Getting into mods

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halisray

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Feb 9, 2014
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Montreal
Hi guys,

Been browsing this forum for a few months.. My current setup is an innokin vv v3/aerotank, as well as an ego-c twist as a backup.


I'm looking into getting into mods, building my own coils etc.. can someone point me in the right direction of a good mod to start with? Nothing too expensive but nothing too cheap either.

From Canada!

Thanks!
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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What about this for a mechanical mod? Great reviews. And not expensive for my first mod

$24.63 Nemesis Style Mechanical Mod - stainless steel / with telescopic 510 contact pin at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping


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If you want to get into rebuildables I think you should get experience with rebuildables first before getting a mechanical mod.
You don't need a mechanical mod in order to do rebuildables, and if your first builds have a short or wildly fluctuating ohms, better to have a mod with protection circuitry instead of a hot venting dead battery discharge
 

ImageX

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Dec 26, 2013
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What about this for a mechanical mod? Great reviews. And not expensive for my first mod

$24.63 Nemesis Style Mechanical Mod - stainless steel / with telescopic 510 contact pin at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping


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The Nemesis is a great mod. I have a couple of them and really like them. The Sentinel M16 and Private V2 are a great little clones from FT as well. They are all cheap enough to drop cash on. As suggested.... learn the very basics of coil building, ohms law, and battery safety before jumping in head first.
 

Completely Average

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Jan 21, 2014
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If you want to get into rebuildables I think you should get experience with rebuildables first before getting a mechanical mod.
You don't need a mechanical mod in order to do rebuildables, and if your first builds have a short or wildly fluctuating ohms, better to have a mod with protection circuitry instead of a hot venting dead battery discharge

A Kick fulfills any safety requirements for people starting out. It will regulate the wattage.

And if you're doing rebuildables without checking your coils on an ohm meter before using them then you have no business working with mech mods.


VV mods are highly overrated. At least in my experience they are. They let you fine tune wattage to a specific flavor if you want, but most people aren't adjusting theirs every time they change flavors. Instead, they find a setting they like and leave it there. For them, the exact same effect could be achieved by using a mech mod, a Kick, and finding the right coils. Calculate your wattage based on your voltage setting and coil resistance (Voltage X Voltage / Ohm = Wattage) look up one of the handy charts and find a coil that matches or comes as close as possible to your wattage at 3.7 volts.

And many rebuilables are designed for more watts than some VV mods can handle. You can easily do Kayfun builds that will exceed the 11 watt limitation of an MVP2 or eVic. Dual coil Kayfun builds exceeding the 15 watt limitation of an SVD or Provari are also easy and common.
 
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Benzin

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Mar 12, 2012
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If you want to get into rebuildables I think you should get experience with rebuildables first before getting a mechanical mod.
You don't need a mechanical mod in order to do rebuildables, and if your first builds have a short or wildly fluctuating ohms, better to have a mod with protection circuitry instead of a hot venting dead battery discharge
I completely agree with this! safety first!
 

Completely Average

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Jan 21, 2014
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mech mods scare me


Why? It's a glorified flashlight (Quite literally, if you could find a 510 threaded lightbulb it would work). Using off the shelf tanks and coils they work exactly the same as an Ego. In fact an Ego basically is a mech mod with the addition of an LED in the fire button.

They are only dangerous when you get into RBAs and drawing huge wattage from the battery. But if you're getting into RBAs then your common safety practices when building RBAs should be the same regardless of the device. Know the wattage demand of your build, know the safe limits of your battery, and test the build for flaws. You do the same for a mech mod of VV mod.

Remember, the easy thing about a mech mod is predictable voltage, especially with a Kick installed. With a kick it's guaranteed 3.7 volts. Wattage is controlled by your coil. Keep the kick on until you're comfortable enough to remove it (The Kick has wattage limits as well) and then have fun with monster cloud builds.
 
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Fluke!

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Feb 12, 2014
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i had a few issues in the past where there was a short in the atomizer which cause my battery to vent, it was not a good experience got soo hot i struggled soo hard to take the battery out before it got hotter mean while it was burning my hands but now i got a ohms reader and multimeter and try to be as safe as possible dont really want a battery to catch fire/blow up which probably wouldnt happen but sure seemed like it was going to.
 

David Rogers

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Feb 12, 2014
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EnderEOC

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Jan 18, 2014
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my first mod was a SVD and didn't regret it. I'd say go with SVD or a Vamo. As for the RBA, i started with a fogger but apparently it's not the easiest to rebuild. An igo-L/W is easier to rebuild but those are drippers...
A kayfun seems good, i never used one myself but looks easy to rebuild.
You could use it with your VV until you get better with coils and stuff.
 
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dice57

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The Beast Box VV, is a major hitter regulated power mod, with two 26500 batteries with a total of 60000 mah of stored energy. With my current builds can run at about 20 watts for a full day of vaping. This mod is nothing pretty, no bells or whistles, just a dial, fire button, and an led light, the you can choose not to have installed. It's just dial in by taste and forget about it. lmao. But talk about staying power, consistent vape, will accept builds from .5-3 ohms. Gives a really great vape and great power. If using a carto or changeable atomizer, and vaping at normal level, or is that nominal?, any who, a charge would probably last days.

Miste-E-Liquid has amazing customer service, ordered a different charger than the one packaged with it, but the button top batteries wouldn't make contact with the positive terminal without using a spacer to extend the contact area. Dave sent me an upgraded model for a free exchange to ensure my safety and satisfaction. He even sent it to me before I returned the one I bought. That's going the extra mile for a customer.
 
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