Hey everybody! New to this forum and i'm hoping somebody can help me solve a problem i'm having. So i purchased a Peerless rda and it was on sale for $10 Canadian. Which is dirt cheap. Anyway i took it home and put it on my VandyVape Pulse BF and it just keeps spinning. I tried the 510 pin and i tried the squonk pin. Bear with me here because i'm pretty new to rda'S and vaping in general. So anyway the barrel spins but it will not spin the deck. I really don't know how else to describe it. I'm going to try to put the black piece in and see if that changes anything. But if anyone knows any other way please let me know! Thank You!
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Not sure what is spinning? Is it the threaded pin or the female insert 510 thread sleeve located within your VV Pulse? Whatever is spinning is likely broken. Suggest calling customer service for VV or Peerless and explain problem.
VV = (888) 558-0891
Geekvape Support– VapeNW
Peerless = (866) 877-4335.
Or post in: Vandy Vape
Thanks for the reply BrotherBob. It’ the 510 pin and the squonk pin on the peerless. My Profile tightens on to both my Aegis Solo and my BF PULSE. So ya I’m at a loss
Thank You for your reply BrotherBob. So i guess this is something that happens with alot of RDA'S. The outer sleeve will rotate but the deck has to be loosened and tightened by hand. I am having a hard time with coils. I think i put the cart before the horse. I have a Wotofo Profile and currently use the mesh. The flavor is amazing but i want to try everything i can and i have a Peerless RDA just sitting here and be damned if i can figure out how to properly get the prebuilt coils inserted correctly. I have a ohm meter but it won't read anything when i put the Peerless in it. I've watched youtube vid's and they seem to fast forward through a lot of that part lol. Anyway i think i'm going to take it to a vape shop and see if i can maybe get some knowledge. I admit i got ahead of myself, but the peerless was on sale for 10 bucks. And i can't pass up a sale. Even if i have no friggen clue how to build lol. Just another quick note. I live in Canada and it's cold as a witches tit here right now, so i take a Smok RPM 40 to work, easy to sneak out and get a few hauls in, well anyway packing up yesterday and i was crawling around the back of the work truck because it has a top on it and it must have fallen out of my pocket. Of course it a long weekend. .......n it! I really like that vape. I hope it's in the truck and not buried in snow. Seriously thinking on getting the RPM80. I am also looking at the Smok Fetch. Just don't know enough about it so i will be checking out some reviews this weekend. Have a great weekend BrotherBob. Andy anyone else who reads this long winded post.
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I don't have that particular product but I am looking at some reviews of it because I found it also on sale and thought maybe I'd like to pick it up. I don't believe that it has a notch that will stop the barrel from spinning. So when you tighten it you have to grab the base. When you're putting a coil in it you have to make sure that you're putting the two legs in separate parts so one of them needs to go in the positive the other needs to go in the negative. This one has a variety of places that you can put your legs so it could be confusing. The top holes appear to be for a very simple round wire type coil. One would go in each hole but they would share a hole with the leg from the other side if that makes sense. As far as the bottom ones go you would want to use the two middle holes like you did the ones on top for a medium sized basic Clapton something like that or have one leg on the far left and one on the inner and the opposite on the other side. Again I'm just watching reviews I don't have it in hand but are you making sure that one of your legs goes in one hole and the other goes on the other side so that there's one in the positive and one in the negative?
If your 510 is loose your ohms reader/ reg mod isn't going to read the resistance. Or it will jump around. So you have to make sure that tight. If your mod reads it but your ohms reader doesn't then it could be the ohms reader. I have a perfectly functional RDA that my ohms reader doesn't like it will not read it correctly but I can put it on 20 other mods and it's spot-on. LOL I don't know what's going on there but whatever it's fine on everything else
Hey thanks. I have figured it out. Apparently this is something that happens with a lot of RDA’s. So you just have to tighten the actual deck. A typical noob question from me lol
Hey it's great to ask questions forums like this are here for that very reason I'm glad that you figured it out
Thank you. Now only if i can get this Kylin v2 figured out..... I'm not trying to brag but i nailed the kylin m the first 3 tries. I think maybe mesh is more forgiving as long as the cotton is pressing against the full surface area of the mesh. But what do i know. I am a noob with the rda's and rta's. Also the squonks. I bought a VandyVape Pulse BF and i have the Wotofo Profile on top. Filling the squonk bottle makes such a mess by times though. I posed the question on redddit.com and received a lot of great advice. I am going to do the same here.Hey it's great to ask questions forums like this are here for that very reason I'm glad that you figured it out
Hello @Rowdy1212, some folks use a Squonk refill bottle that you screw into the Squonk 510 connector.
No ideas if it's less messy though.
No ideas if it's less messy though.
Not sure I can help you with the RDA/mod issue (try to learn the terms better... vape "lingo")
I can sure relate to snow... lived 12 years at 5000 ft in the mountains (actually got 10 feet of snow in one week... we called it "snowmaggedon") Now I'm back down in the city... not so bad recently but it does get well over 100 degrees in the summer... not looking forward to that. Can you post some pics to help us understand the parts that are giving you trouble?
@Rowdy1212 , glad you worked it out (BTW, I've never used a squonk setup so clueless) but sometimes even we learn from newbies... lots of helpful people here and nothing wrong with asking lots of questions.
Also, with RDAs and RTAs, ect it helps to lube some of the o-rings with e-juice after you first take them apart. My RDA gave me heck because I could not remove the outer "barrel" until I put a tiny bit of juice on the o-rings. I always mount my deck to the mod then put the barrel on last. Mostly I do RTAs. I have also had issues with tanks not making connection to one of my mods (the mod seems to have a deeper 510 connection that some tanks just don't reach)
Welcome to the crazy world of rebuildables (wicking is the real trick most times) So much satisfaction when you get it all right (but will drive you mad when they leak or have connection issues)
Also, with RDAs and RTAs, ect it helps to lube some of the o-rings with e-juice after you first take them apart. My RDA gave me heck because I could not remove the outer "barrel" until I put a tiny bit of juice on the o-rings. I always mount my deck to the mod then put the barrel on last. Mostly I do RTAs. I have also had issues with tanks not making connection to one of my mods (the mod seems to have a deeper 510 connection that some tanks just don't reach)
Welcome to the crazy world of rebuildables (wicking is the real trick most times) So much satisfaction when you get it all right (but will drive you mad when they leak or have connection issues)
Hey thanks for that. Ya i think i will have to add one to my next order. There are only a few shops where i live and none of them are carrying them right now. Although i guess it never hurts to ask...
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