New vaper looking for advice

[gyrex]

Spot on. There are no mechanical mods in that photo.

Those 4 batteries (mods) are all variable volt/watt devices.

The Vamo is indeed a large e-cig.. LOL

The most powerful is the blue istick 30w. To give you and idea of the width... here's a picture with a side view. Both of these are the 20w version, for those with a keen eye.

Thanks for the pic and the info - I still think I'm keen on the "cigar" type e-cigs though... I think it's best to buy something online but I'd much prefer to see them and hold them in person rather than just seeing photos. I'll try and find a good dealer near me and see what they stock

 

[YoursTruli]

Kanger has some great starter kits ego battery/evod cartomizer that work really well I love them personally and
you can google to find them

Kanger EVOD Mega Kit 1900mah - Kanger Kits - Starter Kits

is one supplier

 

[djsvapour]

Thanks for the pic and the info - I still think I'm keen on the "cigar" type e-cigs though... I think it's best to buy something online but I'd much prefer to see them and hold them in person rather than just seeing photos. I'll try and find a good dealer near me and see what they stock

Where are you? Did you mention Oz?

Baby steps is good, by the way. If you got a nice new eGo battery and a tank or two, you can still use the tanks on most 'mod' e-cigs anyway. It's a well-trodden path, often described as the vaping ladder.

I like the iSticks as size, power and battery life is immense. 2,200mAh lasts a long time for me, as I don't whack up the power, although I need more power than an eGo battery, for sure.

 

[suprtrkr]

For starters, go with the iStick 30 or an iTaste MVP 3.0, and an Aspire Nautilus tank (either size.)

 

[chuckinclouds88]

OK, so the ego-t is a mechanical apv and the provape is a regulated apv?

The eGo-T is not a mechanical. It's honestly just a PV. It's not an ADVANCED personal vaporizer. The Provape is a regulated APV. Essentially, a mechanical mod will be a tube that you place an external battery inside and pushing the "fire" button (typically located on bottom) will complete the circuit and allow the atomizer to receive power/fire.

 

[gyrex]

Where are you? Did you mention Oz?

Baby steps is good, by the way. If you got a nice new eGo battery and a tank or two, you can still use the tanks on most 'mod' e-cigs anyway. It's a well-trodden path, often described as the vaping ladder.

I like the iSticks as size, power and battery life is immense. 2,200mAh lasts a long time for me, as I don't whack up the power, although I need more power than an eGo battery, for sure.

Once again, thank you djs (and all the others in this thread) for all your help - vaping is proving to be quite an exciting but somewhat complex activity but you're all helping me understand it a little better which is great

I am from oz but have recently moved (temporarily I think) to Warsaw, Poland with my girlfriend so trying to find a dealer may be quite the challenge again. I've posted a question in the polish forum but they don't seem to be too active - I think they've got their own polish e-cig forums so I'll try posting in there for dealer recommendations.

Can I ask why you need more power than an eGo battery? Is it that you need more usage time or more power? The eGo battery seems pretty good to me but again I'm a new user

 

[suprtrkr]

Once again, thank you djs (and all the others in this thread) for all your help - vaping is proving to be quite an exciting but somewhat complex activity but you're all helping me understand it a little better which is great

I am from oz but have recently moved (temporarily I think) to Warsaw, Poland with my girlfriend so trying to find a dealer may be quite the challenge again. I've posted a question in the polish forum but they don't seem to be too active - I think they've got their own polish e-cig forums so I'll try posting in there for dealer recommendations.

Can I ask why you need more power than an eGo battery? Is it that you need more usage time or more power? The eGo battery seems pretty good to me but again I'm a new user

Nothing wrong withnan eGo, provided it's eGo branded. But most of us started there and retired it or gave it away in the first month, looking for more power and better and bigger tanks. It won't hurt you to start there, not at all. You might even stay that low powered. But if you go with the iStick 30 and the Nautilus tank, you've got more room to grow.

 

[Sarah B]

Hi guys!

I quit smoking analog cigs because my gf was sick and tired of the smell and wanted me to improve my health and to be honest I hated the smell and I wanted to improve my health as well. Anyway, took to vaping a few weeks ago and I couldn't be happier! Haven't felt like an analog since and I love the fact that I can vape almost anywhere!

I started on an analog look alike (Jai brand I bought in Rome) which stopped charging after a week then I bought an ego-t (I think it's a fake though) and I'm loving it! I'll never go back to analog smoking again

Anyway I'd like to purchase either an original/authentic Joyetech ego-t or another brand/model which is recommended by you guys... Can you guys make some recommendations? Also, what's the difference between an ego-t and an ego-c?

Cheers and thanks for any advice!

Hi,
I am fairly new to vaping as I quit smoking 3 months ago
I needed a vape that could last longer than my vision spinner 2, so I bought the iPV3 Li for all of the advertised features which I don't understand half of
Let me tell you that I am very happy with my iPV3 Li cause I don't have to charge it that often and I can adjust the power to give me big vapor.
I bought it on a steal deal from an online store called csvape.com that my friends and I follow on Instagram for their cool posts and they always have good deals on juices!
I recommend that you check these guys out, you might find what you are looking for.

Thanks

 

[djsvapour]

Two things (comments) spring to mind.

Being in Poland could be good news. There are some tough laws in Australia and as well as nicotine liquid being a bit of a 'grey area' (legally speaking) there are companies price-gouging Australian vapers. Some Aussies are paying crazy money for hardware when there really is no need. There is an Aussie Vapers forum (I am on there, under a pseudonym, as a famous US/UK brand is trying to make millions ripping off Australians).

More power is kind of easy to explain, but people have different attitudes to power (no rights or wrongs).
For me, once I got used to Vaping and quit cigarettes, I wanted to get more vapour and more flavour. I was using quite strong liquid on the basic systems (24mg in cig-a-likes, then 18mg in eGo batteries). An eGo battery will usually vape at a certain power (let's say 7 or 8 watts) which is getting on for double the power of a plastic/placebo cig-a-like stick. (3-4 watts).

3-4 watts of power is proven to produce very low nicotine (yes, I know, people will disagree) so 8 watts is twice the vapour, twice the nicotine. BUT... 8 watts isn't really much 'smoke/vapour'... not once you are used to it. Vapour is mildly irritating, but vapers get used to it (some don't have it (irritation) at all) and then need more vapour for more satisfaction.

 

[ong.kelvin]

I started off with a Vaporshark DNA 40 with a Nautilus Mini. I went that route because the Vaporshark had room for me to expand to dripping. Currently I am using a mechanical mod with a rebuildable dripping atomizer (RDA). Mech mods remove the variable of controlling the wattage which narrows it down to just building the coil right for my liking.
I suggest a Vaporshark if you think you might want to try dripping. The Evolv DNA chip set is currently the best in my opinion. If you want a high end mod for a tank then a Provari P3 would look sick as ....! Note that the Provari is not suitable for a dripper as it will not fire if your resistance is too low.

 

[turnipshoe]

If money aint a consideration, id really recommend the provape p3 starter kit. it contains the mod that is the p3 itself, a nautilus aspire with adjustable air flow, battery (option to select which one you want), charger and even a 10 ml liquid.

I am extremely happy with my purchase.

 

[gyrex]

OK just a little update. I went into one of the vaping stores in Warsaw and the guys there were super friendly! I ended up buying an Aspire ET-S and a Kanger Mini Protank 3 for my EGO batteries. Awesome upgrades from the stock atomizers which came with the EGO!!!

Unfortunately one of the guys in the store made me try his Kanger kit - argh!!! The price is great and so it looks like I'll be picking one of these up now unless someone can make a better recommendation? Is the Kanger SUBOX a good PV?

 

[gyrex]

Oh and they've convinced me to start building my own coils and make my own juice as well - has anyone got tips on what tools I'll need to do this or is there a comprehensive guide for beginners? Making your own juice seems a lot more economical than buying it pre-made!

 

[David Wolf]

Hi @gyrex and welcome to the forum. I would recommend an iStick 30 watt (2200 mah) mod/battery, and the Aspire Nautilus Mini/full size. Both are user friendly and gives you room to grow into other advanced areas of vape (such as sub ohm and dripping) with just the purchase of another tank down the road.
From a thread I read yesterday I believe the iSmoka eLeaf 30 watt brand is owned by joyetech. I have 2 of the iStick 50W and love them. The Nautilus was my game changer when I wanted to stay off the cigs. Paired with my iStick it was like a guarantee I'd never go back to the analogs. Congrats in your journey and good luck.

iStick 30w & Nautilus Mini

iStick 50W and iStick 30 watt actual size in hand

I second this recommendation and get a silicone sleeve for the Eleaf Istick 30 the smooth metal finish is slippery and the sleeve gives a great grip.

 

[gyrex]

I second this recommendation and get a silicone sleeve for the Eleaf Istick 30 the smooth metal finish is slippery and the sleeve gives a great grip.

They had the iStick 30w in the store but it was a fair bit more expensive than the Kanger. Also, the battery wasn't removable (at least not without using a torx screw by the looks of it) as the Kanger was. What makes the iStick better than the Kanger?

 

[David Wolf]

They had the iStick 30w in the store but it was a fair bit more expensive than the Kanger. Also, the battery wasn't removable (at least not without using a torx screw by the looks of it) as the Kanger was. What makes the iStick better than the Kanger?

I'm not sure which kanger battery you're talking about so I can't compare. I read good reviews about the Eleaf istick30 and bought one with a second nautilus mini. It's small, 2200 mah battery lasts me 2 days at 3 mils a day and it gives me better flavor than the 1000 mah CF VV battery that came with my first nautilus kit, perhaps due to better regulation. I never did like the flavor of the kangertech EMOW dual bottom coils and the battery that came with the kit died after 3 months. If your jumping straight to sub ohms and coil builds good luck I am just recommending a really good portable "fits your pocket" setup the istick30 full kit (charger) was on sale at WORLDofVAPE - Best Vape - Best Price for$30 when I bought it there it was $36 and still a good deal.

 

[Sir2fyablyNutz]

@gyrex, The difference between the iStick with the Nautilus and the Kanger Subbox kit is pretty much 2 issues. The Nautilus is more for mouth to lung vape then the straight lung hitter. The Subtanks are more for the lung hits. I use both every day, but I still mouth to lung. When I got my subtank the first thing I did was to replace the wide bore drip tip with a regular sized small opening cheap drip tip. I also use my subtank on the single hole opening. With Subtanks you're going to vape more e juice (so DIY is the way to consider when you get to this point), which in turn consumes more nicotine and then you have to lower your nic level in the juice. Most sub tank users vape at 6mg or less.

With the subtanks you need to understand how ohms law works and then the coil building stuff (I recoil my stock factory OCC's, it's not really that difficult). The Subbox is nice and I considered getting one until I found out it doesn't have a spring loaded 510 pin. (the pin in the battery where it makes a connection to the tank). Having a spring loaded 510 pin (like the iStick 30 W, and the new iStick 40 TC (temp control)) allows the user to use various tanks without concern, as some people have had issues damaging the 510 connection.

Temp control is the next big thing. Lots of manufacturers are coming out with TC. Basically it is a safety issue that stops the coil from firing when it gets to temps outside the safe range and give you a dry hit. You have a lot of decisions to make and I wish you luck in your vape journey.

 

[gyrex]

@gyrex, The difference between the iStick with the Nautilus and the Kanger Subbox kit is pretty much 2 issues. The Nautilus is more for mouth to lung vape then the straight lung hitter. The Subtanks are more for the lung hits. I use both every day, but I still mouth to lung. When I got my subtank the first thing I did was to replace the wide bore drip tip with a regular sized small opening cheap drip tip. I also use my subtank on the single hole opening. With Subtanks you're going to vape more e juice (so DIY is the way to consider when you get to this point), which in turn consumes more nicotine and then you have to lower your nic level in the juice. Most sub tank users vape at 6mg or less.

With the subtanks you need to understand how ohms law works and then the coil building stuff (I recoil my stock factory OCC's, it's not really that difficult). The Subbox is nice and I considered getting one until I found out it doesn't have a spring loaded 510 pin. (the pin in the battery where it makes a connection to the tank). Having a spring loaded 510 pin (like the iStick 30 W, and the new iStick 40 TC (temp control)) allows the user to use various tanks without concern, as some people have had issues damaging the 510 connection.

Temp control is the next big thing. Lots of manufacturers are coming out with TC. Basically it is a safety issue that stops the coil from firing when it gets to temps outside the safe range and give you a dry hit. You have a lot of decisions to make and I wish you luck in your vape journey.

Thanks for your comprehensive response!

OK, can you please explain what a subtank is and what the alternative is? I saw on the post from David that you can pick up an iStick 40W TC for $36 from WorldOfVape which seems like a bargain. Would this be the best bang for buck for me?

 

[Sir2fyablyNutz]

Here's the TC iStick 40 W in stock :Eleaf iStick TC Temoperature Control Mod - 40W David was posting about the 30 Watt at World of Vape.

It's like there is 2 areas of vape, above ohm and below ohm. Subtanks are tanks that use coils under 1.0 ohm. More power is needed to vape these coils as it takes more to heat them up. Above ohm (Nautilus Mini) uses coils from 1.6 to 2.4 ohm coils. Subtanks will produce more vapor and more flavor as a general rule. The Nautilus is about the best you can vape on BEFORE going into the subtank world. (my opinion)

TC (temp control) is useless without using nickel, titanium and possibly stainless wired coils (regular coils use Kanthal wire). TC units like the iStick will still work with the old (I use Kanthal) wire coils, but will work as temp control with the newer wired coils. There will not be any difference in how you build a coil, just the wire you use. The TC coils are going to cost more than the regular Kanthal wire ones.

If you have a TC mod/battery and use it the old coil way it's fine. If you have a TC and desire to go into the Nickel/titanium coils, then you are ready to just buy a tank or the coils or recoil your own.

As to the best bang for the buck there are a bunch of options. Evic VT 50W, Pioneer is coming out with a IPV D2, IStick has the 40W, etc... Is temp control necessary? I've gotten a few dry hits when I am not paying attention to my juice level in the tank. It would be nice to have, but I can live without it...for now, I have lots of Kanthal to use and don't want to bother buying nickel wire yet.

Internal battery or replaceable battery? Depends on your lifestyle and how often you can recharge I guess. Like I said, you have lots of options and decisions.

Good luck.