Gurgling ? Try this

[vince01]

Before I start I should say that all my toppers take the Protank type single element heating coil

I've found that most gurgling is caused by condensation running down the air tube and settling on top of the heater chimney

I fix that by pushing a pipe cleaner or a piece of twisted kitchen roll down the tube till it touches the top of the chimney

and leaving it a few seconds to soak the goop up

Flooding into the coil chamber I've found is mostly caused by ill fitting stock coils that leave too much of a gap in the slot above the wick

this can usually be fixed by removing the heating unit from the topper and taking off the chimney and grommet and laying a couple

of strands of wicking material (not full wicks) on top of the stock coil

Some other causes of flooding into the coil are storing your topper on its' side, and letting the juice level get too low (below one third full)

which breaks the partial vacuum in your tank

 

[twall]

Thanks! Tips are always helpful, especially to newbies.

My Protank II coils already have a second wick on top of the coil (I believe the actual term is a "flavor wick"). I had an atty once that had an interesting mistake. They'd put an o-ring (the same one used in the bottom of the atty) around the larger chimney area, against the wick, then they put the regular seal on. You can remove that flavor wick and have less dry hits and better vapor production, then take an o-ring from the base of an old atty and take up the gap with it.

If you're careful, you can pluck out the original silica wick out of the coil with tweezers, and replace it with a rolled cotton one. I just did that yesterday. No more gurgling or dry hits, even after it's sat on its' side. Tastes better, too. I'm going to try using a 3/32" drill bit to wrap a new coil for it next time, and see if I can stuff a little fatter wick in there (original coil is 1/16").

 

[DaveP]

I've discovered that to be true here in the humid Southeast. Top coil tanks don't have that problem, but I prefer a bottom coil tank.

 

[danny4x4]

3/32 bit would be too big to fit into the slots. You can install the coil without the bit in place, but it would be easier to just use a 1/16 bit which fits into the slot nicely.

 

[twall]

Actually, for the kanger coils (did 2) it was easiest to load the coil with a wick, and then slide the "assembly" in place. I'm thinking this approach will work for 3/32. It's only 1/32 bigger, and it's only cotton, so I'll try it and see.

 

[danny4x4]

Actually, for the kanger coils (did 2) it was easiest to load the coil with a wick, and then slide the "assembly" in place. I'm thinking this approach will work for 3/32. It's only 1/32 bigger, and it's only cotton, so I'll try it and see.

I get it. We each have our own ways of coiling and assembly which we find easiest. Whichever works for you is the best way.

 

[Alien Traveler]

Most of my clearos have protank coils also (rebuilt or rewicked). I never observe rule "1/3 full", most of the time they are lying flat on the table, sometimes they travel upside-down. No gurgling. OK, may be once a week...
I believe wicks are important.

 

[DaveP]

Gurgling on a Kayfun usually means experiencing the bitter taste of nic. On a Protank it's usually more of a weak version from condensation rather than actual full flavor juice pops. In humid climates it's pretty much unavoidable, like the moisture drops that appear on a coffee carafe from steam.

I use the same pipe cleaner or twisted towel method for either to cure it. I just view it as necessary maintenance.

 

[twall]

^^^What he said.

I've noticed on tanks and clearos also, sometimes what we think is a coil gurgle is actually the condensation between the tip and the top of the tank. My Protank II and Nautilus Mini are famous for this. Pop the tip off, a little cleanup with a Q-tip, and the gurgle is gone.

Chain vaping doesn't help this phenomena.