GUS LORD Telescopic Mod : Pictorial

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qorax

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FIY there are also G22 models with Lord finish, just received one in 18650 (#72)
It's essentially a non telescoping Lord AFAIK.

One thing to keep in mind about those: you can't use the nemesis pin in place of the fuse since once you have screwed the pin to make contact with the atomizer you don't have anything to compensate for battery size (I reckon you telescope the Lord and the Kiss to compensate, didn't think about that.)

BTW I've had the switch negative contact screw break inside the button while unscrewing the switch (a new one is on its way free of charge.)
It seems this is a frequent occurence, I stumbled on a GUS thread on a french forum where 3 users reported the same problem.
So, i'd advise to be very gentle if you unscrew the switch, just in case...

Yep, Gus has a lot wasted space inside their tubes - thanks to a super long Pos Pin design. The reason why many of us chose their Telescopic mods instead. Toss the Pos Pin off and set things right!
 

dspin

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So after a little over a week waiting, I finally got added to the group where the list was up for the Lord Special Edition. UGH... Just missed this beauty by few days it looks like. Any how, I do love my lord but he definitely needed an all SS brother.

About the Lord SE WK, it looks a little taller. I believe I saw a picture with both of them side by side with the regular lord being telescoped a bit while the SE wasn't at all, however their height looked the same. Pictures can be deceiving though. Does anyone know if they designed it to be completely collapsed with a 18500 battery or am I just delirious and seeing things?

I hope everyone that got in on the SE models enjoy them as much as I enjoy my Gus Lord.


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To make them even in closed mode - 1 button locked , the other is not

How far they are open in 18500 mode depends on battery used and also type of top connector used. Anything from the fuse to Paps or Caravela pins
 
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Mechm0djunky

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For anyone taking apart the Lord or Kiss button - and you will have to take it apart someday - 3mm hex in bottom and I think I used an 8mm nut driver. Pretty sure it was the 8mm head

Thanks, I haven't attempted it yet but was curious what sizes they were.
 
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aage

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For anyone taking apart the Lord or Kiss button - and you will have to take it apart someday - 3mm hex in bottom and I think I used an 8mm nut driver. Pretty sure it was the 8mm head

Be CAREFUL taking it apart, there are TINY roller bearings in the switch and they can get lost, so best to take a big bowl or something like that and put the switch in there , keep it there while disassembling , then you won't loose the roller bearings. Belive me they are TINY maybe 1,5mm diameter.
 

ColoradoVapz

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Be CAREFUL taking it apart, there are TINY roller bearings in the switch and they can get lost, so best to take a big bowl or something like that and put the switch in there , keep it there while disassembling , then you won't loose the roller bearings. Belive me they are TINY maybe 1,5mm diameter.

I concur on being careful. My switch was dirty and starting to stick a couple months ago, so it was time to clean. I was positive I was going to loose one, but turned out I didn't! I used some organic beeswax Chapstick to get them back in place and stay. Just ran the Chapstick around the rim with slight pressure to fill in the empty holes. Worked pretty well. Still going strong. I guess I've been cleaner now cause I haven had to redo it. But I was in the process of moving then and doing some remodeling.
 
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cracoucax

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I also concur since the second time I opened my G22 switch i was not careful enough and the ball ring literally jumped out of the switch. The tiny, tiny balls rebounded on the table and flew everywhere, i lost most since my floor is old style parquet with holes everywhere...
My recommendation is to dismount on top of a fat towel, to absorb the energy of the rebound. Because those things rebound like crazy, even from a very small height. I did it several times on top of a towel and it worked wonder when a ball dropped.

And as i said before be very gentle when screwing and unscrewing the switch. The negative screw is very fragile and can easily break inside the button if you apply too much force. Just screw enough so that it's snug and you shouldn't have a problem.
 
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cracoucax

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Thanks Q used this one before, great reference if like me you're too dumb to take photos while disassembling...

It's hard to see but i think he places the spring the wrong direction around though, from what i saw on other videos the smallest side of spring should be facing the button. Makes sense if you look at how it all fits together.
 

qorax

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Thanks Q used this one before, great reference if like me you're too dumb to take photos while disassembling...

It's hard to see but i think he places the spring the wrong direction around though, from what i saw on other videos the smallest side of spring should be facing the button. Makes sense if you look at how it all fits together.

Yep, looks like he placed the spring inverted for sure Sylvain.
 

Bimini Twist

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Well, he must have done that when assembling mine the first time. I took it apart before seeing this video and my spring was oriented just like that - wide end towards the button.

I don't recall noticing any scratches and I definitely don't hear any crunching sounds. Just smooth as all get out. I did apply some DeoxIT lube, though - just to keep things clean & lubed.

Well, to tell the truth, the DeoxIT wasn't entirely just to keep things clean & lubed. It was because I wasn't aware the ball bearings weren't trapped in the ring. After running all the switch parts under warm water (in a strainer) I noticed all the balls had come out. I almost panicked, too. Let's see, x number of holes and x number of balls. No wait! Was that x holes and y balls? Count again, again, again. Ok, I'm sure I have all of them.

It was a challenge getting the balls back in place, but just a little of that DeoxIT was enough to keep them there 'til I could reassemble.
 

BuzzKilla

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yup, i had that happen after my first "cleaning"....

some vaseline is what is used by GUS if i am not mistaken.

tried that dry carbon stuff.... it didnt work as well so i had to do another full tear down.

buttery smooth the first week, but once the oil from your hands gets in there.... it's just gunk!
 

qorax

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The Gus KNIGHT-SE
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For the view (of the location!)

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The mid-Ring

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The Switch

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The Top-cap

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BOTTOMLINE: It is very much the Gus-LORD but in all SS, including the button. This has one important tweak tho ~ It is made for 18500 batteries now! All pics above are in 18500 mode with an Efest 18500IMR inside. With the LORD we had to telescope the mod a bit for 18500, no more! In perfectly closed* position it fits the 500 batts now.
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*You may notice a slight telescoping in the pics, that's because the Efest is a 'button top'. With my 'flat top' 18500s it is flush.
 
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