Fuhattan won't hit hard

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BunkerVape

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Aug 19, 2015
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So I just bought an Americlone Fuhattan. The one with the Micky Mouse middle finger on the bottom. I'm still fairly new when it comes to vaping but I have done my research. My problem is I can't get my fuhattan to hit like I want. I put a 27 g. 8 wrap coil, 1/8 Dia coil on it. The problem is I'm right around .5 ohms and the Fuhattan just won't hit hard. I'm using the Sony 18650 VTC5 batteries and they are definitely fully charged. Building on a Mutation X clone. And it hits hard on my IPV3 just fine.

Any suggestions? Thanks all!
 

nyiddle

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... "Hits hard"? Ugh.

What voltage are you applying to the .5 ohm coil with the IPV3? You realize one is a mech (ie: voltage is fixed to whatever the battery's voltage is) and one is a variable voltage device? You're kind of comparing apples and oranges.

With mechs, you need to build your coils for the voltage of your battery, as it's either going to be 4.2V or less. With a regulated device, you can adjust the voltage, and subsequently, can put a huge range of coil resistances atop it.
 

edyle

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So I just bought an Americlone Fuhattan. The one with the Micky Mouse middle finger on the bottom. I'm still fairly new when it comes to vaping but I have done my research. My problem is I can't get my fuhattan to hit like I want. I put a 27 g. 8 wrap coil, 1/8 Dia coil on it. The problem is I'm right around .5 ohms and the Fuhattan just won't hit hard. I'm using the Sony 18650 VTC5 batteries and they are definitely fully charged. Building on a Mutation X clone. And it hits hard on my IPV3 just fine.

Any suggestions? Thanks all!

27 gauge 8 wrap 1/8 inch diameter kanthal single coil sounds more like a 2 ohm coil to me.
I think you'd need about 8 volts to power it.

Why do you think you have 0.5 ohms?
 
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retired1

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Before you build another single coil, go to the hardware store and get yourself a multi-tester so you can accurately check the resistance of your builds. That should be a first purchase before even contemplating the purchase of a rebuildable atomizer.
 

BunkerVape

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Aug 19, 2015
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It is quite possible that I am wrong on the ohms seeing as I am not home to double check numbers. I have an ohm reader, a multimeter and my IPV3 tells me the ohms. At this point I'm pretty sure it is my coil building that is the problem. So, I guess my next question is: what does my coil need to look like to get it to chuck clouds, or however you wanna say it?
I have 24, 26, 27 and 28 Guage wire. With an assortment of different sized drill bits to wrap on. I'm using VTC5 batteries, I think it's 4.6v and 2400mah. My preference is dual coil.

I appreciate the help and info. I read up a bunch on mech mods so I didn't blow my jaw off and have seen so many videos of people building on them and making huge clouds. Didn't think it would be this different from a box mod. I knew the ability to control wattage made a difference, but damn.

Thanks all!
 

Ou2mame

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I would make a 2.5mm coil using 26g, at 5 wraps or so that should give you 0.5. It'll be slightly different per atomizer.

The fuhattans actually have one of the lowest voltage drops from the unscientific comparisons I've seen so it definitely shouldn't be the mod unless there's somehow a short or something but since there's no moving parts besides the negative post itself I don't see how that's possible.
 

nyiddle

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I can't facepalm hard enough.

Okay. I'll try to explain this for you, but realistically you need to do a bunch of research on battery safety/ohm's law before you even think about picking up a mech mod (let alone rebuilding/firing coils for one).

Your Sony VTC5 battery is "rated" at 3.7V. This is sort of the "average nominal voltage" of your battery. At full charge, your battery will be outputting 4.2V (not accounting for voltage drop through the mod). As the battery is drained, that nominal voltage goes down, and less voltage is applied to your atomizer.

In a mech mod you need to understand what voltage your battery may be at, as you run the risk of over-draining and permanently damaging your battery if you go too far below 3.3V. Some people prefer to charge their batteries lower, but for the purpose of longevity and general safety, I like to not let my batteries drain much lower than 3.6V.

On a regulated mod, the chip in the device is outputting whatever voltage/wattage you tell the device to output (within the limits of the chip, obviously). Theoretically (and this depends on the resistance of your coils too), if you set your regulated mod to 4.2V, you will see the exact same performance that you would out of a mech mod with a freshly charged battery. The only difference, of course, being that the regulated mod will continually attain that voltage by stepping up/bucking down the battery's nominal voltage, whereas a mech mod will drop off from that initial 4.2V as the battery is drained.

Mech mods, about 2 years ago, were literally the only way to chuck clouds (or get any sort of formidable cloud, let alone a huge plume of vapor) as all the regulated devices on the market had extremely low amp limits. Sub-ohm used to only be possible on mech mods, since there were no regulated devices on the market capable of firing sub-ohm coils. Nowadays, there are regulated devices capable of outputting craaaaazy wattages/voltages. These triple-battery parallel boxes (while excessive, imo) are capable of pushing out as much as SIXTY AMPS. Just so you understand, 60A would be like 1800W to a .5 ohm coil. Needless to say, nuts.

My main point is this: You can simulate a mech mod on a regulated mod (by setting the output voltage to 4.2V) with your .5 ohm coil. You cannot simulate a regulated mod on a mech mod (as the mech mod's voltage = whatever the battery's voltage). For this reason, you've taken a step backwards in terms of convenience by going from a regulated mod to a mech mod. In regards to your specific build, a .5 ohm build may be PERFECT when applied the correct amount of wattage/voltage, but on a mech mod you're only able to apply whatever the battery is outputting, which in this case (I'm guessing) it's just not enough. You can try less wraps (meaning lower resistance) or a thinner wire. Ultimately, I strongly vote that you stick with the regulated devices for now.

And just some video evidence to prove you can indeed chuck clouds with a box mod, this is .5 ohms at 6V:


The same coil on a mech mod takes forever to heat up, and barely produces any vapor even after the ramp-up time.
 

BunkerVape

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Aug 19, 2015
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Well, I understand all of what you said and are saying and are continuing to say. I understand building on a box. I have been messing with that for the last three or four months and don't have a problem with that anymore. I've been onine looking for articles and such about building on mech mods but everything I find is not the depth of explanation I'm looking for it. So I have reluctantly turned to a forum, no offense ECF, for information and help.

As for the big box mods, I have seen videos and heard stories from friends and coworkers about some of them. It is amazing and more expensive that I ever want to spend. Fun to watch though.

And I can get clouds of my IPV3 that I absolutely love. I'm just trying to match or get close with my mech. So I have a starting and can build from there.
 

93gc40

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And I can get clouds of my IPV3 that I absolutely love. I'm just trying to match or get close with my mech. So I have a starting and can build from there.

I find I have to build HOTTER but not always lower to to get a mech to vape like Regulated mod. They work too differently to share builds.
 

andymclol

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Jul 16, 2015
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I can't facepalm hard enough.

Okay. I'll try to explain this for you, but realistically you need to do a bunch of research on battery safety/ohm's law before you even think about picking up a mech mod (let alone rebuilding/firing coils for one).

Your Sony VTC5 battery is "rated" at 3.7V. This is sort of the "average nominal voltage" of your battery. At full charge, your battery will be outputting 4.2V (not accounting for voltage drop through the mod). As the battery is drained, that nominal voltage goes down, and less voltage is applied to your atomizer.

In a mech mod you need to understand what voltage your battery may be at, as you run the risk of over-draining and permanently damaging your battery if you go too far below 3.3V. Some people prefer to charge their batteries lower, but for the purpose of longevity and general safety, I like to not let my batteries drain much lower than 3.6V.

On a regulated mod, the chip in the device is outputting whatever voltage/wattage you tell the device to output (within the limits of the chip, obviously). Theoretically (and this depends on the resistance of your coils too), if you set your regulated mod to 4.2V, you will see the exact same performance that you would out of a mech mod with a freshly charged battery. The only difference, of course, being that the regulated mod will continually attain that voltage by stepping up/bucking down the battery's nominal voltage, whereas a mech mod will drop off from that initial 4.2V as the battery is drained.

Mech mods, about 2 years ago, were literally the only way to chuck clouds (or get any sort of formidable cloud, let alone a huge plume of vapor) as all the regulated devices on the market had extremely low amp limits. Sub-ohm used to only be possible on mech mods, since there were no regulated devices on the market capable of firing sub-ohm coils. Nowadays, there are regulated devices capable of outputting craaaaazy wattages/voltages. These triple-battery parallel boxes (while excessive, imo) are capable of pushing out as much as SIXTY AMPS. Just so you understand, 60A would be like 1800W to a .5 ohm coil. Needless to say, nuts.

My main point is this: You can simulate a mech mod on a regulated mod (by setting the output voltage to 4.2V) with your .5 ohm coil. You cannot simulate a regulated mod on a mech mod (as the mech mod's voltage = whatever the battery's voltage). For this reason, you've taken a step backwards in terms of convenience by going from a regulated mod to a mech mod. In regards to your specific build, a .5 ohm build may be PERFECT when applied the correct amount of wattage/voltage, but on a mech mod you're only able to apply whatever the battery is outputting, which in this case (I'm guessing) it's just not enough. You can try less wraps (meaning lower resistance) or a thinner wire. Ultimately, I strongly vote that you stick with the regulated devices for now.

And just some video evidence to prove you can indeed chuck clouds with a box mod, this is .5 ohms at 6V:


The same coil on a mech mod takes forever to heat up, and barely produces any vapor even after the ramp-up time.


Nice
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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Port-of-Spain, Trinidad & Tobago
Well, I understand all of what you said and are saying and are continuing to say. I understand building on a box. I have been messing with that for the last three or four months and don't have a problem with that anymore. I've been onine looking for articles and such about building on mech mods but everything I find is not the depth of explanation I'm looking for it. So I have reluctantly turned to a forum, no offense ECF, for information and help.

As for the big box mods, I have seen videos and heard stories from friends and coworkers about some of them. It is amazing and more expensive that I ever want to spend. Fun to watch though.

And I can get clouds of my IPV3 that I absolutely love. I'm just trying to match or get close with my mech. So I have a starting and can build from there.

If you ipv3 has a voltage mode then use it in voltage mode and adjust your build until you get a build that works at 3.7 volts.

Once you have a build that works at 3.7 volts, you just put that on your mech.

a starting point is 1 ohm 28 gauge 2mm
about 7 wraps
 
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