Genesis Question

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Kanj.nguyen

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If your coil breaks between wick and pos post, you havent got rid of hot spots. The reason it breaks is because you have a top leg hot spot that melted your wire.

Now, why do hotspots occur?

Its because the wick is metal, so it does conduct electricity. This means that current will travel through your wire, meet the metal wick, and travel down the metal wick to get grounded, instead of grounding at the negative screw as it was meant to do.

To eliminate hot spots, you needyour wick to stop, or at least very weakly conduct electricity. Oxidization is for that purpose. Make sure you dont pull on the wire causing it to bite into the wick - this pressure increases the conductivity of this contact point and causes current to ground. On the mini DID clone (i use one too) try to capture the wire by screwing the nut that spins TOWARDS the wick. If you use the one that screws away from the wick, usually it pulls at the wire too hard and makes it bite into the wick.
 

Oktyabr

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First, a properly oxidized and coiled wick can stand straight up. Close to the center post is a bandaid that covers the real problem. So is a washer. Second, mini DID... clear or metal tank? If you use the metal tank and your wick isn't thoroughly oxidized then you REALLY want to have that wick standing straight up! Otherwise the wick can conduct electricity through it and into the tank wall, where it is likely touching if it's leaned over towards the positive post. The wick should also NOT touch the bottom of the tank for the same reason.

How tight? The wick should be able to turn inside the coil. I usually wrap my wicks off of the RBA. If I can easily slide the wick inside the coil but it's still snug enough to keep it from falling through when I hold it straight up and down I usually call that "good".

Last but not least I pulse my coils on my vamo all the time, unless they are under 1.3 ohms and then I pulse them on a mech. It just makes sense as it's got an impedance checking function just one button press away. Use VV mode, NOT VW mode, and start out at 3.0 volts and go up from there. Yes, any PWM device "pulses" the voltage on and off... at 30 or more times a second. In digital electronics that can make a difference... in a primitive heating coil? Not so much ;)
 
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