threading broke off in my First top cap.
My fault too.I forgot how soft it was and grabbed it there with a towel and pliers to unscrew the tank. So yeah, don't do that!
Now I'm trying to decide whether or not I like it enough to buy a new one (kinda thinking not really). Ironic - the mod that I bought to go with it is arriving tomorrow!I liked it, but may go for the RDA version now, since it was a PITA to wick with that tank anyway.
Well, my friend is interested in trying vaping. She liked Get Cookie, Virus and Band Camp. Had trouble teaching her inhalation technique, but I went through that learning curve as well.
We are looking at the Subtank with the 1.2 ohm coils and maybe the MVP 20W. Do you think 20W is enough for the Subtank? She liked the istick, but I told her the MVP is probably more accurate and has a better 510.
The Kamry looks pretty nice! Much nicer than some of the other stuff they have in the pipeline.
I loved Nicotickets juice, but my problem was the steeping time it takes for it to mature, snickerdoodle was my favorite, but only after a 3 month steep, and took to much planning to make sure got juice to vape, got to expensive for me to keep buying bottles ahead all the time for it to steep. But also I am a vapor who can love a juice 1 week and then the next week it is just blah, so didn't like planning that far ahead, but can't take it away from NT, they do make awesome juice.
I noticed the spring loaded 510 pin on my SX Mini is moving on its own. It seems the pressure from whatever topper I take on or off is causing it to move a little. I know it's not supposed to be adjustable so what should I do? My first thought was tighten it down but I'm scared to mess with it since I know some have ruined theirs when trying to adjust the 510. Any help is much appreciated.
Finally got my IN'AX Nano running. Received my 18350s in the mail this morning and figured I'd give it whirl.
This is not the easiest thing to build. It's not crazy hard, just challenging working on such a small scale. I *think* this build is around .5ohm. I used about 1.25" of 28ga Kanthal. My DMM doesn't show resolution to 0.xx. Meters at .7ohm and my lead resistance is .2ohm. 28ga has ~.43ohm resistance per inch so I should be somewhere between .5ohm and .6ohm. Wrapping the Kanthal tight around the tiny ceramic wick is difficult. My coil is not completely tight against the wick and I think that's producing some small hot spots. 30ga would probably be the way to go but I don't have any on hand. Threw down a bed of KGD, juiced everything up, and fired away.
This little thing makes a staggering amount of vapor for its size. Lungs hits are possible on the largest airflow settings. Flavor is very, very good... except for the hint of hot Kanthal due to the hotspots, lol. I'm not sure if the ceramic wick is imparting any taste or not. Probably won't figure that out until I can wrap a better coil. But, for a trial run, the Nano is impressive. I bought it mainly for the novelty value but I can genuinely see using this on the regular if I can put a solid build in it. I may order some ReadyXWick to try with it.
Build:
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