Geneis Style RBAs

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Discord

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What a pain in the balls. Maybe it's the first one I chose to play with, the Chobra (what can I say? I'm cheap)

I started rebuilding coils on a ProTank... it took a few tries, but I eventually got it and at this point I'd say I'm damn good at it. I tried my hand with an assortment of RDAs, all of which I found to be super easy.

Then I got the Chobra. This has been a nightmare for me. I tried with SS rope first, but I need to get some more gas for my torch, because I get nothing but shorts on this, even after cooking it with a bic for a while. I tried with a cotton wick and it was ok, but I don't think Genesis style RBAs like those. I then tried with a SS mesh wick, and it worked all right, but the effort vs the performance left me quickly going back to my ProTank. I'll keep tinkering, because I don't like giving up, but so far I gotta say it's a lot of trouble for what I seem to be able to get out of it.
 

Thrasher

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A lot of the problems could be the clone, as they just slap them together. many of the better atty's are given a little more thought (wickhole size, distance from center post etc)

I never used the one you have as i use the real cobra and DID's. I will say the very first time was a lot of work for me and i didnt get it either, then almost instantly one day i rebuilt it mashing together several pieces of other peoples technique's and basically forcing myself to stick with it an about half a tank through i made a small adjustment to the wick and coil and pow, the change in flavor was overpowering.

there is a definite learning curve and there are many small variables that have to end up so close to just right, in the forums here many pieces pf the puzzle are sometimes skipped over or the fact that some of us can do this in our sleep now is over looked.

example of this is in another tread someone is complaining they are doing it just like in all the videos and following their examples and not understanding how its not the same. many people seem to overlook the fact that the people making these videos are probably well into a few 100 times and are pretty much able to know exactly what it takes to make it run in one shot.

as for the ss rope i think the trick is wrapping the top with some mesh, i dont use it so not sure.
the effort is worth it when you realize overoxidizing the mesh isnt needed, just twist the wick and use a lighter to burn the end that sits under the coil, maybe burn some juice on it to make it black. things like the drillbit method make perfect coils and then you slide the wick in and adjust the hotspots.

I have gotten to the point now i dont even oxidize the mesh anymore. i roll a perfect semihollow wick, make a coil using a drillbit. and slide the wick in, and slowly pulse it until the shorts are gone, fill and vape, takes maybe 15 minutes once every couple weeks.

part of the puzzle is using a well made atty and finding the method that works for you.

Many people are now moving back to silica, cotton and other soft wicks in genesis style and with some tweaking this is another option that works well also. easier to setup and great flavor so it can be done.
 
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floatingtrem

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Definitely need an SS mesh diaper on the rope, not only because it oxidizes better, but also because it holds more juice. The rope itself has a very low juice capacity.

I wrap the end of my rope in like an inch to inch and a half of lightly oxidized mesh, with the outside edge folded in. To wrap a coil with the rope, I take the wick out of the atty, and wrap directly onto the mesh. Make sure to use enough pressure so that all of your coils touch the wick, but not too tight. Your coil should slide up and down the wick a little, but not have any gaps between the coils and the wick. It takes a lot of practice to be able to wrap a good coil every time, but you'll get there. I find the pulse method invaluable in working out little hot spots. Just wiggle the hot spot and pulse until it goes away.

The next step in getting a genny working to your liking is figuring out what resistance works best for you, and possibly drilling out the air hole. I haven't been happy with the stock airhole on a genesis atty yet. Those suckers always need to be bigger, and it usually makes a radical difference in vapor production.

Every atty has it's own learning curve. Give it some time. I can setup my DID clone in my sleep, but I still am not happy with most of the my setups on the RSST.

Best of luck.
 

floatingtrem

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The DID clone is a tricky beast. It's major flaw is also it's major strong point.

What I think makes the DUD a great atty, is it's tiny air chamber, but because it's so small, there isn't enough room between the air hole and the wick. Because of this, reasonably sized air holes, don't supply enough air to the coil because the wick is just so damn close it blocks airflow. Also because of how close the airhole is, the air doesn't have room to spread out and hit the whole coil, it will just hit the small section of coil right next to the air hole.

My quick and easy solution was to just cut a slot shaped hole with a Dremel wheel. Ugly as hell, Works like a charm.
chichinbeer.jpg


If I were to do it again, I would probably either do a cleaner job with the cutting wheel, or just drill a second hole directly below the first one.

Also, I've started wrapping my coils closer together and attaching the positive leg between the bottom two thumbscrews, instead of spacing the coil out and attaching at the top. Seems to also help.

Good luck getting it running right. Hope this helps.
 

E_DeCastro

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i have the same one and I can set it up pretty quickly. I just used a drill bit the same size as the hole to wrap the wire. the wick a little loose. and fire it at 3w and I'll get little to no hotspots. the only bad thing is that I cracked the tank that's why I'll be replacing it with a aga t2. I also bought this to play around with. https://www.fasttech.com/products/1413900
 

Discord

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tinkering for a few days off and on and I have this somewhat usable. I had to make the air hole bigger. I also got a replacement glass tank that needed to be shortened juuuust slightly so the cap threaded to get the whole by the wick. finally got more gas for my torch so I can setup my SS wick fine. it's decent now, good vapor, good flavor, only occasional dry hits if I chain-vape (would love never to get any). I have to say, I get the same performance, maybe better from a ProTank (with a very carefully set up microcoil + cotton wick setup), and I don't have to tip it to encourage juice flow. But... I have spent a lot more time perfecting my protank setup. I'll play with this more and see if I can get it better.
 

Ronald3638

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How do you get flavor out of these DID Clones? Have had mine for a while & the vapor & flavor production is nearly nil. Just can't seem to get it to work. Any ideas.

I wish I knew too. My first build was awesome my second not so much and they are done exactly the same. I must say that even the second build gives more flavor than my best build with the RSST.

I'm thinking of asking our machinist to mill a block of stainless to reduce the size of the build area of the RSST to see is that helps with the flavor.

I better do it soon because our company is not going to fix the mill the next time it breaks down. Much cheaper to outsource to a local machine shop.
 

WattWick

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Effort vs performance...

See it as an investment. Might be an effort to get the hang of it. After that, setting up a gennie is quite effortless. You do have to fail a few times to figure out how not to do it and get a feel for just how snug-but-not-tight the coils needs to be.

Haven't tried a Chobra, so can't comment on how good results you can expect.
 

emus

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Cobra is my daily beater RBA. vape quality similar to my RDA. I use dual TP cotton wick and it works great. Easy build. Easy rewick. Can use loop of thread to start new wicks. Pull to refresh wick. OK for tiny cobra deck hole.
 

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WarHawk-AVG

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Genesis howto: [videos I found that work PERFECTLY for me]

A: prep the wire
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doFbHya4lew
I twist 32ga wire together, 6-7wraps for 1.8ohm coils (I use a kick or APV's at 8 watts) it helps eliminate hotspots especially between the wick and the center positive post

B: prep the wick
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsG199UrJnU

C: drillbit method
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hP5zzpA2RU

Check your resistance before firing, done...really it IS that easy

Enjoy the vape...genesis RBS's have some of the BEST flavor
 
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TrentTC

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All I can say is keep practicing and be patient. I know people promote using cotton but #500 mesh is my go to. It gives me a better, more satisfying vape. Never fill a genny with juice until you are absolutely positive you have no hotspots and your coil is glowing evenly when using stainless steel. Hot legs are a tension problem so play with the top leg until you get both to where they are not glowing. I like to kink the bottom leg of my coil sometimes if it won't quit glowing. You can pull the wick and top leg closer to the positive post to get this one to stop glowing. Once your coils are all glowing evenly and you don't have hot legs then fill with juice. Once you get it it'll become second nature to you. I've also found that people talk about torching a lot and doing juice burns to oxidize their coils. This is completely unnecessary. Torch both sides of the mesh quickly, roll, and then do a light torching again. You don't need a thick layer of oxidization and juice burns gunk up your wick and the residue it leaves seeps into your e liquid
 

Glenn_K

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TrentTC you're the second person I've heard mention putting a kink in the coil leg to prevent hotlegs, how exactly do you do this? Do you make the kink before attaching the coil to the posts?

-- Glenn

All I can say is keep practicing and be patient. I know people promote using cotton but #500 mesh is my go to. It gives me a better, more satisfying vape. Never fill a genny with juice until you are absolutely positive you have no hotspots and your coil is glowing evenly when using stainless steel. Hot legs are a tension problem so play with the top leg until you get both to where they are not glowing. I like to kink the bottom leg of my coil sometimes if it won't quit glowing. You can pull the wick and top leg closer to the positive post to get this one to stop glowing. Once your coils are all glowing evenly and you don't have hot legs then fill with juice. Once you get it it'll become second nature to you. I've also found that people talk about torching a lot and doing juice burns to oxidize their coils. This is completely unnecessary. Torch both sides of the mesh quickly, roll, and then do a light torching again. You don't need a thick layer of oxidization and juice burns gunk up your wick and the residue it leaves seeps into your e liquid
 

WarHawk-AVG

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drill bit method none of mine have gotten hotspots...well unless I run it hard and don't let the wick get more juice fast enuff (ever heard of the genny tilt [possibly because I didn't wrap my wick around a thin bar like a very thin nail or a 1/32 or smaller drillbit to make it like a metal straw rather than a full thickness mesh]) all my wicks are just rolled solid
 

Glenn_K

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I saw the Todd (ecigreviews) video on this method, and I definitely will try it once I get the right sized drill bit (The DrillBit Method - YouTube).

Wouldn't mind knowing about this kink thing, just in case....um, maybe I should rephrase that. :D

-- Glenn

drill bit method none of mine have gotten hotspots...well unless I run it hard and don't let the wick get more juice fast enuff (ever heard of the genny tilt [possibly because I didn't wrap my wick around a thin bar like a very thin nail or a 1/32 or smaller drillbit to make it like a metal straw rather than a full thickness mesh]) all my wicks are just rolled solid
 
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