Good Day! New User looking for advice and help!

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Hello all, first off I want to say I'm a bit overwhelmed by this forum. It is truly massive and so much information available. That said, I'm still a relative 'noob' to vaping and really only have learned what my local shop has shown/sold me, lol.

I started vaping on a 510 a few years ago, but gave up vaping due to little satisfaction from that device. Last year I bought an eGO-C 1000 battery and a mini pro tank2 and was much happier with the results. I then bought an Itaste VV 2.0 and was even happier. Sadly the VV broke (joints got loose and had to tightly press the tank to battery to get it to get power) so went back to EGO c battery.

Now I'm really looking to enter a 'new-world' that I see so many on here experience. I purchased a Aspire Nautilus Mini and was very disappointed recently when i realized it needs pliers to remove the tank and to change atomizers :(

I was recommended to move up to an MVP 2.0 or 3.0 by a coworker but I'd like to solicit some help here. Is this a good change for what I have now?

Also, what would be a good recommendation for a new tank? I really want a great vaping experience (good hit and good vapour) and Im getting 'serviceable' from my protank 2.

If anyone can spare a minute to read this and lend a hand it would be much appreciated.

Thanks Kindly!
 

Susan~S

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Hello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!:)

I purchased a Aspire Nautilus Mini and was very disappointed recently when i realized it needs pliers to remove the tank and to change atomizers :(

You are screwing them together WAY TO TIGHT if you need pliers to take them apart. If you put a little e-liquid on the gasket before you screw the tank onto the base it will all come apart without the need for pliers. And the coil only needs to be snug in the base. Give it a try.:)

I'm a one-handed vaper (zero finger dexterity/strength in one hand) and even I don't need pliers to deal with my Nautilus.
 
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catsitter

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Wow, you shouldn't need pliers to remove a mini Nautilus. If you're having problems getting the base loose from the glass tank, you're probably vaping the contents down too far - these things work on vacuum/suction and if you vape out too much of the content, the vacuum's hard to break. Try unscrewing it a little sooner and see if it's easier. If you're having problems separating the tank from the battery, make sure you're not screwing it down too hard (it should be just finger tight) or cross-threading it. I use the mini Nautilus a lot and the only time I needed pliers was when I didn't stop soon enough and had a problem with the vacuum.

I don't know the MVPs, so I can't really comment on them. I agree with you on the Kanger Protanks, they're serviceable but not great. I'm hearing very good things about their Subtank, however. Good luck with it!
 

LittleBird

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Joyous, welcome to ECF! You are right: there's a ton of information, here, and lots of very helpful people! I'm smiling at your post because I did the exact same thing! I had screwed the thing down way too tightly, and ended up breaking it, trying to get it apart. Lesson learned :)

The Nauti mini is a nice tank, with a BVC coil. But I love, love the Kanger Subtank mini. The stock OCC (organic cotton coils) are available in 1.2 and .5 ohms, and the tank can be rebuilt, if you are inclined towards building. Great flavor and great vapor production. The one thing is that these coils want higher wattage - somewhere between 14 and 25+ watts. So if you go that route, you will want a mod that can handle up to 30 watts. Best of luck to you, and happy vaping!
 

edyle

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Hello all, first off I want to say I'm a bit overwhelmed by this forum. It is truly massive and so much information available. That said, I'm still a relative 'noob' to vaping and really only have learned what my local shop has shown/sold me, lol.

I started vaping on a 510 a few years ago, but gave up vaping due to little satisfaction from that device. Last year I bought an eGO-C 1000 battery and a mini pro tank2 and was much happier with the results. I then bought an Itaste VV 2.0 and was even happier. Sadly the VV broke (joints got loose and had to tightly press the tank to battery to get it to get power) so went back to EGO c battery.

Now I'm really looking to enter a 'new-world' that I see so many on here experience. I purchased a Aspire Nautilus Mini and was very disappointed recently when i realized it needs pliers to remove the tank and to change atomizers :(

I was recommended to move up to an MVP 2.0 or 3.0 by a coworker but I'd like to solicit some help here. Is this a good change for what I have now?

Also, what would be a good recommendation for a new tank? I really want a great vaping experience (good hit and good vapour) and Im getting 'serviceable' from my protank 2.

If anyone can spare a minute to read this and lend a hand it would be much appreciated.

Thanks Kindly!

MVP3 or an istick30/50

If you stick with miniprotanks, the mvp2 would be enough;
For the Nautilus, you'd need more power like the mvp3 or istick.
Or you could go straight to the replaceable battery mod stage: vamo, zmax, elvt2

I recommend you pick yourself up an rda; an rda is simple, cheap, the extreme of serviceable; virtually indestructible.
 
You are screwing them together WAY TO TIGHT if you need pliers to take them apart. If you put a little e-liquid on the gasket before you screw the tank onto the base it will all come apart without the need for pliers. And the coil only needs to be snug in the base. Give it a try.

I'm a one-handed vaper (zero finger dexterity/strength in one hand) and even I don't need pliers to deal with my Nautilus.

Thanks Susan I will definitely try that.

Wow, you shouldn't need pliers to remove a mini Nautilus. If you're having problems getting the base loose from the glass tank, you're probably vaping the contents down too far - these things work on vacuum/suction and if you vape out too much of the content, the vacuum's hard to break. Try unscrewing it a little sooner and see if it's easier. If you're having problems separating the tank from the battery, make sure you're not screwing it down too hard (it should be just finger tight) or cross-threading it. I use the mini Nautilus a lot and the only time I needed pliers was when I didn't stop soon enough and had a problem with the vacuum.

Also, good advice, thank you catsitter, I really appreciate it. I had no idea that they worked that way, and I'm notorious for vaping to dry :S

The Nauti mini is a nice tank, with a BVC coil. But I love, love the Kanger Subtank mini. The stock OCC (organic cotton coils) are available in 1.2 and .5 ohms, and the tank can be rebuilt, if you are inclined towards building. Great flavor and great vapor production. The one thing is that these coils want higher wattage - somewhere between 14 and 25+ watts. So if you go that route, you will want a mod that can handle up to 30 watts. Best of luck to you, and happy vaping!

I'm sure that started in English but went to a different language in the middle, lol. Thank you Littlebird, you have given me some good starting points on where to research for new things. I don't yet know what BVC coils are, subtanks, organic cotton coils, rebuilding tanks and wattage importance. But I now know what I need to learn, lol. Thanks for the info, I will do my best to put it to good use.

There is a massive difference in flexibility between the MVP v.2 and the new 30w model.

For many people, the MVP v.2 was too under-powered once you are using the latest tanks.

Excellent, that cements the decision to pay the extra for the MVP 3.0 for me. Thanks djsvapour!


Anyone know how to quote multiple people in the same message and add their names to the quote? I think its something like [ /QUOTE= 'username' or something...]

Cheers!
 
MVP3 or an istick30/50

If you stick with miniprotanks, the mvp2 would be enough;
For the Nautilus, you'd need more power like the mvp3 or istick.
Or you could go straight to the replaceable battery mod stage: vamo, zmax, elvt2

I recommend you pick yourself up an rda; an rda is simple, cheap, the extreme of serviceable; virtually indestructible.

Thank you very much, do you know by chance if this site has a listing of acronyms? Being relatively new I'm not sure what you mean by an RDA or vamo, zmax or elvt2.
 

edyle

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Thanks Susan I will definitely try that.



Also, good advice, thank you catsitter, I really appreciate it. I had no idea that they worked that way, and I'm notorious for vaping to dry :S



I'm sure that started in English but went to a different language in the middle, lol. Thank you Littlebird, you have given me some good starting points on where to research for new things. I don't yet know what BVC coils are, subtanks, organic cotton coils, rebuilding tanks and wattage importance. But I now know what I need to learn, lol. Thanks for the info, I will do my best to put it to good use.



Excellent, that cements the decision to pay the extra for the MVP 3.0 for me. Thanks djsvapour!


Anyone know how to quote multiple people in the same message and add their names to the quote? I think its something like [ /QUOTE= 'username' or something...]

Cheers!

you use the little button to the right of "Reply with Quote", to tag each of the posts that you want to quote.
 

edyle

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Welcome to ECF JO, make yourself right at home :)
Here you go :)
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...lossary-copied-original-source-smokeyjoe.html
That should get you started ;)


Thank you very much, do you know by chance if this site has a listing of acronyms? Being relatively new I'm not sure what you mean by an RDA or vamo, zmax or elvt2.

you use the little button to the right of "Reply with Quote", to tag each of the posts that you want to quote.


^^^^^that's just an example.

after you tag a couple of posts you want to include, you click Reply with quote on the message you are replying too and the other quotes get added in
 

Snooze00

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Mar 9, 2015
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My advice is to ignore any recomendations that steer towards these new sub ohm tanks. They serve no functonal purpose for a regular ecig vaper imo. What they never tell you is that you will need to cut your nic level dramatically. Nor will they tell you that it is advisable to have mainly VG in the ratio. Nor will they warn you about the amount of liquid you will be ingesting in order to obtain that big flavor Or the recomended healthy wattage range not to mention the heat blasting into your throat and tge insane splash from the popping. I was a silly noob who bought one and almost passed out on the first vape. Seriously dangerous. Not to say you cant use them but omg you need to be prepared.
 

edyle

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Sir2fyablyNutz

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Welcome to the forum Joyous. I keep a rubber band to use to take my Nautilus Mini off. Just lay it on the turning part and it grips like one of those kitchen rubber things for jars. Haven't had one problem with this method. I have an iStick 50W as my battery, can't go wrong with it (in my opinion).
 

edyle

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Thank you to everyone! You've all been a huge help. I have research to do for my next battery now, but one last question.

How long should a 1.8ohm atomizer last for my Protank2? I find I don't get more than 3-4 days of 'quality' vaping before i should change coils.

I used to change my protank coils after about 3 days.

dryburn and rewick the old coil.
 
I used to change my protank coils after about 3 days.

dryburn and rewick the old coil.

This is something I have heard a lot. Is it difficult to rewick my coils? I try to clean them with a sonic cleaner and a toothbrush but they never work that well or for long.

I'm so sorry about all the questions but a lot of this is very new to me.

Thanks kindly.
 
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