Gurgling causes ??

[Tangaroav]

I think we have all experienced it. Gurgling often with liquid carry over into the driptip and in the mouth. Some atomizers are worst than other.

The worst offender of my clearos/tanks/...etc is a carto-tank that I really enjoy using. It becomes a pain in the *** .

The only way I found was to remove the tank, blow out the cartomizer, clean the connection that is always wet following gurgling and the problem is solved, for a while.

What can be done to stop or eliminate gurgling ? What are the causes of gurgling ?

 

[State O' Flux]

What are the causes of gurgling ?

How pressure differential atomizers work.

 

[Susan~S]

What can be done to stop or eliminate gurgling ? What are the causes of gurgling ?

Lack of airflow is the main cause. If you have a protank or mini PT you can solve this problem by replacing your current base (the part of the tank that houses the coil) with one of the new aerobases. This alone makes a HUGE difference in performance.

If you do not have this option, you can do as you are doing or

1. not draw as hard on your clearomizer or
2. tip your battery up in the air (if your coil is flooded) when you are engaging the battery. Do this a few times. This will allow the coil to vaporize some of the excess e-liquid in the flooded chamber without feeding more e-liquid into said chamber.
3. purchase a tank with airflow control

Hope this helps!

 

[Tangaroav]

Thanks for the link . When this pressure differential in 'broken', what could have I done to to break it ? Often I can vape 1 or 2 ml of my tank's 10ml content before gurgling happens. The level in the tank does not seem to matter.

Yes, maybe I am drawing too hard and too fast...

 

[State O' Flux]

Thanks for the link . When this pressure differential in 'broken', what could have I done to to break it ? Often I can vape 1 or 2 ml of my tank's 10ml content before gurgling happens. The level in the tank does not seem to matter.

Yes, maybe I am drawing too hard and too fast...

If your clearos/glassos are fit with "stock standard" coil, with the standard silica wicks and stock air port system (or the same with a carto... but limited to the air ports) yes, they can be "overpowered" with a hard draw.
Ever notice how so many folks complain of their clearos/tanks whatever, have a tight draw? Block one air inlet... and you can overpower the wick/seal to an even greater degree.

When you have, what you perceive to be a tight draw, that's an indication that, for your vaping style, you don't have adequate air flow. When you take a draw, you're "sucking" hard enough (producing enough vacuum) to overcome the wick... in it's function as a seal.

Follow? You draw hard... the air port system can only accommodate so much of that hard draw, with the remaining vacuum being applied to the liquid tank - via the wick and wick cutout. So... more juice than your coil/head & wick can support = flooding/gurgling.

When I started, I was like everyone else. Clearos... then immediately to carto tanks, which I thought, at the time, were the best there is. Then I got my first RBA, and the clearos and carto tanks collected dust.
Air flow, and the power to control wick/coil type/coil resistance/current draw... basically everything... is the reason everyone who wants the best vape they can get, move in that direction.

With glassos/carto tanks, you can enlarge air ports (to a point) with drill bits - your choke points being the air tubes, coil tail retainers, DT and of course... the external, visible, fixed air inlets.

The alternate is to move on to glassos with adjustable air (Kanger Aerotank is reported to have good air flow, and perhaps the best glasso there is, for now)... or on to complete control with rebuildables.

Have fun! ;-)

 

[Tangaroav]

Thank's for the info, they are bit more complex than meet the eye.

 

[Rickajho]

I think we have all experienced it. Gurgling often with liquid carry over into the driptip and in the mouth. Some atomizers are worst than other.

The worst offender of my clearos/tanks/...etc is a carto-tank that I really enjoy using. It becomes a pain in the *** .

The only way I found was to remove the tank, blow out the cartomizer, clean the connection that is always wet following gurgling and the problem is solved, for a while.

What can be done to stop or eliminate gurgling ? What are the causes of gurgling ?

You have to get a little more device specific. Once you get past the general "vacuum, drawing too hard" matter the problems associated with carto tanks - and the fixes - are going to be quite different from the issues with the likes of Kanger BCC clearos etc.

 

[Tangaroav]

The gurgling is bothersome on my 10ml IBtanked 25mm using a Smok pre-drilled XL 45mm carto. This happens with cartos that are fresh or not-so fresh and while the draw is not tight, (normal).

I am not sure if it matters to my gurgling problem, when I vape I chain vape. That's a draw /minute .

 

[Rocketpunk]

..........

 

[Grimwald]

A few questions.
How many holes in your cartos?
What percentage of pg/vg is your liquid?
What kind/brand of cartos?
Do your carto tanks leak when not in use?

As long as all of the o-rings are secure on your IBTanked, you might want to try less in the way of holes or thicker juice. I only have the 19mm tank, and I use 2ohm smoktech cartos with 2 holes...and I open those a bit more with a carto punch. I use 60%pg/40%vg juice. I can leave mine sitting for days without leaking or gurgling. Either your juice is thin...or you are drawing really hard. But those ideas are really stretching it...hey, I'mjust guessing here.

 

[Tangaroav]

They are smok 2ohm xl 45mm flanged pre-punched with two holes, and they never leak, except when while gurgling. I vape 50/50 and usualy at 11W.

 

[Grimwald]

Do they gurgle after sitting for awhile...or just during use?

 

[Baditude]

My initial thoughts on this matter are you are drawing too hard when you vape. I barely suck on my cartotanks when I vape them. A long, gentle draw.

I use the pre-punched Ikenvape Platinum cartos primarily, but I have also used the Smoktech 2-hole pre-punced single coils. I can't say that I have had any flooding issues (gurgling) with either until they were at the end of their life and began to have a stiff draw. At this time the carto is replaced with a new one.

I might suggest that you try some Boge cartos. Their polyfill wick is denser than the Ikenvape or Smoktech cartos, and may be less likely to flood. They will also be more difficult to fill, due to the same density of the wick.

In my experience, some clearos, especially bottom-coils, tend to flood easily if you pull too hard on them. The tiny silica wicks become over-saturated, bringing too much e-liquid to the heating coil. More than it can vaporize at a time. The excess liquid has nowhere to go but into the air chamber, leading to the gurgling, juice into the mouthpiece, or dropping onto the battery connector.

 

[Bunnykiller]

I think we have all experienced it. Gurgling often with liquid carry over into the driptip and in the mouth. Some atomizers are worst than other.

The worst offender of my clearos/tanks/...etc is a carto-tank that I really enjoy using. It becomes a pain in the *** .

The only way I found was to remove the tank, blow out the cartomizer, clean the connection that is always wet following gurgling and the problem is solved, for a while.

What can be done to stop or eliminate gurgling ? What are the causes of gurgling ?

buy a Kayfun or Kayfun clone or an RSST

 

[Tangaroav]

My initial thoughts on this matter is you are drawing too hard when you vape. I barely suck on my cartotanks when I vape them. A long, gentle draw.

I use the pre-punched Ikenvape Platinum cartos primarily, but I have also used the Smoktech 2-hole pre-punced single coils. I can't say that I have had any flooding issues (gurgling) with either until they were at the end of their life and began to have a stiff draw. At this time the carto is replaced with a new one.

I might suggest that you try some Boge cartos. Their polyfill wick is denser than the Ikenvape or Smoktech cartos, and may be less likely to flood. They will also be more difficult to fill, due to the same density of the wick.

In my experience, some clearos, especially bottom-coils, tend to flood easily if you pull too hard on them. The tiny silica wicks become over-saturated, bringing too much e-liquid to the heating coil. More than it can vaporize at a time. The excess liquid has nowhere to go but into the air chamber, leading to the gurgling, juice into the mouthpiece, or dropping onto the battery connector.

Very good advice, Thank you

 

[tchavei]

A little too late but here's my contribution:

I'm not that sure its only about draw and airflow. I have an aerotank mini and a protank 3 mini. The aerotank, which has an air flow control valve, gurgles pretty easily even when the airflow is set to maximum. The "inferior" protank 3 (same as aerotank but no airflow control valve) never gurgles on me. I've put two stock "upgraded" Kanger dual coils 1.5Ohms on both of them at the same time and the aerotank keeps gurgling on while the protank 3 is perfect. The aerotank is even mounted on a more powerful setup eventhough I use both at a fixed wattage of 10W and I'm using the same liquid from the same bottle for 48h now.

The only explanation I can find is that probably the coil I put in the aerotank is somehow built worse than the one I put on the protank. The only thing left ist to "swap" the coils between the tanks and see if the protank starts gurgling and the aerotank stopps...

Regards
Tony

 

[Tangaroav]

You may be right; once I changed the carto on my tank, all gurgling stopped and has not reappered while I vaped about 25 ml from the same carto in the tank.

This may indicate that some of my cartos where not vaporizing the liquid properly. Although as I said above, I seemed to experience flooding with cartos that had seen little use, maybe they were dirty/faulty....etc.

 

[Newportlocal]

Some clearomizers were so annoying I rid myself of them. My Kangers seemed better. I just made sure the replaceable atomizer head was on reasonably tight. If I had an issue I would blow the juice out into a napkin or paper towel. My IBT tanks didn't have any issues with gurgling/leaking etc. I would put a plastic fork tine in the hole at the top of the carto when I added juice and thermometer shaked it. Then,I would use a slap yo momma tool when I was adding carto to tank and filling tank. The carto setup was the least hassle and most consistent other than replacing cartos. Now that I am using a kayfun for around town I can't go back. Btw I have always done power lung draws on all my devices. If I can't vape that way I don't want to bother. Don't know if my ramblings were of use to you. : )

 

[D. Waterhouse]

Another issue with bottom coil tanks is condensation. If you leave vapor in the tube it'll condense in the tube and cause gurgling. Let off the fire button just before you finish the draw to clear the tube.

 

[tchavei]

Well... in the name of science, I swaped the coils between my tanks and guess what... now they both gurgle...

I got tired of this and went for an old style head, ripped it apart, rebuild it with dual coils and three 3mm silica wicks and all is well for the aerotank now... been chain vaping it for 30 minutes and no gurgle. Going to leave it during the night standing and see if tomorrow morning it doesn't gurgle.

On the mPT3 and mAT, the origin of most gurgling are those damm heads. The new style heads are worse because if the internal wicks aren't perfectly aligned with those holes or become dislodged during vaping, they will start gurgle and you can't do anything besides swaping them out or rebuilding as an old style... and the problem is to get ahold of those top and bottom grommets because those will wear out after 3 or 4 rebuilds (especially the lower one).

Regards
Tony